jims-terrano Project
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Blocky10
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Hell Jim. Yours is worth £3000
http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-...an-terrano-ii-27-tdi-se-5dr-diesel/1140052030
Ian
http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-...an-terrano-ii-27-tdi-se-5dr-diesel/1140052030
Ian
jims-terrano
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Ok if you insist, how you gonna pay :lol:lol:lol:lol
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I wonder if any representative of Nissan look in on the forum, to see what is needed to keep vehicles on the road for as long as possible, maybe take some credit...:augie
It could help their PR, LR state a high percentage of their vehicles are still on the road since first production... But that's mainly not down to them, in the same way that we keep these trucks on the road for over 20 years... NOT all thanks to Nissan...
A bit like "Trigger's Broom", when you look at how much steel has to be replaced lol...
It could help their PR, LR state a high percentage of their vehicles are still on the road since first production... But that's mainly not down to them, in the same way that we keep these trucks on the road for over 20 years... NOT all thanks to Nissan...
A bit like "Trigger's Broom", when you look at how much steel has to be replaced lol...
jims-terrano
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I Told You It Wasn't Finished
OK so today after running around being dad's taxi I got sorted out to do some more little jobs on the truck. Yesterday some bits arrived from CNCfabs so time to fit them. Also whilst waiting for paint to dry washed and waxed the Skoda and the old terrano, both look a lot tidier for this TLC.
First off is the High Level Brake Light, a real easy job to do as the wiring is already there and live so it would be rude not to. Exactly what years they started including the wiring I have no idea but was the same on my old R plate truck.
Here you see the screws to remove.
Also remove the screws from the top of the side panel around the tailgate glass.
You can see the hole marked in the centre of the top trim on the tailgate but don't just drill through it, you must remove it first.
Once all the screws are removed gently pull the trim away to reveal the wire.
Remove the blue insulation tape to release the wire and let it drop. You can test that there is a live for the brake light at this point if you like but I was confident that it was live.
Next you will need to make an 18mm hole in the centre of the upper trim, basically the size of the hole is marked. I used a Step Cutter or Cone Cutter simply because I bought a set for making the holes in the front cross member. In the past I have simply drilled a lot of small holes all the way around but this way is neater but it's all covered so doesn't really matter.
Next refit the trims ensuring that the wire is now poking out from the hole you just made.
Now as you can see the brake light came in Nissan Beige just like the vast majority, some of the newer trucks came with them in black plastic but these are rare. So as you will see I masked mine up and gave it a coat of Satin Black, just need a quick rub over with fine sand paper before painting to give it a key.
Notice the white plug on top of the light unit which connects to the cable on the tailgate.
Remove the two screws underneath the light unit to release the outer cover.
You can see the two screws marked here that attach the lamp to the tailgate. If you buy one from a breakers ensure they send these screws as it makes life a whole lot easier. CNCfabs thinks of this and does send them :thumb2
Didn't think you needed to see photo's of the masking and painting. Here the lamp unit has been connected and screwed in to place. Careful with the wire as once connected you'll need to feed some of it back behind the trim through the hole that has just been made.
Now you can see the outer cover and the two screws that hold the cover and lamp together.
Knew it would work :clap
Far better in satin black than manky beige isn't it :thumbs
Also the passenger sun visor was a botched thing from another vehicle and once it had been pointed out to me it stuck out and spoilt the interior.
Here's the replacement fitted.
Now you may of noticed a lack of Mattsterrano today, he was busy selling poppies :clap
So thought this truck deserved to wear her poppy with pride :thumb2
So next I'll be taxing the truck so that we can drive it around and enjoy it.
Once taxed I still have a couple of odd jobs.
1. Replace the electric mirror switch
2. Replace the rear diff breather union
3. Check the rear diff oil to see if it is contaminated
4. Refit the wheel arch liners and splash some underseal around
5. Fix the high level side lights, the bulb holders were causing problems so to be on the safe side for MOT I refitted the old single brake light bulb holders back.
After that a rest, then see how the truck is running. Then think about what else I can do.
