oh dear

[Muckypup]

joe it is called a cloth lol

A cloth wont remove the bits that fall down between your valve springs and then get pumped around your engine in the oil...

Good luck sorting it, hope you get sorted mate. As mentioned I now think its time for a technition to give it a proper looking at and diagnose your issue. Could save a lot of time and messing about...
If you cant afford a technition to look at it then I think your answer is pretty obvious... an engine swap would be totally uneconomical and a virtual impossibility to do yourself on the front street.

 

[kbekl]

its not about affording to have someone look at it, the local garage is £35 per hour to look over the car and it would have to be local

so that would be £35 for them to say drive it till it breaks on this age of car as that is the exact result i got from them the last time

the next garage would be £40 per hour and then it would take them 2hrs to lift the bonnet

i can go further out and they are better but for them to turn arround and say its terminal then thats just a waste of money when i could have just changed the engine

i dont mind spending money but i dont put it down the drain to be honest

it is starting to look like their will be either a new engine in the car or a new car

the problem is looking at cars the discos do travel well on the tarmac at speed limits and these dont like to do that

its the same as the insurance thing with having 2 car's if the wife could drive not a problem but she cant so it means paying out twice for everything and only using 1 at a time

 

[Muckypup]

And you were calling my local garages!!!!!! :lol

Like I said, my locals do not charge for telling you what is wrong with it, just for fixing!
Diagnostics is a different ball game, thats £70 a plug in but you dont need a plug in!

Seems to me like your answering your own questions...

 

[kbekl]

And you were calling my local garages!!!!!! :lol

Like I said, my locals do not charge for telling you what is wrong with it, just for fixing!
Diagnostics is a different ball game, thats £70 a plug in but you dont need a plug in!

Seems to me like your answering your own questions...

its not just your locals lol it all northern garages

i was talking about the cornish garages then they were great they would take it in and look and spend a couple of hours poking arround then come back and charge you £20 and tell you that it is broke lol

 

[Muckypup]

its not just your locals lol it all northern garages

Completely disagree!

My garage would have taken it in, told me what is wrong with it, provide a quote to fix it and then ask if I would like them to go ahead with the repairs...

But then my local garages are cowboys that apparently I should remind folk not to go near! Even though one technition has been tuning engines for 40 years, another building rally engines for 20 years for the Peugeot world rally team (they also put him through his apprenticeship) and their diagnostics guy has been rallying internationally for 15 years and can tell you whats wrong with your car just from the rattles and knocks its making

Like I said i'd have taken it to them if it were mine and i'd now know what would be the most economical solution

 

[extreme-4x4]

we never did the tappets when we had the head off and 2 are a bit loose and always have been so its has always sounded like a taxi

the vid of the rocker
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<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/rk6irn5UrHk?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="385" width="640"></object>

just to make matters worse the nocking rattle has now gone lol


i hate this car lol

i think you will keep hating it unless you start doing and checking the things we keep telling you to look at.

if we need to know the valves are all ok , we will also need to know they are working right and the tappets are set.

if not you will get oil burning poor running more loud noises as things expand with heat and if a valve remains open when its supposed to be closed .... well you know the outcome.

i gave you a list of free things to try , so try them fully

did you check for pressure from the water rad top ?

pressure from the oil filler ?

your missing crucial info for diagnosis , giving up is easy, not throwing your money into an engine for the fun of it . is the hard bit.

 

[kbekl]

But then my local garages are cowboys that apparently I should remind folk not to go near! Even though one technition has been tuning engines for 40 years, another building rally engines for 20 years for the Peugeot world rally team (they also put him through his apprenticeship) and their diagnostics guy has been rallying internationally for 15 years and can tell you whats wrong with your car just from the rattles and knocks its making

Like I said i'd have taken it to them if it were mine and i'd now know what would be the most economical solution

i dont recall calling any garage a cowboy or person if i did i dont recall y

 

[kbekl]

i think you will keep hating it unless you start doing and checking the things we keep telling you to look at.

if we need to know the valves are all ok , we will also need to know they are working right and the tappets are set.

if not you will get oil burning poor running more loud noises as things expand with heat and if a valve remains open when its supposed to be closed .... well you know the outcome.

i gave you a list of free things to try , so try them fully

did you check for pressure from the water rad top ?

pressure from the oil filler ?

your missing crucial info for diagnosis , giving up is easy, not throwing your money into an engine for the fun of it . is the hard bit.

i think i am at about give up point on this one tbh

id also be looking at anything hitting the fan, dirty electric connections, clean every one pull out and check fuses are clean (one at a time ) clean all live and earths.

check fuel lines for weeping

nothing hitting fan
all electric conectors are clean internally outside dirty tho
fuses are clean and not broke inside engine and drivers pannel
fuel lines are new and fine no fuel leaks in the engine bay or under the car

their seems to be no water in the oil the next step would be to drain it
radiator is fine no extra pressure in pipes and no bubbles in the header and no coolant loss in header or radiator

belts are undamaged and working as they should

vacuum seems to be fine no light on dash for the brakes

brakes are fine work as they normally did

engine slow to start ticks over fine with excessive blue smoke, rattle seems to only be their when warm, engine will do the full rev range, oil to the turbo is coming from the breather pipe on top of the rocker ????

drive is fine no difference their gears and clutch working as they normally do

power steering fine and heater is working fine (this also played up when hgf)


all other fluid in the car is fine

oil in the engine hasn't rissen and hasn't dropped that much

i will get some feeler gauges and do the tappets next then

 

