LPG wiring

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Thanks again, I was getting a lot of boat parts on my search :lol
 
Thanks again, I was getting a lot of boat parts on my search :lol
Might not be a bad way to go, lots of bilge pump float switches are just a mercury switch in a fancy package....
with the added bonus that should you find yourself up to your watsits in water... well no gas, from your injection kit anyhow!
 
Mercury switch..

that little switch does not look like it will take many amps, I have some good ones that will take 30 amps no problem, but I am a bit wary of posting as they are like this one glass but a lot bigger and the mercury content is therefor correspondingly more even though the glass is encapsulated in a plastic covering (these are very high spec switches) if it was to break in the post the results would be very bad, so pick up only, but the good news is you can have one for free, oh and they are three terminal in a curved tube so absolutely ideal for the job, if you want a pic just say, Rick
 
easiest way to find out, stick your multimeter to one and stick it to test continuity (hopefully yours has a beep on it too). So when the switch engages you will hear a beep from the multimeter, so you can judge if the switch is ok when light to mild cornering.
 
I was wondering about what sort of cornering and tilt make it go off?:rolleyes:
As you know I can roll a bit on a turn anyway :lol
Hmmm, might not be a bad idea if it did shut off the gas under violent cornering!

Rick, I have some too of those 20/30A switches too. If you did want to post mine would fit in a plastic 35mm film container, so safe?
Take your point about the Maplin switch,... it was just a pointer.
:thumb2
 
I'd be very willing to buy one of either of you guys:D
I'm so close to finishing this install now I can smell the gas :sly
 
Hmmm, might not be a bad idea if it did shut off the gas under violent cornering!

Rick, I have some too of those 20/30A switches too. If you did want to post mine would fit in a plastic 35mm film container, so safe?
Take your point about the Maplin switch,... it was just a pointer.
:thumb2

the ones I have would not go into a 35 mm film container but upon looking at them again I do not think they would do the job as the angle that they would switch off is too shallow could link several together to improve the angle but on reflection probably better to use the sort of switch in the post as it will go from 90 to 90 before it opens ie upside down but just have to use some relays to improve the current, Rick
 
I'd be very willing to buy one of either of you guys:D
I'm so close to finishing this install now I can smell the gas :sly
You might have to wait for mine,... I still have not unpacked all my crap since moving, then I have to find it arghh
Waiting on the garage to be delivered (3 weeks) before I can trash anywhere else!
 
No worries :thumb2
I've got enough to fire it up now anyway I reckon:sly
Then add mercury sw later :cool:
Assuming there's still a truck to wire it too :lol
 
Fired up and running today and it's ace BUT I need somewhere to take a pulsed feed from. One of the shut off valves I can't use with ordinary volts up it:augie
The idea as said before is to shut off the gas in a stall or similar engine stop:thumbs
I thought of the No1 injector or the crank position sensor. Any thoughts?:rolleyes:
 
maybe I dont know what im taking about..

BUT

altinator, engine running makes electric keeps shut of valves open

stall ect..

engine stops, so will the altinator..

will that work??
 
I thought that too Zippy, but it's the shut off solenoid will only work with a "Pulsed" input.
It's probably because these things were petrol designs not diesel where there's no convenient coil or injector etc :eek:
 
do not try tapping into the injector sensor or the crank sensor, you will just upset the ECU you need something like a magnet on a rotating part and a reed switch fixed close to it , but this id rather crude, but on a diesel there is not a lot else I can think of, the alternator idea will not work as it is solid output and you need pulse, but what about the rev counter or W on the alternator (if you have one) I do not know what form that takes but if it drives the rev counter it sounds like it could be pulse output, Rick
 
What's W mean on the alternator?
I'm wondering now if I can find some other sort of relay that will work of the alternator.:rolleyes:
 
if you have it it is what drives the rev counter on some motors but I do not know what sort of output it is, it could be a gradually increasing voltage according to revs, or it could be a pulse that gets faster as the revs increase, but a simple relay will not work, but hang on just had an idea, multivibrators, just could be the answer, this could be linked to the alternator output with a diode to block battery voltage so it would stop if the alternator was stopped, how this works is you take the relay windings through the normally closed contact, so when the relay energises the power to the relay is broken so it closes again only to open again under power so it vibrates (no funny ideas) if the cycle is too fast then add a capacitor across the coil and depending on the value it will slow it down, the speed of open/close is vast totally dependent on the capacitor size, Rick
 

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