OK so today after running around being dad's taxi I got sorted out to do some more little jobs on the truck. Yesterday some bits arrived from CNCfabs so time to fit them. Also whilst waiting for paint to dry washed and waxed the Skoda and the old terrano, both look a lot tidier for this TLC.
First off is the High Level Brake Light, a real easy job to do as the wiring is already there and live so it would be rude not to. Exactly what years they started including the wiring I have no idea but was the same on my old R plate truck.
Here you see the screws to remove.
Also remove the screws from the top of the side panel around the tailgate glass.
You can see the hole marked in the centre of the top trim on the tailgate but don't just drill through it, you must remove it first.
Once all the screws are removed gently pull the trim away to reveal the wire.
Remove the blue insulation tape to release the wire and let it drop. You can test that there is a live for the brake light at this point if you like but I was confident that it was live.
Next you will need to make an 18mm hole in the centre of the upper trim, basically the size of the hole is marked. I used a Step Cutter or Cone Cutter simply because I bought a set for making the holes in the front cross member. In the past I have simply drilled a lot of small holes all the way around but this way is neater but it's all covered so doesn't really matter.
Next refit the trims ensuring that the wire is now poking out from the hole you just made.
Now as you can see the brake light came in Nissan Beige just like the vast majority, some of the newer trucks came with them in black plastic but these are rare. So as you will see I masked mine up and gave it a coat of Satin Black, just need a quick rub over with fine sand paper before painting to give it a key.
Notice the white plug on top of the light unit which connects to the cable on the tailgate.
Remove the two screws underneath the light unit to release the outer cover.
You can see the two screws marked here that attach the lamp to the tailgate. If you buy one from a breakers ensure they send these screws as it makes life a whole lot easier. CNCfabs thinks of this and does send them :thumb2
Didn't think you needed to see photo's of the masking and painting. Here the lamp unit has been connected and screwed in to place. Careful with the wire as once connected you'll need to feed some of it back behind the trim through the hole that has just been made.
Now you can see the outer cover and the two screws that hold the cover and lamp together.
Knew it would work :clap
Far better in satin black than manky beige isn't it :thumbs
Also the passenger sun visor was a botched thing from another vehicle and once it had been pointed out to me it stuck out and spoilt the interior.
Here's the replacement fitted.
Now you may of noticed a lack of Mattsterrano today, he was busy selling poppies :clap
So thought this truck deserved to wear her poppy with pride :thumb2
So next I'll be taxing the truck so that we can drive it around and enjoy it.
Once taxed I still have a couple of odd jobs.
1. Replace the electric mirror switch
2. Replace the rear diff breather union
3. Check the rear diff oil to see if it is contaminated
4. Refit the wheel arch liners and splash some underseal around
5. Fix the high level side lights, the bulb holders were causing problems so to be on the safe side for MOT I refitted the old single brake light bulb holders back.
After that a rest, then see how the truck is running. Then think about what else I can do.
jims-terrano
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- Sep 20, 2004
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Forgot to mention, when you refit the trims to the tailgate after feeding the wire through. Do not refit the two centre screws as these are where the brake light screws to the tailgate.
don simon
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- Oct 17, 2014
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- 2,214
Nuts! I'd have swapped you a door with a high level brake light for a door with an internal opener... :dohOK so today after running around being dad's taxi I got sorted out to do some more little jobs on the truck. Yesterday some bits arrived from CNCfabs so time to fit them. Also whilst waiting for paint to dry washed and waxed the Skoda and the old terrano, both look a lot tidier for this TLC.
First off is the High Level Brake Light, a real easy job to do as the wiring is already there and live so it would be rude not to. Exactly what years they started including the wiring I have no idea but was the same on my old R plate truck.
Here you see the screws to remove.
Also remove the screws from the top of the side panel around the tailgate glass.
You can see the hole marked in the centre of the top trim on the tailgate but don't just drill through it, you must remove it first.
Once all the screws are removed gently pull the trim away to reveal the wire.
Remove the blue insulation tape to release the wire and let it drop. You can test that there is a live for the brake light at this point if you like but I was confident that it was live.
