OK, let's talk about ‘Power Distribution’ for a minute.
In an effort not to have to many wires all over the car, I opted to run 7-core trailer wire to the roof rack. All the way thru I've made an effort to keep the colour of the wires in order so that when I connect them to the relays and in turn the switches, I don't get confused.
White - Front Lights
Blue - Rear Lights
Green - Right Light
Red - Left Light
Black - Ground
Brown & Yellow - Not used on the roof
With 4 sets of lights on my roof rack, (Front, Back, Left & Right) I wanted a way to neatly operate them all without a huge mess of individual relays and wires thrown around the engine bay.
A ‘Distribution Box’ of ‘D-Box’ was my solution!
Here’s a picture of D-Box Mk I… The components I used were too big, it too messy and because it was crammed into a box it had a nasty habit of shorting itself.
In the bin it went…
Onto Mk II
The less said about Mk II the better…
Onto Mk III
I couldn't get the components any more compact if I tried!
First off I got 4x Fused Relays and fitted them with 20Amp fuses.
I then taped them together to make my life a little easier...
Then I attached the power wires (red) to terminal 30, the ground wires (blue) to terminal 85 and cropped them to the same size.
Next I used more 7-core and attached the relevant colours to the relevant relays. (It doesn't actually matter which relay, so long as you join the same colour wire to the same relay)
Lights go to terminal 87 & the switches go to terminal 86.
Also I took the ground (black) from both lots of 7-core and taped them to the original blue ground wires off the relays…
From the 7-core marked up for lights, you will have the yellow & brown wire spare, tape them up or cut them off.
The 7-core that heads towards the switches, only the brown is not used. I used the yellow to power the illuminated switches. I used a 2Amp in-line fuse between the main bulk of red power wires and the yellow wire...
For the next part of this build, there's a number of ways you can go... I guess it will really depend on how much space you have in your chosen box. I'm using an outside junction box, I plan for a nice tight fit. I didn't want it crammed like MKI, but I also don't want it all rattling around inside knocking connections off!
We need to join all the positives to each other, and the same with the ground. You could twist all the wires together or copper crimp them... But I've chose to use Wago Lever Connectors.
Unlike crimping them, I can add or remove wires easily... And at this stage, if your not using this type of connector,then you're not ready to bind them together until you have a long wire ready for ground and another with an in- line fuse for the positive.
Because I could only get 5 lever versions, I had to bridge two together for the ground and positive.
But once done, it's a nice looking and simple solution.
Now it's time for a test fit... Make sure you can get all of the wires in place before we get the drill out!
Four holes need to be drilled into your box. Lights, Switches, Power, Ground.
Then it's just a case of feeding your wires thru the holes. Its at this point, if you're not using the same lever connectors as me and have chose to copper crimp the wires together, your power and earth can be joined.
It's also a good idea to put a zip tie around any wires leaving the box. If there tugged, it'll just give a little extra support and stop connections inside the box being compromised!
Now just feed it all into the box and tuck away the spare wires if you decided not to cut them... They could be handy for illuminating and/or grounding another bank of switches.
Put the lid on and call it good!
As the lights on the roof and the switches in the cab use 7-Core, I decided to connect it all with proper connector plugs rather than individual bullet connectors or spades!