Glow Plug Relay Failure

[Banshee]

So my car isn't starting from cold :doh, takes almost all of the batteries capacity to get it to fire just after it's fogged the street out with Grey smoke

I've had all 4 plugs out, done the jump lead test and they are all fine, tested the voltage across the bus bar and there is nothing at any of the plugs. The relay is clicking and I'm getting the glow plug light on the dash but they are 100% not being heated

Am I right in thinking it's most likely the glow plug relay here? It's the one that's in a little recess next to the battery?

Silly position if you ask me as looking at it, it's full of dirt and road salt :doh

Anyone have a spare for a 2004 2.7TDi? I'm desperate as having to start the car with Easy Start at the moment, don't want to damage my new battery

Cheers Guys

 

[bud]

Temprary solution to get it started while hunting down a replacement is to use a jumper lead direct from the. Battery too the glow plug rail for 3to 4 seconds.... do that twice then crank it.

 

[Banshee]

Temprary solution to get it started while hunting down a replacement is to use a jumper lead direct from the. Battery too the glow plug rail for 3to 4 seconds.... do that twice then crank it.

Good call, but my jump leads are a bit heavy duty and wouldn't get in there, could I just get a piece of wire with a spade or a crocodile clip on one end and another crocodile clip on the other and just clip it on the positive terminal of the battery for about 10 seconds and then get in and start it as normal after removing the wire?

 

[Banshee]

Temprary solution to get it started while hunting down a replacement is to use a jumper lead direct from the. Battery too the glow plug rail for 3to 4 seconds.... do that twice then crank it.

BTW!!!! Where have you been, I've missed your off roading stories and pictures.

Last I remember reading, you'd buckled your Calmini arm hadn't you?

 

[carpy33]

So my car isn't starting from cold :doh, takes almost all of the batteries capacity to get it to fire just after it's fogged the street out with Grey smoke

I've had all 4 plugs out, done the jump lead test and they are all fine, tested the voltage across the bus bar and there is nothing at any of the plugs. The relay is clicking and I'm getting the glow plug light on the dash but they are 100% not being heated

Am I right in thinking it's most likely the glow plug relay here? It's the one that's in a little recess next to the battery?

Silly position if you ask me as looking at it, it's full of dirt and road salt :doh

Anyone have a spare for a 2004 2.7TDi? I'm desperate as having to start the car with Easy Start at the moment, don't want to damage my new battery

Cheers Guys

That sounds like a issue with the supply to the bus bar rather than the glow plug relay. Have you taken the bus bar off, cleaned it and then seen what power you have going on to your first glow plug?? The amount of rubbish we get in the electrical wiring plays havoc with the connections etc.

Give it a good clean, check the wiring and see if that makes any difference. :thumb2

 

[Madmark]

If you don't get any joy with original system you can make ya own glow system with 80amp relay and a push button and some wire etc. You'll have a push button in dash going through a relay to the buzz bar. So you just push button for ten seconds then start simples. we just done it to dad's truck as his controll box was gonna cost silly money through nissan being a rare imported truck so this was next best option and we we're able to hide all wiring so looks good

 

[jims-terrano]

I know access is difficult but any chance of being able to get a multimeter on the terminals of the glow plug relay? Surely you'll get the voltage to turn relay on as well as main live feed and the relay switched feed to the plugs.
If I remember correctly you might end up removing the battery and connecting up via your jump leads.

 

[rustic]

Now here is a thought...
I believe there is temperature sensor on the thermostat housing that is used to check the temperature of the engine that then changes the time the glowplugs are powered.

So if this is shorted, ( or open circcuit, depending on the type of thermistor in the sensor), it would think that the temperature was high, and not energise the glow plugs.

I have never tried it, and I can't even confirm that the glow plugs are not used on a hot engine ( or what looks like a hot engine).

So this could be a red herring...