[Muckypup]

i dont recall calling any garage a cowboy or person if i did i dont recall y

It wasnt you mate, it was another member in the thread about my Maverick
I actually took quite a lot of offence to it, as I have serious respect for the experts I know and value their opinions as they have a lot more experience in the trade than me

Not to worry though, just hope you can get sorted without much more hassle

 

[kbekl]

right just got back from picking kids up and it is raining again but the good news is i now have a feeler gage now do you just use the 1 piece or do you have to build the gauge up with the others that are smaller than it ??

looks like i will have to do tappets tomorrow

 

[extreme-4x4]

once we know the tappets are working and right. we can move on to other stuff.
comp test kit you must be able to hire,

you have a lot of oil in the air intake considering you have just changed the turbo and had a clean up .

have you inspected the black plastic on inner wing to see you have a clear air way. my guess is with that much oil. your sucking oil in the air.
possible causes .
blocked airway
head damage
valve settings wrong

try disconnecting the oil breather into the air line. see if its blowing oil out or the air is sucking oil in .

we are getting there stick with it

 

[extreme-4x4]

right just got back from picking kids up and it is raining again but the good news is i now have a feeler gage now do you just use the 1 piece or do you have to build the gauge up with the others that are smaller than it ??

looks like i will have to do tappets tomorrow

which ever is the right size

 

[kbekl]

once we know the tappets are working and right. we can move on to other stuff.
comp test kit you must be able to hire,

you have a lot of oil in the air intake considering you have just changed the turbo and had a clean up .

have you inspected the black plastic on inner wing to see you have a clear air way. my guess is with that much oil. your sucking oil in the air.
possible causes .
blocked airway
head damage
valve settings wrong

try disconnecting the oil breather into the air line. see if its blowing oil out or the air is sucking oil in .

we are getting there stick with it

the oil wasnt coming out of the header tank but the turbo wasnt fitted back on

the engine is running really lumpy with out the turbo makes a sort of wogga sound when reving

i will go and get the turbo back on and take it for a spin

just went for a run with no filter on next to no smoke and power was their so might be a blocked filter

 

[kbekl]

found out what the starting problem is its the battery, it is discharging so looks like the new alternator isnt working

the air filter isnt blocked i have had that out and checked,

the car runs almost fine with out the breather pipe in place but still isnt on full power and the enigne is still smoking it won let me go past 3500rpm on motorway

the noise hasnt come back but cant do any more as the battery is now flat lol

if i unplug the battery wilst the car is ticking over then the engine should keep running, well thats what i thought any way

i took the battery + off and the car stalls,

 

[rustic]

If you turn the ignition off, your engine stops, it as if the 12 volts is off....
Why would you expect it to keep running if there is no 12 volts?
Is there a fuel shut off valve that needs power?i

 

[kbekl]

If you turn the ignition off, your engine stops, it as if the 12 volts is off....
Why would you expect it to keep running if there is no 12 volts?
Is there a fuel shut off valve that needs power?i

i thought the alternator kept the 12volts running just the battery light came on

 

[geoffdown]

found out what the starting problem is its the battery, it is discharging so looks like the new alternator isnt working

the air filter isnt blocked i have had that out and checked,

the car runs almost fine with out the breather pipe in place but still isnt on full power and the enigne is still smoking it won let me go past 3500rpm on motorway

the noise hasnt come back but cant do any more as the battery is now flat lol

if i unplug the battery wilst the car is ticking over then the engine should keep running, well thats what i thought any way

i took the battery + off and the car stalls,

hope u didnt disconted the bat with engine running as i would have thought that would f**k the alternator as the alternator will burn it self out but not to sure and engine wont run with no bat as it needs the 12v to keep the stop solanoid from shuting off the fuel thats how u stop a diesel hope this helps.

 

[solarman216]

hope u didnt disconted the bat with engine running as i would have thought that would f**k the alternator as the alternator will burn it self out but not to sure and engine wont run with no bat as it needs the 12v to keep the stop solanoid from shuting off the fuel thats how u stop a diesel hope this helps.

Disconnecting the battery with engine running is not normally a problem, the whole car is running on the alternator anyway, the battery is only receiving a charge to keep it topped up, popular misconception, Rick

 

[geoffdown]

Disconnecting the battery with engine running is not normally a problem, the whole car is running on the alternator anyway, the battery is only receiving a charge to keep it topped up, popular misconception, Rick

oh ok never new that i thought it would over charge till it cooked the voltage reg learn something new everyday:lol

 

[rustic]

Disconnecting the battery with engine running is not normally a problem, the whole car is running on the alternator anyway, the battery is only receiving a charge to keep it topped up, popular misconception, Rick

I would have thought that the battery would stabilise the voltage to set limits, so that it would absorb surges. Without the battery, switching on the headlights would cause the voltage to drop, seen as a negative spike before the alternator/regulator trys to supply more voltage.
If you then switch off the headlights, there will be a positive spike, as the alternator/ regulator over compensates.

These spikes can damage delicate electronics, the battery even in poor condition will act as a capacitor in a power supply, averaging the changes.
Thus keeping a smooth dc supply.

If the load exceeds the capacity of the alternator, the voltage will be well down.

Just because they can run, doesn't mean that equipment cannot be damaged.
Spikes sometimes damage the delicate static sensitive electronic components that eventually show up as a premature failure down the line.

Personally I wouldn't do it.
It's ok for the lawn mower and outboard engine, and diesel gennies, but not ecu's etc.