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I would be using a 3 ft breaker bar with a tube extension on it, the same size nut is fitted to the steering box and recently undid 3 of them, really tough and they are only 150 ft-lb, Rick
Lower pulley has fallen off!
- Thread starter Daveluck
- Start date
Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:
Crap day. Decided to go for the weld a bar onto the pulley option and frankly it looks like I'm just not a good enough welder. It all holds together until I ramp up the pressure. I just can't get a decent weld on the pulley itself.
So tomorrow I'll try the bar through the uj.
Rick a quick question, when you say through the uj do you mean drop a prop, push out the uj and then run the bar through where the uj was? I only ask as with the uj in I can't get anything through.
I was going to go for the uj right behind the transfer/ gear box as that is the only one I can see will allow me to get a bar onto the chassis. I couldn't see any bolts holding it in so am assuming that I undo the bolts at the rear of the car, drop the prop and that end will pull out?
Forgot to mention this is on the swb not sure that will make any difference.
Feeling a bit despondent...
So tomorrow I'll try the bar through the uj.
Rick a quick question, when you say through the uj do you mean drop a prop, push out the uj and then run the bar through where the uj was? I only ask as with the uj in I can't get anything through.
I was going to go for the uj right behind the transfer/ gear box as that is the only one I can see will allow me to get a bar onto the chassis. I couldn't see any bolts holding it in so am assuming that I undo the bolts at the rear of the car, drop the prop and that end will pull out?
Forgot to mention this is on the swb not sure that will make any difference.
Feeling a bit despondent...
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yes there is not a lot of room, no do not remove any bolts, you need a good bit of steel, I tend to use a tyre lever or a snap on type pry bar with the taper end both are good steel and will stand a bit of tube as an extension onto anything that will not move, Rick
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when you did the welding did you try to fix to the shiny bit as you put it? you are better off putting your socket and bar on the nut and welding onto the face edge as long as you can still fit and remove the socket, Rick
Ahhh, no. I was trying to weld on the top as you look down. I thought if I could get a couple of decent welds either side then it would be enough but the weld just wouldn't stick. But I'm not the greatest welder and its only a stick one not a mig. I didn't even think to weld on the face:doh. I'll give that a go tomorrow. I've got a nice bit of T angle. Might cut a slot and whack the T in then weld onto the face..
Really sorry but I'm confused by your other reply. Do I remove the uj or do I try to slide something in the gap? Its the do not remove any bolts that's got me.
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no do not remove anything, find a suitable bar that will just go in the UJ, flat tyre lever etc, Rick
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Just been out this am to see what sort of job it is, 10 mins and it was off, I used a 41 mm ring with a small lump hammer, about a dozen blows sorted it, the mass of the engine moving parts is far higher than that of the hammer so works well, only trouble is a socket bar has more spring in it not being so heavy, anyway food for thought, it just depends what you have available, Rick
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Its off!!!!
But I cheated. Went back out last night to the w/shop and started grinding down some rebar ready for the morning. Got to about 12 and was ordered to come in for the night.
Anyway it just wouldnt hold. So this morning in a fit of pique I threw caution to the wind...
Jammed the t bar against the chassis, unplugged the glow plugs and tapped the stater
2 taps and the thing was off. I really do mean just tap....
So I know this is highly dangerous and probably not the recommended way of doing it but it is off. The problem is that the t bar handle can slide.
Rick, thank you for all your advice and help. Especially as you had to do it twice. I really appreciate the fact that youn went out this morning and undid that nut! :bow
I'll be buying a big ring spanner. That is clearly the way to go.
I hope it is easier to tighten up that it was to get the thing off.
The actual pulley just fell off once the nut was gone. Anyone want to buy a harmonic balancer removal kit? Unused?
Also next time I'll just bite the bullet and remove the air con condenser, front grill etc. More work and expense but I need space to work..
Now awaiting parts...
But I cheated. Went back out last night to the w/shop and started grinding down some rebar ready for the morning. Got to about 12 and was ordered to come in for the night.
Anyway it just wouldnt hold. So this morning in a fit of pique I threw caution to the wind...
Jammed the t bar against the chassis, unplugged the glow plugs and tapped the stater
2 taps and the thing was off. I really do mean just tap....So I know this is highly dangerous and probably not the recommended way of doing it but it is off. The problem is that the t bar handle can slide.
Rick, thank you for all your advice and help. Especially as you had to do it twice. I really appreciate the fact that youn went out this morning and undid that nut! :bow
I'll be buying a big ring spanner. That is clearly the way to go.
I hope it is easier to tighten up that it was to get the thing off.
The actual pulley just fell off once the nut was gone. Anyone want to buy a harmonic balancer removal kit? Unused?
Also next time I'll just bite the bullet and remove the air con condenser, front grill etc. More work and expense but I need space to work..
Now awaiting parts...
Banshee
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- Jul 24, 2012
- Messages
- 13,516
Its off!!!!
But I cheated. Went back out last night to the w/shop and started grinding down some rebar ready for the morning. Got to about 12 and was ordered to come in for the night.
Anyway it just wouldnt hold. So this morning in a fit of pique I threw caution to the wind...
Jammed the t bar against the chassis, unplugged the glow plugs and tapped the stater
So I know this is highly dangerous and probably not the recommended way of doing it but it is off. The problem is that the t bar handle can slide.
Rick, thank you for all your advice and help. Especially as you had to do it twice. I really appreciate the fact that youn went out this morning and undid that nut! :bow
I'll be buying a big ring spanner. That is clearly the way to go.
I hope it is easier to tighten up that it was to get the thing off.
The actual pulley just fell off once the nut was gone. Anyone want to buy a harmonic balancer removal kit? Unused?
Also next time I'll just bite the bullet and remove the air con condenser, front grill etc. More work and expense but I need space to work..
Now awaiting parts...
Awesome!!!!! Looks like a few nightmare jobs are coming to a successful end today on the forum, even Quixote has fixed his heaters :grouphug
I tell ya, I love this forum!
I was a member of a landy one when I had one. It started off OK but in the end it turned into a little club / fiefdom for some of the members.
They were very quick to tell you what you were doing wrong and considered themselves gods when dispensing their wisdom to the little people.
This forum is much more friendly!
I was a member of a landy one when I had one. It started off OK but in the end it turned into a little club / fiefdom for some of the members.
They were very quick to tell you what you were doing wrong and considered themselves gods when dispensing their wisdom to the little people.
This forum is much more friendly!
Banshee
Moderator
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2012
- Messages
- 13,516
This reminds me of Alex and Rustic :lol :lol :lol
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