But if revently you have been working around the sensors by the thermostat housing, it might be worth checking.:nenau
Edit to add...
The Td glowplug controller starts on full power, then drops to lower power via a dropper resistor.
The Tdi glowplug controller starts on full power, but the power is pulse modulated, at various mark- space ratios to gradually limit the power.
This part of the control is done by the ECU, so the relay might not be the initial problem.
Having said that, the glowplug light is driven by the ECU on the Tdi, and that seems to be working, so it could be the wiring from the ECU to the relay.
It can also be the relay module it'self as your original diagnosis. So some checking with a multimeter is essential.

 

[Banshee]

So I've removed the relay on my lunch at work, it's a terrible location to mount it as it sits in a recess that is fully exposed to the crap that they tyres are flicking up at it (not sure if that is because of I'm missing some kind of wheel arch liner)

The bracket is easily accessible with the battery in place using a 10mm socket and ratchet, then it's just a case of removing the 3 plugs into it and it's free.

The pins look a bit rotten in the socket but the internals are mint

I may just try cleaning the plugs and try it again tonight

 

[Banshee]

I've cleaned up the spades underneath the socket

Going to clean up the wires and plugs on the car when I leave the office and then soak both in GT85 and hope for the best

 

[Madmark]

The two smaller terminals are what make relay opperate so stick some wires on the and stick one on - and one on + and see if it clicks

 

[Banshee]

The two smaller terminals are what make relay opperate so stick some wires on the and stick one on - and one on + and see if it clicks

It does click but it sounds weird, doesn't click as loud or for as long if that makes sense

 

[Banshee]

So I've put it all back together and now it's not even clicking at all :doh

 

[jims-terrano]

Banshee buddy, wish you lived closer to me pal cos ive got one on a shelf in the garage. not even sure if it's a brandnew one, can't remember if I took the new one off because it didn't cure the fault.

 

[Banshee]

Banshee buddy, wish you lived closer to me pal cos ive got one on a shelf in the garage. not even sure if it's a brandnew one, can't remember if I took the new one off because it didn't cure the fault.

Bugger!!! Got one in the post from James tomorrow so I should be ok

What fault did you have?

 

[Sweety]

Oh no feel for you Banshee you been hit with the silver motor curse like me:doh

 

[Banshee]

Oh no feel for you Banshee you been hit with the silver motor curse like me:doh

Hahaha you any closer to resolving yours mate?

I hope to have this fixed soon

 

[solarman216]

any generic 70 amp relay will work fine same size as all the other relays on the T2 this is a Ford one as an example, Rick

 

[Sweety]

Not really went to strip the wiring to the drivers door & what I thought was just a rubber boot like most cars isn't it's like HD heat shrink so the only way in is to cut it open:doh going to have to think of a way of sealing it up after cutting it but going to get a new multimeter first as mine which is rather old doesn't do conductivity tests as I would rather test from the plug on the door motor to the plug in the A post first to see if it shows up any breaks before cutting it open.
I'm sure i'm cursed with silver motors first one I had was in 2 crashes & was written off by an uninsured driver, only had it 6 months, second one had cam belt & rear springs snap on me plus other repairs & almost got banned from driving in that motor (oops I was young) & then it got stolen & burnt out:doh

 

[Banshee]

Not really went to strip the wiring to the drivers door & what I thought was just a rubber boot like most cars isn't it's like HD heat shrink so the only way in is to cut it open:doh going to have to think of a way of sealing it up after cutting it but going to get a new multimeter first as mine which is rather old doesn't do conductivity tests as I would rather test from the plug on the door motor to the plug in the A post first to see if it shows up any breaks before cutting it open.
I'm sure i'm cursed with silver motors first one I had was in 2 crashes & was written off by an uninsured driver, only had it 6 months, second one had cam belt & rear springs snap on me plus other repairs & almost got banned from driving in that motor (oops I was young) & then it got stolen & burnt out:doh

I'd rather keep the OEM relay Rick, keep it simple