Idle oddness

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the closest i can get to replciating the issue is trying to wind UP my passenger electric window, then it does it.

OK that sure points to a bad connection on the car that is causing your problem, even putting it on a diagnostic tester may not tell you where the problem is, it would most likely say that there is insufficient voltage getting to "this that or the other", it wont say it is the earthing point inside the foot well or whatever, so whichever way you sort it it is just keep looking for connecting blocks on associated wiring and pull them apart and check them over, but pay special attention to earth connections, Rick
 
ok..I have already checked (and even changed in some cases) the earth wires in the engine bay. I changed the big main one that goes from the inner wing to the block, and re positioned the other smaller two from the loom-so each earth wire (three) have their own point on the block. Im no electrician, but i presume these are ok, I dont know how to test them :(

I dont know where the other ends of the smaller two go to. All other electrical wires in the engine bay SEEM ok, as in no corrosion, seem intact etc. Is it worth me pulling out the fue box in the engine bay to check the wires there, more thoroughly?

Do I need to be checking the ECU (where ever that is!)?
 
ECU usually has big multi connector and has grease in it for extra protection, but I have seen them on the bangers we strip with corrosion on some pins, even though they are mounted in the car in a supposedly dry place, so yes if you can find it and get at it it is worth pulling the connector and examin very closely, and it is not outside the bounds of possibility that the the ECU also monitors the window force (to stop cut off fingers etc) as well so that could be the link, Rick
 
ECU usually has big multi connector and has grease in it for extra protection, but I have seen them on the bangers we strip with corrosion on some pins, even though they are mounted in the car in a supposedly dry place, so yes if you can find it and get at it it is worth pulling the connector and examin very closely, and it is not outside the bounds of possibility that the the ECU also monitors the window force (to stop cut off fingers etc) as well so that could be the link, Rick

right, cheers Rick, thats at least a job I can do in the evenings so Ill search the forum for the locations-ive heard footwell, behind the dash but thats it!
 
Power steering pumps will bring the idle down a bit, that is why there is a switch on the pump or box that speeds up the idle to compensate, same goes for air con, it is common to find these not working or simply disconnected, RE idling and fuel pumps, if the elements in the pump or injectors are worn then at idling as a miniscule amount of fuel is delivered per stroke, if some of this passes by the worn element to leak off, it will effect the idle, it is not so much of an issue at larger throttle openings as so much more fuel is delivered and the little waste is less important, hope this explains it a little, it is, more complicated, but I have tried to make it easy to understand, Rick

cheers for the info mate:thumbsgives me a place to start looking(when it stops raining)not got air con on mine but its definatley dropping the idle when steering wheel is touched,even the smallest amount of pressure slows down the idle.
 
six pages and no-ones suggested putting a new fuel filter on it ? Start with the cheap and simple stuff Clivvy. Change one thing at a time then you'll suss it out.
 
looks like you have the same idle issue as i have.
did a full service and that got rid of the revs dropping while at idle but it still idles very juddery and the whole car rattles until i increase the revs.
it drives fine with no loss of power just the low idle speed.
will check out the egr valve in the morning as its raining at the mo.

think i did mention it here unless you dont change your fuel filter on a full service:lol
first thing i did so i just assumed clivvy had done his:nenau
 
six pages and no-ones suggested putting a new fuel filter on it ? Start with the cheap and simple stuff Clivvy. Change one thing at a time then you'll suss it out.

already done matey! ive done so much so far ive lost track!
 
also, remember guys, my idle doesnt drop as such, it bounces up and down but not below its set level, which looks to be too low, 650 rpm or there abouts. you can tell when sat inside, everything rattles and bounces when it does it, not majorly, but its there, outside the car you cant tell.
 
Mine now idles at 650rpm anway now Clivvy and doesn't vibrate badly (According to the rev counter)and the pump has been set spot on and recon injectors.....Do you think that some engines should idle at this rpm and that you have worn mounting somewhere causing the vibration maybe.I have the bosch pump and maff.

OR could my rpm be a little low still and need upping .........according to information I have gathered it will need upping on the computer when connected on one of them there diagnostic machines if it does.
 
Mine now idles at 650rpm anway now Clivvy and doesn't vibrate badly (According to the rev counter)and the pump has been set spot on and recon injectors.....Do you think that some engines should idle at this rpm and that you have worn mounting somewhere causing the vibration maybe.I have the bosch pump and maff.

OR could my rpm be a little low still and need upping .........according to information I have gathered it will need upping on the computer when connected on one of them there diagnostic machines if it does.

as far as I know, it should be 750rpm -+, if you put your foot on the pedal ever so slightly, and up it to the 750rpm mark, youll see a marked improvement, but how you achieve that idle speed full time, I have no idea! Its very hard to describe my idle thing, it really is. it isnt constant, so cant be anything worn i wouldnt think. And it doesnt do it at regular intervals, its very low, very intermittent, and sometimes worse than other times. will try to do a video or soemthing on one of the days its bad...
 
been chatting with a guy today about the idle issue that i have got and he told me it was the advance/retard sensor on the injection pump that was probably shot.cost around £90 for a new one.
not sure if its true but could be worth investigating:nenau
 
been chatting with a guy today about the idle issue that i have got and he told me it was the advance/retard sensor on the injection pump that was probably shot.cost around £90 for a new one.
not sure if its true but could be worth investigating:nenau

well, i have no idea what that is, but it very much sounds like the problem i have, and would explain the random ecu error i get relating to the pump sensor wotsit. for £90, if it was a definate fix for my idling issue, id pay it now. the car has still not let me down, its been fine, but for peice of mind, id be very happy to pay the £90 to fix, so ill start googleing!
 
from what i understand its in the injector pump and has to be sent to a specialist.fuel quantity adjuster sensor is what he called it.
found this while i was doing a searchhttp://forums.preloved.co.uk/fuseaction-forums.showdiscussion/thread_id-53468/8b85c97f.html
might not be relevent but some usefull info all the same.

to be honest mate, thats probably exactly the issue i have, as the one re occuring fault code i get is, ta da, fuel quantity adjuster poition sensor.

so, with that in mind, what are my options, take the car to a diesel specialist, have them remove the pump, and essentially refurbish it, and replace that sensor?

are we talking big money here? how common are already refurbed pumps? for a change im not worried, but id kinda like to get stuff sorted on the mav because i love it.
 

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