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Sounds like air in the system Adam, get someone to pump the pedal while you bleed it. Keep going until new fluid is right through the system. :thumbs

Mick

yeh Mick i agree with you, i flushed it all though and it is much better but stupidly as i was bleeding i didnt top up enough and some air got in to the system, i have flushed and flushed and flushed nearly a liter though (with help) but i cant seem to get the air out. any tips?

it drive fine then the clutch goes again i pump it a few times and it is back so defo air in the system just cant get rid of it.

any ideas?? :bow
 
Hmmm, when I bleed anything on a vehicle I use a old glass jar and a length of transparent tube (fish tank or windscreen washer pipe), I only open the bleed nipple on the downward stroke of the pedal, and get whoever is pressing the pedal (usually my wife :kissy) to hold the pedal down while I tighten the bleed nipple.:naughty
Then do it all again until bubbles stop appearing in the jar, but you must keep the master cylinder topped up!

So, press clutch pedal down and open the bleed nipple as this is happening.
Hold down clutch pedal until the nipple is tightened up (this is essential).
Release clutch pedal, and repeat process until all air has been expelled.
Get the pedal pusher to keep an eye on the master cylinder every 2 or 3 downward strokes of the pedal.:thumb2

Hope this makes sense.:naughty

I might be teaching egg sucking here, but...............
Put about an inch or so (2.5mm/3.5mm) of brake/clutch fluid in the jar, attach one end the tube to the bleed nipple, and the other end goes in the jar as visual aid to seeing any bubbles of air. Make sure the tube is always below the surface of the fluid in the jar.

You may know all this already, if so I apologise!



Mick
 
Last edited:
You may know all this already, if so I apologise!



Mick

no need to apologise that is perfect and spot on and that is what i have been doing but i cant seem to get rid of the bubbles, i can see them in the pipe the pipe that i have attached to the bleed nipple and no matter how much i bleed and top up etc it keeps showing small bubbles in the line as it is bleeding out.

i assume there should be no little bubbles in the bleed line (pipe to the jar)

i am sure this is why the clutch comes and goes and why if i pump it it gets better.
 
Thats how I had to do it as well...

I started out using my self bleed kit, which has a one way valve on the end of the clear pipe, but I think it was sucking air back in round the bleed nipple thread, so I ended up getting my wife to pump the pedal, and keep an eye on the reservoir, while I opened and closed the bleed nipple.

Just a point, you did find the bleed nipple at the back of the car above the rear axle as well?

I could not make my mind up what way round to bleed the system, so I started at the top, then did the slave, then did the damper pipe, then went back and did the slave, finally doing a couple of extra pumps back through the top. You only get about 3 or 4 pumps, before you have to fill the reservoir back up, so it's a lot easier with 3 people.
 
Just a point, you did find the bleed nipple at the back of the car above the rear axle as well?.

thank you Lazy-Ferret for the info, lol nope didnt even think there was another one, thought there was only one on the slave, would i need to bleed from this nipple as well? all the videos i have looked at and guides on the net dont speak of a rear nipple only the one on the slave? is the terrano different from normal cars?

I could not make my mind up what way round to bleed the system, so I started at the top, then did the slave, then did the damper pipe, then went back and did the slave, finally doing a couple of extra pumps back through the top. You only get about 3 or 4 pumps, before you have to fill the reservoir back up, so it's a lot easier with 3 people.

For the befit of the dumbo (ME) can you please explain what you mean by 'Top' 'Slave' 'Damper' i have done the slave but what is the top and what is the damper is that the rear nipple and would that be bled in the same way?

... or are you talking about breaks as i am talking about the clutch? :doh
 
Adam, on the Terrano and Mavericks they have a clutch damper.
It's a brake/clutch pipe that goes from the slave cylinder to the rear of the vehicle, where there's another bleed nipple, don't ask ....................:nenau
I think it takes a bit of rumble and feedback out of the clutch mechanism through the pedal.


Have a look at your slave cylinder to see if there is a pipe off it running rearwards, it's possible that you might not have one.:thumbs


Mick
 
For the befit of the dumbo (ME) can you please explain what you mean by 'Top' 'Slave' 'Damper' i have done the slave but what is the top and what is the damper is that the rear nipple and would that be bled in the same way?

... or are you talking about breaks as i am talking about the clutch? :doh

Mine is a 1999 T2, and it has (had) 3 bleed nipple on the clutch system. 1 up on the master cylinder, the one on the slave, and a third one at the rear of the car just above the rear axle on the RHS as you sit in the car facing the front.

If you look at the flexible rubber pipe that goes to the Slave cylinder, at the other end to the pipe to the cylinder, there is a metal block, and leaving this block, is 2 pipes, a smaller one up to the Master cylinder, plus a bigger pipe that runs to the back of the car with the fuel and brake pipes.

This pipe is apparently a damper pipe, to stop clutch judder, but many people on here, including me, have disconnected this pipe, blanking off the hole in the square block, or some have replaced the flexible pipe with a front flexible brake pipe to completely get rid of the block as well. So far I have had no noticeable negative effect from removing it, and it is a lot easier to bleed now...
 
