Lower pulley has fallen off!

[Daveluck]

That's madness!!!!! I'm glad it didn't come off while you were moving!!! How did you know it was broken? I presume it was only the tension of the belts that was stopping it from dropping off :nenau

Yep, just the alternator belt. It had jumped so stayed quite tight. Luckily I had just started up and on my drive. It made quite a noise!

 

[solarman216]

Thanks chaps.

So, somewhat of a novice here and a ton of questions

Do I have to do anything to stop the engine turning when I undo the big but?

Should I remove the fan?

Radiator is removed but do I need to remove the air con one?

The cars still outside, now we know what the problem is is it still safe to drive? ( Rick, I know you said yes, but we didn't know it was affecting all 3 belts)

Blimey, prices for new range from £300+ to less than £60! Looks like I'll be going for the lower end!

Anything else I should have a look at while I'm faffing about in this area?

Cheers

yes you will need to put it in 4th gear HB on and chock the wheels even then with transmission wind up you may struggle, best way is to lock the flywheel but you do not have access, next best is lock the prop shaft with a bar through a UJ but only use 4th as this is a direct coupling in a straight line, no gears involved.

re driving you are safe to run for around ten mins at a time from cold, plenty of time to drive it into your garage, if the rad is already off then the lower block will still have water but keep the running time as short as possible.

the fan should not get in the way and place a bit of board against the AC rad to stop accidental damage, you may need a puller to get old pulley off, most just pull off but! Rick

 

[Daveluck]

OK cheers for that.

Thank you all for your responses it really is greatly appreciated

I'll order the part and clear out the garage.

Anyone got any idea what this repair would cost from a proper mechanic? Ie not me:nenau

The conversation I'm going to have starts with " well it would have cost us this much if I wasn't doing it so buying these tools not actually costing us anything and i can use them again"

I could of course just lie and make a figure up but that would be unfair and sneaky.

Dave

 

[emjaybee]

OK cheers for that.

Thank you all for your responses it really is greatly appreciated

I'll order the part and clear out the garage.

Anyone got any idea what this repair would cost from a proper mechanic? Ie not me:nenau

The conversation I'm going to have starts with " well it would have cost us this much if I wasn't doing it so buying these tools not actually costing us anything and i can use them again"

I could of course just lie and make a figure up but that would be unfair and sneaky.

Dave

I like your thinking.

:thumbs

Nice, I successfully used similar tactics with great effect myself.

:augie

 

[solarman216]

In a garage, not Nissan you are probably talking 3 hours work @ £45 per hour plus parts, now they will not be wanting to fit used parts and they will replace the timing case oil seal, they will not be wanting a CBJ for an oil leak, worth you thinking about that too, Rick

 

[Daveluck]

In a garage, not Nissan you are probably talking 3 hours work @ £45 per hour plus parts, now they will not be wanting to fit used parts and they will replace the timing case oil seal, they will not be wanting a CBJ for an oil leak, worth you thinking about that too, Rick[/QUOTE

And very quick and reasonable too - damn them! Bang goesmmy cross beam adapter for my trolley jack.

OK - another part to add to the list

 

[solarman216]

Oh forgot you are in Spain, I was talking UK rates, do not know the hourly rate there, could be a lot more, Rick

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Ahhhhhhhh.....harmonic balancer! Now I understand what it is

Woo hoo I can buy the remover!

Top man, sounds like fun, looks like a knuckle skimmer tho :lol

 

[Daveluck]

Parts and tools have been ordered so I'm twiddling my thumbs.

Especially excited about my new 3/4 socket set. Needed because of the humungus 41mm socket to get that pulley off. Can't wait for that to turn up.

My torque wrench has turned up and I've been torquing anything and everything - way too much time on my hands...

 

[emjaybee]

You want to know about torquing?

Have you met my wife.

:augie

 

[quixote]

You want to know about torquing?

Have you met my wife

I was going to make a comment about twisting your nuts.

But then I thought better of it :nenau :lol

 

[emjaybee]

Oh, you HAVE met her.

:hide:

[No dear, I'm not mucking about on that forum again ]

 

[quixote]

:lol :lol :lol

 

[Daveluck]

OK...can someone tell what I'm doing wrong?:nenau

Truck is chocked, its in gear, but I don't seem to be able to find a point where he engine stops turning.

It tightens up and gets about 1/4 turn springy but not stopped.

If I get the Mrs to sit in the car with her foot on the brake will that help?

Is there anyway I can stop that 1/4 turn return?

Thanks

Dave

 

[Daveluck]

Just had weird thought - I am meant to be turning this anti clockwise like normal?

I only ask as I once had a horrid afternoon many years ago trying to take the wheel off my old Bedford cf250...where one side was normal anticlockwise wise while the other wasn't! I ended up having to get a mobile comercial tyre fitter round. Fair play to the bloke once he knew the problem and had stopped laughing he only charged a cup of tea and some biscuits :thumbs

 

[macabethiel]

Crank Nut

Never heard of a left hand thread on a crank pulley it is common on some wheel nuts though. Old Jags and Alfas had left hand thread on the nearside wheels.

When working on the old BMC A series engines I used to take the starter motor off and use a big screwdriver jammed in the flywheel ring gear to stop the engine turning.

 

[solarman216]

Yest it is anti clock to undo, you are experiencing transmission wind up, that is why I suggested putting a bar through a UJ on the prop shaft resting against the chassis that will eliminate wind up, but as said make sure it is in nothing but 4th gear, only other point is if the clutch does not hold, that nut is tight, if all this fails then you will need to remove the starter and jam the ring gear, or another way, as the pulley is scrap you could weld a bar to it that rests on the chassis, but need to be a good weld, Rick

 

[Daveluck]

Yest it is anti clock to undo, you are experiencing transmission wind up, that is why I suggested putting a bar through a UJ on the prop shaft resting against the chassis that will eliminate wind up, but as said make sure it is in nothing but 4th gear, only other point is if the clutch does not hold, that nut is tight, if all this fails then you will need to remove the starter and jam the ring gear, or another way, as the pulley is scrap you could weld a bar to it that rests on the chassis, but need to be a good weld, Rick

Ahhhhh, now I understand.

Sorry Rick, I had brain fade and did everything except the bar through the uj.:doh

Let's hope that works because I've just seen where the starter is an that looks like a right pig!

Thanks to you and everyone else for taking time out and pointing me in the right direction, apologies for you having to do it twice!

 

[Blocky10]

How's about a nut runner? You'll need a compressor then but.

Ian

 

[solarman216]

you would need a big windy gun to undo a nut at 230 ft-lb, Rick