Lucinda

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The first box of majic is a maf amp. Which from reading some old posts i think was made by ray. Never installed by Perelaar and now I have a tuneit not by me. :D
Will get it up for sale as im sure somebody can make good use of it.
 
The first box of majic is a maf amp. Which from reading some old posts i think was made by ray. Never installed by Perelaar and now I have a tuneit not by me. :D
Will get it up for sale as im sure somebody can make good use of it.

How much please? I'd love one!!!
 
Heres where she is today. After a session of spirited driving shall we say ive developed a nice clunk from the drivers side when turning and the shock moving up and down.
Got a lil bit if time last night to take a look.
 

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That reminds me I need to check the drop lonks on the project truck, they’ve been on two years now so can’t be far behind that one.:doh
 
I jacked the car up. Put a block and second jack under the front suspension then with a crow bar I was abl to pop the joint in and out.
Is this the rose joint? I have read some post where some of you guys have installed better versions with grease nipples. I know it attaches to the arb but unsure of the name
 

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Anti Roll Bar Link or Drop Link, that’s a standard version. Rose Joints are the uprated version, do a google rose joint and you’ll see what they look like.
 
Anti Roll Bar Link or Drop Link, that’s a standard version. Rose Joints are the uprated version, do a google rose joint and you’ll see what they look like.

Indeed we do :naughty

They are way stronger than the original ones, I'm still on the set you can see pictured in the link below;
http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=306683&postcount=254

If you want a set knocking up, I have all the links save to all of the individual bit's you'll need to buy :thumb2
 
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Spent quite a while under the car this weekend. I cleared the garage to work out of the elements only to discover the roof bars prevent me from reversing it in. :D luckily the gates and surround are wooden so that will be another job for the future.
With this I have to work under it on the floor as myo drive is on a slight slope and I dont own any decent ramps so by the time I was finished I was covered in paint and stinking old diesel/veg.
Cut out all the old fuel lines and removed them from tank to engine. Was left with this pile at the end.
 

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Clipped the two hoses together then used the existing clips on the chassis rail to clip it down.
 

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Nice and secure at tank end. Excuse the cat litter i had spilt oil all over the place and was on a clean up.
I did notice that the old veg oil in the copper pipe that was the fuel pipe, had reacted and was now a lovely green color. So mayb something to watch for if you use copper.
I was going to grab a picture of it but managed to kick the container down the drive before I had a chance.
 

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Did find a few crusty areas on inspection. Took a screwdriver and hammer to the worst. Few areas on the body to tackle but I did manage to put a hole in the chassis rail at one point. Probably will be an area of 40mm x 40mm when its all chopped up and cleaned out. Its luckily on the bottom face of the rail so should be easy to sort. :augie This coming from someone who cant even weld standing with clean metal on the bench. :D
 
Lovely, super, smashing!!

Just when we all thought the forum was dying a death and actually people have just been that hard at it they haven't been able to post.

I'm glad you ripped all the copper out!!!! I checked my Kunnifer the other day and that hasn't started to turn colours or anything :thumb2
 
Don't want to criticise your work at all mate but just an observation and a lesson I've already learned the hard way before, I wouldn't use Posi-Drive headed bolts to hold the sender unit into the tank, I promise you next time you need to go in there you'll be cursing yourself!!!!

Get yourself some proper Hex Headed ones to save the agro next time around.

I think they are M5 5mm or something so I just grabbed some of these in 10mm and snipped the ends off :cool:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-M5-M6-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
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Great job, have to admit I left my old pipes and have often thought that I’d like to remove and replace with kunnifer but that’s for ron, lateron :lol

As Banshee says it’s great to see people working on their trucks.
 
Not much oppourtunity to work on the beast this weekend. Shes had a brand new screen after the cold had its way with the old one.
 

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Last few days ive been experiencing trouble getting started in the morning. Rest of the day there is no issues. Checked a few things and here is where I am.

Glow plugs changed for new in the last couple of months.

Tested glow relay, power at and long buzz bar cutting in and out with relay.

New feed and return pipes to the tank. Been parking with nose facing down the drive to eliminate fuel leaking back to tank. Plus after a failed start I can see fuel running from feed into the filter.

Made sure alternator is kicking out 14 volts plus at fast idle.

Now I suspected lazy battery as crank speed is quite low in the morning. I wanted a big powerful battery but after fixing my screen that will have to wait. A friend of a friend has hooked me up with a new battery as a temporary but its only rated at 90ah and 700cca which from reading is still under powered. Anyways made sure that new battery was fully charged but same issue this morning.

She cranks till battery gets weak so ive had to use a squirt of easystart but once going theres no stopping her.

So im thinking now mayb lash the two batteries together under the bonnet to give me more to get things going. I dont want to become reliant on easystart but atm I have no choice in the morning.

Just after any input or ideas. Will have a search for dual battery setups purely for more juice to start. As if it keeps me going in the cold I can alway keep the two best batteries then do a proper set up.
 

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