Next you will need to make an 18mm hole in the centre of the upper trim, basically the size of the hole is marked. I used a Step Cutter or Cone Cutter simply because I bought a set for making the holes in the front cross member. In the past I have simply drilled a lot of small holes all the way around but this way is neater but it's all covered so doesn't really matter.
Next refit the trims ensuring that the wire is now poking out from the hole you just made.
Now as you can see the brake light came in Nissan Beige just like the vast majority, some of the newer trucks came with them in black plastic but these are rare. So as you will see I masked mine up and gave it a coat of Satin Black, just need a quick rub over with fine sand paper before painting to give it a key.
Notice the white plug on top of the light unit which connects to the cable on the tailgate.
Remove the two screws underneath the light unit to release the outer cover.
You can see the two screws marked here that attach the lamp to the tailgate. If you buy one from a breakers ensure they send these screws as it makes life a whole lot easier. CNCfabs thinks of this and does send them :thumb2
Didn't think you needed to see photo's of the masking and painting. Here the lamp unit has been connected and screwed in to place. Careful with the wire as once connected you'll need to feed some of it back behind the trim through the hole that has just been made.
Now you can see the outer cover and the two screws that hold the cover and lamp together.
Knew it would work :clap
Far better in satin black than manky beige isn't it :thumbs
Also the passenger sun visor was a botched thing from another vehicle and once it had been pointed out to me it stuck out and spoilt the interior.
Here's the replacement fitted.
Now you may of noticed a lack of Mattsterrano today, he was busy selling poppies :clap
So thought this truck deserved to wear her poppy with pride :thumb2
So next I'll be taxing the truck so that we can drive it around and enjoy it.
Once taxed I still have a couple of odd jobs.
1. Replace the electric mirror switch
2. Replace the rear diff breather union
3. Check the rear diff oil to see if it is contaminated
4. Refit the wheel arch liners and splash some underseal around
5. Fix the high level side lights, the bulb holders were causing problems so to be on the safe side for MOT I refitted the old single brake light bulb holders back.
After that a rest, then see how the truck is running. Then think about what else I can do.
jims-terrano
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- Sep 20, 2004
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- 12,956
Haha I've got best of both worlds now lol.
Is it possible to fit a door opener?
Is it possible to fit a door opener?
jims-terrano
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- Sep 20, 2004
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Been out for a run in it this morning now it's taxed and found two problems.
Firstly the wife got dripped on:lol the drips are coming from the pivot point of the ns sun visor that I fitted yesterday. I suspect one of the screws may have punctured the sunroof drain. Will try and take a look at that this afternoon.
Secondly and more seriously. The wife likes the car and is planning putting the dog crate in the back and using it herself :doh
So a little work today.
Firstly the wife got dripped on:lol the drips are coming from the pivot point of the ns sun visor that I fitted yesterday. I suspect one of the screws may have punctured the sunroof drain. Will try and take a look at that this afternoon.
Secondly and more seriously. The wife likes the car and is planning putting the dog crate in the back and using it herself :doh
So a little work today.
marti666
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- Jun 27, 2014
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looks like you best get that drip sorted or your going to get wet....:lol
on the plus side with all the new skills you've learnt you can do the other one up now as she'll be using the the auto....
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- Feb 23, 2007
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Jim, you are not thinking fast enough...:augie
Tell her on this model, it has a self cleaning windscreen.
If she says then why is it dripping on the inside?
Say... It's self cleaning both sides...:doh
:lol:lol:lol
jims-terrano
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1 11 15
Today I had a look for the source of the drips from the passenger side sun visor. Expected to find that I had punctured the sunroof drain whilst fitting the sun visor yesterday but no. Turned out to be the sun roof drain rubber hose had disconnected from the metal pipe on the sunroof frame. Didn't take any photos but a nice easy fix that took minutes. Removed the grab handle and sunroof, then removed the door seal from around the aperture and then the A Post trim up the side of the windscreen. Could then look behind the head lining and saw the hose was loose. Didn't want this happening again so got a suitable jubilee clip and refitted the hose with the jubilee clip.
