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Line correct on CS pulley but with the arrows correct the line is not even near the CS pulley, I have started another thread on this issue, all for today, Rick
 

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Cover on and all new belts, however a new problem has arisen, since doing the cam belt my courtesy lights do not work I can switch them on manually but none of the doors now work, the only thing I have done electrically is disconnect and reconnect the battery, is this something strange to Patrols? or have I to go hunting? Rick
 

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Well done with the repair jobs Rick.

I think it’ll be a door switch surely, maybe door being opened and closed a lot.
 
Nice one Rick!

I'd look at the switches first as well, or possibly a fuse?
 
Funny isn't it they were working great before I started the cam belt, cos I left the rear door open and it flattened the battery so put it on charge a day or so prior to the belt job, now nothing but the manual switch on the lights works fine:confused: can all door switches fail at the same time? no I think it must be to do with the timer unit cos when it is working the lights do not go out when you close the door, ah but on a Patrol where is it? Rick
 
:lol its a whole new world Rick, barrbeast is your man though, he's very clued up on most things patrol. But yes I would say it was one faulty component affecting the lights, do have an owners manual?, it might be a feature that can be turned on or off with a sequence of some kind, you know like ign on-foot on brake-rub your knee and say beetlejuice thre times :nenau
 
Thank's guys much appreciated, new motor new learning curve, but love it to bits, Rick
 
Are your map/vanity mirror lights working Rick?
They share fuse no.20 (10amp) with the courtesy lights for info.
Looking through wiring diagrams now.....
 
Actually Rick, I've just remembered...the rear barn door that carries the spare can sometimes upset door light switching. Perhaps check your new drawer work hasn't disturbed something.
Interior lights are earthed to chassis in that area to.
Just a thought.
D
 
All sorted, both OS door switches were bad, had spares so sorted, the rear has a aftermarket LED cluster and it needs touching to get it to work, although I did not need to do that initialy so just need to look into the operation of this little gismo, other than that all sorted and ready for chane over tomorrow, apart from oil and filter change etc as no delivery due to "snow" FFS what efin snow, Rick
 
Frost, just a frost.
But tomorrow we get 18" of proper snow dumped on The Moor....:clap
I'm enjoying the proper mechanics in your project Rick.
 
OK so been out and about today in a variety of conditions, first a trip to Hastings for a burst pipe, went the new bypass route and gave it some welly hit 80 no problem but on the overrun slowing down gradually at around 60 got front wheel vibration, did not do it on the way up, only down so is this the front end vibe that is supposed to be fixed with shims? if so how, next I collected a couple of tonne of logs on the car trailer, and chose to return via some ungritted virgin snow back roads and have to say without doubt the T2 would have performed better, first the Troll lacked low down grunt, it is dead till 1800 revs and when I lost rear wheel traction up a small incline engaged 4 wheel and unlike the T2 which just spins the front wheels the Troll jumps on the front, so can I improve low down grunt if so how, and is the jumping a characteristic of the solid axle or do I need to be looking at a fault some place? Rick
 
OK so been out and about today in a variety of conditions, first a trip to Hastings for a burst pipe, went the new bypass route and gave it some welly hit 80 no problem but on the overrun slowing down gradually at around 60 got front wheel vibration, did not do it on the way up, only down so is this the front end vibe that is supposed to be fixed with shims? if so how, next I collected a couple of tonne of logs on the car trailer, and chose to return via some ungritted virgin snow back roads and have to say without doubt the T2 would have performed better, first the Troll lacked low down grunt, it is dead till 1800 revs and when I lost rear wheel traction up a small incline engaged 4 wheel and unlike the T2 which just spins the front wheels the Troll jumps on the front, so can I improve low down grunt if so how, and is the jumping a characteristic of the solid axle or do I need to be looking at a fault some place? Rick

MAF Amp? :nenau
 
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