Live front axle

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i've found 33's are about the limit unless you do some serious upgrades like makeitfit, just stick a lokka on there and happy days, i think if i wanted to go any bigger i would save up and go the trol route, far easier and cheaper in the long run
 
Lets say you did a 4" suspension lift the front diff will have to be dropped by 2" but it'll still be out of harms way:thumb2 & you could poss get 35's on but you'll then need to get more power out of the engine via chip or remap & poss LPG injection like makeitfit has done. Not sure if the 2.4 petrol transfer box has a lower ratio if it does then it would help matters
 
Lets say you did a 4" suspension lift the front diff will have to be dropped by 2" but it'll still be out of harms way:thumb2 & you could poss get 35's on but you'll then need to get more power out of the engine via chip or remap & poss LPG injection like makeitfit has done. Not sure if the 2.4 petrol transfer box has a lower ratio if it does then it would help matters

What the deal with this LPG malarky? Though that was a cheap petrol alternative :nenau:nenau

Ive gotta weigh up the options. Maybe a Lokka and different arms ect. I'm just really against the diff being lowered.

When you say lowered i take it it wont be lower than it is now?
 
I'm just really against the diff being lowered.

When you say lowered i take it it wont be lower than it is now?

Alex mate more than ever I think you really need to take a minute to yourself and use some sort of search engine to get a proper idea of the difference between IFS and live axle etc and especially how the diff sits in an IFS setup.

You can lower the diff as much as you wan't but what Sweety and Elty and myself are saying to you is that you can use the kit to keep the diff at it's current level even though you're putting in a bigger suspension lift.

Clear as mud :thumbs
 
Alex mate more than ever I think you really need to take a minute to yourself and use some sort of search engine to get a proper idea of the difference between IFS and live axle etc and especially how the diff sits in an IFS setup.

You can lower the diff as much as you wan't but what Sweety and Elty and myself are saying to you is that you can use the kit to keep the diff at it's current level even though you're putting in a bigger suspension lift.

Clear as mud :thumbs

Ah right ok, so by my (crazy) theory the chassis and body will both be lifted but diff will remain in same position right :nenau

If you could just clarify for me you'd be a star :cool: :lol
 
Fitting one to a terrano with heavy modification to make it fit :nenau

If for example one could be married up, this would open up a whole world for more lifting right as cv joints would not be stressed like std terrano ones? :nenau

You can see where I am going with this :naughty

Oh p.s. No "buy a patrol" comments either :lol

Have not bothered to read the rest of the thread, a live axle may give you a bit more articulation, but will NOT improve diff/ground clearance only bigger wheels will do this and then you may be looking for more power to turn them, Rick
 
Have not bothered to read the rest of the thread, a live axle may give you a bit more articulation, but will NOT improve diff/ground clearance only bigger wheels will do this and then you may be looking for more power to turn them, Rick

What rick says
Every time you fit a bigger diameter tyre you are down gearing so the bigger you go the more power you need to keep things on an even keel.
Might have super ground clearance but no power to back it up if you go too big.
I'm all for modding and love the Icelandic terrano's but need a deep wallet and the knowledge to keep and maintain a truck like that.
Not being negative just realistic.
As has been said if it's two live axles you want buy a troll.
Or an sj or a defender or a cruiser or a.....the list goes on.
 
All your points taken on board.

So with the knowledge I have gained from this thread I believe I have a new list of desirables :naughty (thoughts please)

This calming kit which apparently could give me another 4" :nenau :naughty
A portal axle which should be ordered to fit and will give extra diff clearance
And a Lokka kit if applicable with the portal.

Whatcha guys think? Portal axle being the least important :thumb2
 
Alex, just go out and crouch down in front of your truck as it is now and glory at the great big gap between the ground and your cross member. That gap is courtesy of IFS , brilliant ain't it :D Your diff is way up out the way.
Now then look under the front of any live axled beastie ! What you see then is a bloody great diff dangling there, all close to the dirt and that :eek:
As said before you can simply go 33s and then a lokka, simple and bloody effective.
IF you're mad enough you can go 35s BUT you will need lots of cutting and shutting to make them fit. Then you need more POWER , see my threads on all that stuff.
33s and lokka and good flex makes the T2 a good all round , light off roader. Throw in some easy power mods and you're sorted.
All this live axle stuff is fun but IMHO a waste of time.
Carry on :cool:
 
Ok good angle, nice points.

33s is surely a waste to buy considering I already have 32s :nenau

If I were to get another tyre upgrade id be tempted to do some mega cutting and get 35s.

You mention power upgrade, I take maf amp and sensible remap will do the job?
Steering mod will be needed too obviously
Is this calmini kit compatible too with big tyres and a Lokka also?