This pipe is apparently a damper pipe, to stop clutch judder,...

i think i may have this as i get clutch judder lol when shifting down so will have a look.

many thanks

i will update you asap

can thank you guys enough for the help :bow
 
there is no feed to the rear there is a hard line from the master to a soft line that links to the slave that is it,

i am struggling to find the bleed nipple in the master? as think this will be good to get the air out

thanks for the support folks buying you all beers when i am back in the uk
 
i could be wrong , but it could also draw air in perhaps ( i know nuffin , just random thoughts of an idiot )
 
GAME OVER


oh well folks... just took the car out for a spin and lost the clutch pedal totally, all fluid has gone and it made its way out the slave,

i went to a local garage and he said it is most likely i have put to much pressure in the line from altering the pedal and blew it out,

booked in tomorrow will keep you posted,

thanks for the help.
 
Ohhh no...

to be honest though, it may just have been all the extra use from bleeding the clutch and it was actually the slave cylinder that was pulling in the air in the first place.

When I first started driving, my car which was about 20 years old, was a bit of a mechanical state, and the brake fluid was in a right state, probably not changed in a very very long time, if ever. When I got it, the rear brakes were seized and not working, so while changing the rear cylinders, and doing a full service I changed the brake fluid as well. It was a Black/Brown sludge, and was so thick, I had to take the bleed nipples out, as it kept clogging them up.

I set to bleeding the brakes, but could not get the air out, and had to give up until I could talk to my dad, as I thought I was doing something wrong. When he looked, I had killed the master cylinder while bleeding. It turned out that the unused bit of the Master cylinder had corroded and was really rough, so while bleeding, I was using the whole cylinder including the bit that does not normally get used at the bottom where the roughness was, and it took out the seal.

I wonder if as your fluid was in such a state, if your slave was as bad.

Interesting you don't have the damper pipe on that model, or from the sounds of it, the extra bleed nipple on the master cylinder either, at least you know it was not either of them causing the problem:augie.

You can see mine, ringed in red.
clutchmasternipple_zps8d9f68c8.jpg
 
Ohhh no...
clutchmasternipple_zps8d9f68c8.jpg

i know tell me about it, like your story i often wait for my dad to look at things bit he mostly he says stuff like ' what have you done' and 'why do you always mess with things?' lol

i have been happily smashing it about in my newly fixed ($550) terrano and on my drive the normal groan from the gear box has gotten a lot louder, previous posts and help helped me to diagnose that it was a worn gear box bearing but on the long drive the noise got louder, bit in 1st bit in 2nd louder in 3rd if high revs, nothing in 4th, and in 5th over 60 it is horrible, rum rum rum rum a mechanical grinding noise, like before just not a little noise a big noticeable pain in the a£%3 that scares me to death as i am worried i will right off the box.

trip to the mechanic again i think. just a shame i am 300 miles out of town and have to take it to a little local place, but from what i have seen local ozzy boys are the best so i will let you know,,,,

could it be just an increased noise and can i still drive it and just put up with it or (as my mechanic said on the phone) do i risk damaging the box as the 'cluster' is noisy.... not sure what that is think it is a number of gears used in 1,2,3 and 5 and not used in 4th?

cheers folks

ad
 
Help Now Needed

HELP NEEDED

right folks i took it in and the chap said ' your gear box is not very well' the scratching from the box has gotten worse (but nothing in 4th) anyway the guy said i need a recon box as all the bearings are making noise, he said (very honest of him) that i could drive it until it 'Sh1t'2 Itself' (got to love the ozzys) or pay to get it fixed as in both instances it will cost the same.

the big problem is the cost $2000 to fix the box, everything is expensive here but that is out of this world.

he advised a change of oil and oil stabaliser to quieten it down and reduce wear, now i did this and the noise has gone form 9 out of 10 to 5 out of 10 but i can still hear it scratching, the gear box plug didnt look too brill, it was wearing a big metal wig :



at least no big chunks ah.... well all the rubbish is out and the new oil and stabaliser is in.... the big question now is ...

Can i drop the box myself, i will save loads on labour if i drop the box and take it in myself, i am on a farm and have access to a ramp and tools just need to know (from your experience) if it can be done by a novice?

any advice would be great,

please help Adam who is stuck in Oz with non of his mates

thanks

ad
 
or just drive it till it breaks what so you guys think, i am told it could just be noisy for ever but i am scared i will do lasting damage .....

what would you do ??


thanks folks:bow
 
Drive it till it breaks mate, mine has some serious rattle on idle, but its smooth as hell

I read on ausie forums that not all the bearings are immersed and the upper bearing relys heavily on splash lube, but you need to over fill the box by 1 ltr to get any oil on this bearing, so it collapses. I think its the input shaft bearing

I'm going to do mine at some point, drain it, jack it up on 1 side so its leaning then I can get that extra litre in the box
 
Drive it till it breaks mate, mine has some serious rattle on idle, but its smooth as hell

thanks stinka that is what i was thinking, i put some thick oil in and that has made it a bit better and 4.5l of oil may add more

would you say up to 5ltrs ?

cheers

ad

oh and mine is easy i can fill it from the top so easy to get the extra in.
 

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