My new off roader

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looks like you are getting in some serious rough terrain in the landie looks well sorted have fun enjoy 8) :lol:
 
cameraman said:
I feel like I'm getting somewhere now. Its lifted and stood on bigger rubber, Insa special traks at 32". Probably going to have to cut the arches and rock sliders back a bit to get full articulation which means fitting rubber arches so more expense :roll:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/Rocky2.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/Rocky1.jpg
Looks like you should have bought a landie lightweight to fit them tyres in?????? :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Them tyres are going out to play in just a few hours time :lol: So I'll soon know if I've spent wisely and need the body cutting.
 
Well I've had to cut the body back substantially.
Was dead worried about cutting into them but once started, fine. Managed to keep crud guards in place on fronts too and packed gaps with silicone. More worried about the rear with it being 5 door but again once started I just went with the flow.

On back arches and doors cut away the metal at the back of door and bent alloy door around it, then sealed the lot with silicone, dunno if it'll keep the water out yet, time will tell.

To be honest if I hadn't already bought the arches I would just leave then as they are cos for an off roader and not a family car I think it looks Ok ish.

After the cut, before the arch fitted:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2692.jpg

Arch fitted, not fitting bottom bit, gonna try something differant :wink:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2694.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2698.jpg

Rear before:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2693.jpg

and after cut, but still plastic arch to cut and fit:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2699.jpg
Just got the tiding round them to do now and then the bottom panels and door bottoms, of which i have another idea. Did a series of pics if anyone interested in cutting the same way.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2703.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2704.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2705.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2706.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2707.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2708.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2709.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/theonlycameraman/IMG_2710.jpg

I wouldn't imagine it would be much differant to cut back a Nissan
 
did you use neutral cure silicone? or the stuff that smells of vinegar? as the older sort that gives off acid as it sets will eat through your metal work in no time! I have seen it corrode through lead flashing!

looks a nice tidy job, well done!
 
PLANK said:
did you use neutral cure silicone? or the stuff that smells of vinegar? as the older sort that gives off acid as it sets will eat through your metal work in no time! I have seen it corrode through lead flashing!

looks a nice tidy job, well done!

Thanks Chris.

The older stuff that smells of vinegar, its alloy body so I'm hoping it'll be Ok
 
cameraman said:
The older stuff that smells of vinegar, its alloy body so I'm hoping it'll be Ok

You may be in more trouble than if it was steel. Alluminium is more reactive that iron/steel, it is usually protected buy the anodising/oxidation on the outside but both acids and alkalis remove this layer to expose bare metal. Time will tell I suppose, the stuff you needed is sold as RTV silicon.
 
look out for white powdery residues, as Humingbird says it can be worse on non ferrous metals. if you go to any good building or roofing merhcants and ask for neuutral cure silicone, they will supply it at no real increase in cost as it is now widely used as it is the only thing for using where any metal work is concerned, I keep a stock of a few different colours and i only buy neutral cure as you can use ot for anything.

It used to be exspensive and only for lead flashing and sticking mirrors on but now it is about the same price!

your other option for water proff sealing is acrylic sealer, not quite as durable as silicone, but you can overpaint it easily (unlike silicone) and it doesnt corrode metal as fcar as i am aware.
 
wouldnt have thought hell be too worried bought it to save where tear on maverick off road never gonna be entered in concourse shows lol!
 
a very valid pint jace, i suppose it just depends how long he plans to keep it!

It may be a short cut to the next tme the arches need cutting back :wink:
 
I may have to review it all then as i spent some £20 on sealant at £2.00 a tube from towsure. Thought I'd done a real good job too :roll:
 
10 tubes you mustve glued back end landy together with stuff lol youll be high kite as it gives off its fumes lol
 
Wacked it into void between plastic and metal to make it spring back rather than crack when hit......or so the theory goes :roll:
 
I wish I hadn't mentioned it now, just forget it and carry on, if it does happen it will probably take a long time so worry about it when it happens!

and get out there and enjoy yourself in it!
 
cameraman said:
Wacked it into void between plastic and metal to make it spring back rather than crack when hit......or so the theory goes :roll:
Be bouncing off the rocks then mate :lol: :lol:
 

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