Next with the help of Matts Terrano we looked at the high level side lights. I have a packet of wedge bulb holders so decided to do away with the cheap Chinese stop n tail bulb holders and drill a second hole and fit these with LED bulbs.
Removed the light units and placed masking tape around the area to be drilled. Like yesterday I used my step cutter.
Once the hole was drilled I used a dremel type device to make small sections for the lugs on the bulb holders so that they would fit with a twist.
Here's the bulb and holders that I have used. All the wires were soldered and heat shrink used to insulate.
Although these work I'm not satisfied by them. They have a slight pinkish hue to the light, maybe better if a standard bulb is used. I think my original idea was better so may look for some better holders in a breakers yard.
We also replaced the electric mirror switch and rear diff breather union. The drivers door mirror now adjusts but sadly the passenger side doesn't move though I can hear the motor. These mirrors have been repaired at some point as they no longer fold back. Think these will be on the shopping list in the future too.
Today I had a look for the source of the drips from the passenger side sun visor. Expected to find that I had punctured the sunroof drain whilst fitting the sun visor yesterday but no. Turned out to be the sun roof drain rubber hose had disconnected from the metal pipe on the sunroof frame. Didn't take any photos but a nice easy fix that took minutes. Removed the grab handle and sunroof, then removed the door seal from around the aperture and then the A Post trim up the side of the windscreen. Could then look behind the head lining and saw the hose was loose. Didn't want this happening again so got a suitable jubilee clip and refitted the hose with the jubilee clip.
Next with the help of Matts Terrano we looked at the high level side lights. I have a packet of wedge bulb holders so decided to do away with the cheap Chinese stop n tail bulb holders and drill a second hole and fit these with LED bulbs.
Removed the light units and placed masking tape around the area to be drilled. Like yesterday I used my step cutter.
Once the hole was drilled I used a dremel type device to make small sections for the lugs on the bulb holders so that they would fit with a twist.
Here's the bulb and holders that I have used. All the wires were soldered and heat shrink used to insulate.
Although these work I'm not satisfied by them. They have a slight pinkish hue to the light, maybe better if a standard bulb is used. I think my original idea was better so may look for some better holders in a breakers yard.
We also replaced the electric mirror switch and rear diff breather union. The drivers door mirror now adjusts but sadly the passenger side doesn't move though I can hear the motor. These mirrors have been repaired at some point as they no longer fold back. Think these will be on the shopping list in the future too.
macabethiel
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- Aug 20, 2008
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Terrano re-birth !!
Just read this whole thread and I am well impressed with what Jim has done to give his Terrano a new lease of life.
It reminds me of when I did a Mini re-build back in 1978/9 and a couple of Riley Elf re-builds back in the 80's.
Sadly I have lost the drive/energy to do a project like this now I am older but it is great to live the build by proxy. These days I buy the odd copy of Practical Classics as comfort reading.
Last Riley Elf I parted with made £300 and it was pretty rusted through for the second time. A Vicar drove from a couple of hundred miles away and bought it as he wanted the front Grille & Bonnet for one he had owned since new that was crashed by a family member. If I still had an Elf it would be worth 10 or 20 times what it sold for back in the day!
Just read this whole thread and I am well impressed with what Jim has done to give his Terrano a new lease of life.
It reminds me of when I did a Mini re-build back in 1978/9 and a couple of Riley Elf re-builds back in the 80's.
Sadly I have lost the drive/energy to do a project like this now I am older but it is great to live the build by proxy. These days I buy the odd copy of Practical Classics as comfort reading.
Last Riley Elf I parted with made £300 and it was pretty rusted through for the second time. A Vicar drove from a couple of hundred miles away and bought it as he wanted the front Grille & Bonnet for one he had owned since new that was crashed by a family member. If I still had an Elf it would be worth 10 or 20 times what it sold for back in the day!
jims-terrano
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Thanks for the comments guys, we really appreciate them. Going to carry posting updates as we do little jobs.
