Lack of power and stalling

[elty001]

Calling on you terrano guru's.
Recently while cold the terrano has started refusing to play until properly up to temp.
Will start no problems but bogs down and stalls and just lacks power.
My initial thought is the maf sensor is on it's way out as i had similar issues a few years back.
Got a brand new one winging it's way to me but just looking for anything else that could cause the same issue.

 

[solarman216]

Assuming your fuel filter is in good order I would first remove the pump rear banjo then screw back in the bolt start the engine and you should have a nice straight fine jet of fuel from the pin hole orifice, if that is good then you need to check the pressure regulator at the front to the OS of the inlet banjo it is a 10mm two sided flat, the piston inside must move freely without sticking at all, Rick

 

[elty001]

Fuel filter has only been on a couple of months, checked and drained the water trap and almost nothing in it.
Have clear lines upto the fuel filter and no air bubbles visable.
possibly a bad tank of fuel as it's only started to do it after i filled up a couple of weeks ago.

 

[elty001]

After talking to a guy i know who also runs a zexel set terrano he says my symptoms sound identical to when his crank sensor went on his.
Going to get one ordered and swap it out before i start looking at the IP.

 

[solarman216]

Yes crank sensor could well cause this issue, it is on the front of the engine easy to get to, but when these fail they usually run fine cold and fail hot , on expansion the broken wire parts company, Rick

 

[solarman216]

Don't forget you can clean the Hitachi MAF, Rick

 

[elty001]

Don't forget you can clean the Hitachi MAF, Rick

I've cleaned it with maf cleaner and made no difference.
This is a second hand spare one i had in the shed which i put on a couple of years ago so won't hurt to fit a new one.
Crank sensor is easy to change and can get one cheap enough so no harm in fitting a new one.
Those were my exact words regarding the sensor to my mate but he's adamant that is exactly how his started to run when his was failing.

 

[solarman216]

It is a coil of potted wire, so there are no rules for how it may fail, most fail with a broken wire that reconnects when it cools down but nothing to say a break in a different part of the coil only makes when hot in which case on starting it goes into limp mode if it starts at all, Rick

 

[elty001]

Decided to pull the crank sensor out today and test the resistance just to kill my curiosity.
After doing some research i found that i should be reading 1500 ohms on a good hitachi one.
I wasn't getting that so looks like the sensor is duff.
Next came the agonising hunt for a reasonably priced replacement
What are these sensors made of???
Rang round countless amounts of local motor factors to either be told they couldn't get one or the ones they could get would mean selling off some of my organs to pay for it.
I then remembered about the cheap audi sensor mod so after some forum searching I was armed with all the info i needed and shelled out ten whole english pounds for the sensor.
Should be with me early next week so for now the terrano is having a well earned rest.

 

[solarman216]

IIRC I have the adaptor I made for mine some place, will have a look tomorrow, if I find it you are welcome to it, it is just a disk of ali that I turned up on the lathe, incidentally the ohms value is not too important it will work on any thing from 900 to 2k, Rick

 

[solarman216]

Yes found it together with two Audi sensors, one still with the Audi plug so never been used the other with a grafted T2 plug, incidentally the Audi measures around 900 Ohms the ECU only needs to see a pulse and even much lower Ohms will still do this, what Ohms was yours? Rick

 

[elty001]

With the engine warm I'm getting 1480 ohms.
On a cold engine i was only getting 756 ohms.

 

[solarman216]

No you should not be getting that kind of variation, so see what the new sensor does, Rick

 

[solarman216]

Well I stand corrected, I have never bothered to do a hot/cold test on a crank sensor before, in my book as long as it gives a reasonable reading I pronounce it good, so in light of your figures I conducted a test and yes as it gets hot it goes up to around 1200 Ohms, so I am pretty sure it is not your problem, so keep looking, Rick

 

[elty001]

Well I stand corrected, I have never bothered to do a hot/cold test on a crank sensor before, in my book as long as it gives a reasonable reading I pronounce it good, so in light of your figures I conducted a test and yes as it gets hot it goes up to around 1200 Ohms, so I am pretty sure it is not your problem, so keep looking, Rick

I'm leaning more towards a problem with the auto transmission.
when cold the engine will start fine and tick over at idle no problem.
As soon as i engage reverse or drive it's bogging down and stalling.
Once warmed up the problem goes away and the motor will start and drive with no issues.
I did a quick fluid change yesterday which has got rid of the stalling when engaging drive while stationary but on a road test it stalled while changing from 1st to 2nd gear.
Re started no problems and was fine for the rest of the journey.
It's like the torque converter is locking up while the ATF is cold.
I'm hoping a full fluid flush and new transmission filter will solve/improve this.
If all else fails i might go down the same road as Barrbeast and convert to a manual box.

 

[solarman216]

OK sounds like a plan, do you have a box, as I know of one that will be going to the scrappy on Tuesday if no one wants it, it is still on the motor so flywheel gear lever gaiters prop shaft all available, Rick

 

[elty001]

OK sounds like a plan, do you have a box, as I know of one that will be going to the scrappy on Tuesday if no one wants it, it is still on the motor so flywheel gear lever gaiters prop shaft all available, Rick

Going to have one last attempt to sort the autobox with a fluid and filter change before I make that decision,but cheers for the heads up:thumb2

 

[elty001]

So i set about changing the transmission filter yesterday to hopefully remedy the running problems I've been having.

The fluid that i took out did look past it's best and the bottom of the sump pan was filthy.
Initial road test last night was good with the box changing through the gears as it should with no jerking or slipping.
True test will be from a cold start this morning.

 

[elty001]

Well that made no difference at all:doh
Starts fine and ticks over at 1000 rpm which is normal from a cold start.
Put my foot on the brake,select reverse and it stalls instantly:nenau
Once warm it selects all gears and drives and behaves like it should.
just about to re vsit the manual and see what sensors/switches do what as iv'e a feeling it's one of them that's duff.

 

[makeitfit]

Bloody sensors I'm having to learn to live with them again on my FarmFind.
I'd got rid of them all on the Black Pearl