This would give me a mega wish list of, 35s, Lokka, maf amp n remap, and calmini kit :naughty

Maf amp is going on this month at some point with Rick :D

I plan to visit you too dude (makeitfit) for the steering mod, if you will put up with my nonsense of course :naughty

Then that just leaves, remap, 35s and calmini kit :naughty
 
All your points taken on board.

So with the knowledge I have gained from this thread I believe I have a new list of desirables :naughty (thoughts please)

This calming kit which apparently could give me another 4" :nenau :naughty
A portal axle which should be ordered to fit and will give extra diff clearance
And a Lokka kit if applicable with the portal.

Whatcha guys think? Portal axle being the least important :thumb2

The calmini kit won't give you any more clearance than what you have now.
It lowers the diff,suspension mountings and control arms giving you the room to fit bigger tyres but keeps the suspension geometry the same.
Imagine everything on the front end running gear but 2"closer to the ground.
Will give you more travel on the control arms as there is no need to wind the torsion bars up to gain front end lift.
A lot of money for little or no gain.
Having LSD on the rear overcomes the problem of only having 3 wheels in contact with the ground when travel has run out on the front end as the power is not transferred to the wheel which is spinning in the air,unlike my fronty which had an open diff.
 
Thank Elty,i know about the Lokka vs non, one Wheel spinning (all power) ect.

What I am confused about is this calmini kit.

Am I right by saying the body and chassis would be lifted 3" but the diff would remain where it started (after re lowering it) to keep everything level.

This is a very confusing concept :eek:

This is also why I was looking at a live axle (almost boundary free for lifting)
 
Thank Elty,i know about the Lokka vs non, one Wheel spinning (all power) ect.

What I am confused about is this calmini kit.

Am I right by saying the body and chassis would be lifted 3" but the diff would remain where it started (after re lowering it) to keep everything level.

This is a very confusing concept :eek:

This is also why I was looking at a live axle (almost boundary free for lifting)

the calmini kit basically drops the entire front drive line down lower.
It is designed to keep the front CV's within operating spec (max 35 degrees) from memory.

all you want to do is get longer upper control arms.
you don't want ball joint spacers this wont fix the issue with the angle on the top ball joint.
the upper control arms will also correct the camber issue.
DSC01187.jpg


this will allow the same amount of travel with the torsion bars tweaked.

then get a locker in the front and some 32 inch simexs and you will go more places then a patrol
$_35.JPG
 
Longer controls arms don't give you any more lift they just put the angle of the upper ball joint nearer its original position and put the camber back to something like standard.
Have had my camber done but it's still not perfect.only way I can keep it something like is to lower the front end down a tad on the torsions.
All you do when raising the front end on the torsion bars is use up some of your droop travel on the. Ifs.
This is when you get the wheel in the air scenario as it cannot travel any further down.
 
and that's the point of the upper control arm it allows the same amount of travel as it was before you "reindexed" your torsion bars as apposed to winding them up it will allow the same amount of twist in the rod instead of compressing all of its ability to the high end.

It allows the same amount of room between the bump stops.... just anywhere up to 3 inches higher along with aforementioned camber and ball joint angle correction.
 
I've got calmini top arms on mine :thumb2
Did I mention Alex that I run 35" simex on 2 + 2 susp and body lift ?
IFS working within normal - ish range and guess what ? My CVs are OK :D
I've made a super strong steering mod as per my thread and use good quality greasable ball joints.
It all works and is easily DIY able , or in your case a Jaaaag monkey could do it for you :rolleyes:
Live axle N/A
 
I've got calmini top arms on mine :thumb2
Did I mention Alex that I run 35" simex on 2 + 2 susp and body lift ?
IFS working within normal - ish range and guess what ? My CVs are OK :D
I've made a super strong steering mod as per my thread and use good quality greasable ball joints.
It all works and is easily DIY able , or in your case a Jaaaag monkey could do it for you :rolleyes:
Live axle N/A

I know we have spoken about the steering mod being done with ya.
Perhaps we could set a weekend far away for some modding if your up for it? :naughty

I would be interested to get these top arms, and bugger it, by the time I see you I will have maf amp done, so perhaps some more cutting for 35s :naughty

I dont wanna buy an expensive set of 33s as I already have 32s at the mo.

Lastly will a maf amp cut it for "enough power to cruise around" with 35s on?
or is a map needed too?
 
What is this thing being prepped for 35" tyres biggest lift possible and only been green laning a handful of times, only mod I did to green lane was add a cb. seriously the money that could be spent on this but to what end, my take is you should only lift min ammout you need due to changing stability and raising balance point.
Last time out it seems it more fell over than bottomed out so why lift apart from to make sure it does fall over.

Kind regards

Russell.
 

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