Got to say I really am enjoying driving this truck, those reverse lights are great. Think the headlamps need adjusting though, not sure they're quite right.
Got to say I really am enjoying driving this truck, those reverse lights are great. Think the headlamps need adjusting though, not sure they're quite right.
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Hi Jim, having passed the MOT you know that the headlights are adjusted so they don't glare oncoming drivers.
What you don't know is are they set to give the best range without affecting the MOT spec.
So try this... you will need...
A roll of masking tape.
A horizontal and flat road surface.
A vertical surface like a garage door.
A dark night.
A suitable terrano lol
Park a few feet from the garage door, on dipped beam, place some masking tape on the upper cut off of the beam for each head light.
Reverse back, you should see the headlight beam cut off point drop below the masking tape. If it goes higher you will cause dazzle to oncoming drivers, MOT fail, so I would adjust the headlights so the cut off is just below this masking tape.
This is what I do, and have never had issues with the MOT, or had anyone flash me, unless going over the brow of a hill.
The method I use is no guarantee that a vehicle will pass an MOT, as headlight alignment also depends on vehicle loading, more especially whilst adjusting the headlights.
Hope it helps.
You might want to try the headlight adjustment against alternative walls as not all surfaces are flat and level.
The Masking tape method also works for left to right adjustment, but reversing back in a straight line is more of a challenge lol...
jims-terrano
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Update Now It's Running
Well just thought that I'd give you a quick update as to how it's running now she's on the road.
Got used to automate just about but get into manual car and I'm forgetting the clutch when coming up to a junction :doh
So got the passenger side sun visor dry now and fitted back in.
Today my son noticed drips from the sunroof switches:doh so checked the drivers side sunroof drain but nothing wrong. Headlining is damp on drivers side so water getting in somewhere. For now I've stuck duck tape over the sunroof apperture and will look at it later. Did test by pouring water in the sunroof channels whilst it was open and the water drained away as it should with no sign of leaking under the head lining.
Yesterday noticed a screach from the starter motor, started a thread on this and one solution appears to be wait until the red light on the mode switch goes out before trying to start. This appears to be working so will keep my eye on it just the same.
Earlier this week found oil dripping from around the oil filter area. Traced leak to the banjo bolt on the oil filter housing. Replaced the copper sealing washers and so far seems to be sealed but again keeping my eyes on it.
Lastly thought it was time to get the breakdown cover. Wife called RAC who cover us for the other truck and my sons car. Great only costing £21 for full cover inc recovery and home start. Not bad really so pleased with that.
I can highly recommend the reverse lights they have made a huge difference, can really see well behind using the door mirrors now:thumb2
That's all for now. Once the little problems are sorted out I'll get on with fitting the second battery and towbar.
Well just thought that I'd give you a quick update as to how it's running now she's on the road.
Got used to automate just about but get into manual car and I'm forgetting the clutch when coming up to a junction :doh
So got the passenger side sun visor dry now and fitted back in.
Today my son noticed drips from the sunroof switches:doh so checked the drivers side sunroof drain but nothing wrong. Headlining is damp on drivers side so water getting in somewhere. For now I've stuck duck tape over the sunroof apperture and will look at it later. Did test by pouring water in the sunroof channels whilst it was open and the water drained away as it should with no sign of leaking under the head lining.
Yesterday noticed a screach from the starter motor, started a thread on this and one solution appears to be wait until the red light on the mode switch goes out before trying to start. This appears to be working so will keep my eye on it just the same.
Earlier this week found oil dripping from around the oil filter area. Traced leak to the banjo bolt on the oil filter housing. Replaced the copper sealing washers and so far seems to be sealed but again keeping my eyes on it.
Lastly thought it was time to get the breakdown cover. Wife called RAC who cover us for the other truck and my sons car. Great only costing £21 for full cover inc recovery and home start. Not bad really so pleased with that.
I can highly recommend the reverse lights they have made a huge difference, can really see well behind using the door mirrors now:thumb2
That's all for now. Once the little problems are sorted out I'll get on with fitting the second battery and towbar.
