Gearbox Problems

[Deleted Member S]

Help I think i've broke my toy again :roll: I've had a slight rattle that shows it's face no & again on the g/box since I got it but the gear change has always been smooth & haven't had any noise from it whilst driving. Well today we went down to the Dales to Dadba's little meet & all was fine untill we did a couple of lanes, I had to use 4L to climb a hill but after getting to the top & sellecting 2H I noticed I had a whine/rattle sound in 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear but 4th & 5th it's as quiet as a mouse. You can feel a slight vibration comming through under the centre console in front of the hand brake :? :?
I've been out & checked the prob UJ's which don't seem to have any play in them but I found a very slight bit of play where the prop enters the cup thing at the rear of the g/box. The play is about 1/2-1mm. I've regreased the UJ's & am going to check the g/box oil level when it stops raining.
Whats got me is that it has just happened :? is my g/box dead :?:

 

[Deleted Member S]

Well I have managed to check the oil level in the g/box & it's lovely & clean (still golden) 8O The level is down a bit from the filler plug so will prob get 1/2 - 1 litre as my drive is on a slight slope :roll: so thats a job for tomorrow

 

[Deleted Member]

I'm sure it'll be fine pal,never heard any noise from where i was!! :wink:
Was there not a thread about over filling the box to get best lub??
:wink: :lol:

 

[rustic]

I found a very slight bit of play where the prop enters the cup thing at the rear of the g/box. The play is about 1/2-1mm.

Hi Sweety, The rear prop shaft slides into the gearbox, this is a sliding joint, so I would expect some play here, mine has a little as well.
There may be a slight amount of oil leakage from the seal.
From what I have read on previous threads, it could be the input bearing to the gearbox as the noise isn't in 4th or 5th.
I have added the extra 1/2 litre of oil and molyslip and multiglide several months ago as my box whined a little when decelerating whilst in gear.
The molyslip has helped.
I guess other members will advise as to the symptoms before they had to have a new or recon box, so you can see if this is really the issue.
I assume that the front hubs are properly disengaged.
The problem with these vehicles is that taking out the gearbox just to check a bearing is a major task.
I wonder if "Gearbox man" is worth contacting for some advice.
best regards,
Rustic

 

[Deleted Member S]

Hi Cosmic the noise & vibration can be heard from the inside as Paul noticed :roll:
Thanks Rustic I will give Gearboxman a PM. The noise is only there when your putting power through the box, on over run it's quiet :? It's just got me how it's come about & that the T2 has only done 72K

 

[Deleted Member S]

Well i've over filled the box & it's just the same :roll: I have noticed it seams ok for the 1st 1/2 mile until the oil warms up a bit :evil:
Anyway I was wondering if anyone has taken their G/box out & what was involved :roll: I know if I do it I'll have to remove the starter, props & g/box X member but it's the torsion bars thats got me, can you just undo the carrier for them & lower them down or do you have to slacken off the adjusters & remove them :? Is there any thing else that has to be done :?: If I do do it, it'll be done on my drive & prob just me doing it

 

[Paul]

Neil been thinking about this, Wondering if it's the thrust brg? Read somewhere about the arm wearing & the brg wearing out .

Paul.

 

[CaptLimey]

Gearbox problems

Hi Sweety

Sorry to be the bearer of sad tidings but I experienced similar noise/vibration on my '96 T2. It eventually got worse to the extent that there were some really weird noises coming from the box on over run.

The noise was eventually most evident in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th, also reverse. I understand that in 4th gear power is transferred direct without going through the counter gear shaft and therefore does not place a side pressure on the main input shaft bearing. But I'd defer to those knowledgeable in gearbox matters for a more accurate diagnosis.

I finally bit the bullet and installed a recon box which, of course, cured the noise problem completely.

The old box allowed a marked sideways movement of the main input shaft, indicating that the main drive gear bearing had worn excessively. When the oil was drained parts of a bearing cage and even teeth from a gear were seen in the old oil. This increasing noise problem took place over a period of about a month of light use of the vehicle.

Regarding replacing the box yourself, I recall that there was a thread showing the procedure followed by another member, including photographs but I haven't been able t find it - sorry. Deeper research of the forums might find it.

I do recall that it was possible to detach and wedge the torsion bars with blocks of wood to allow the removal of the box. That was only possible if the vehicle was supported other than on the front wheels, e.g. using axles stands to take the weight at the front of the chassis. It was also suggested that the transfer box be separated from the main box before dropping it to lessen the weight of the conjoined two.

Hope this helps and GOOD LUCK!

CL

 

[Deleted Member S]

I can remember the probs you were having & yes mine is starting to look the same but has only done 72K 8O I'm going to have to price it up for a recon box but my main prob is, if I do it then it's going to be just little old me dropping it out with the help of my trolly jack :roll: I've got to the point now that i'm getting really fed up with my T2 & TBH would'nt mind seeing the back of it :roll: I don't think even landy's brake this much & I think it's rotting faster than a landy aswell :roll: So am going to have a look at a 52 plate LWB T2 basic spec in the next few days & a 2000 Disco at the same garage.

 

[thor]

I am the same as you sweety, I like my little truck, bouncing and shaking me as I go, recently had a water pump done and it's going in again cos it's not sealed properly, my gear box has some odd noises and I keep looking at other 4x4s Range Rovers etc... I cannot go over 70... NOW WHY WOULD I WANT TO DO THAT 8O this beind due to vibration [unable to get a perfect balance on wheels] but as my wife says it's not dead yet it's still going........I just don't want it to die somewhere miles away, when I am doing something important.....so do I run her till death do us part, or jump ship now?? :roll:

 

[rustic]

There are often gearboxes for sale on ebay, here is one for £175 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/terrano-or-ma...rkparms=72:12|39:1|65:12&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 This is for the earlier model.

The problem with second hand, is what condition is this box in.
I noticed that there are also refurb kits, that include the front input shaft and bearing, a common problem with these boxes.

Question 1
Looking at the picture of the gear box above, it would be easier to take off the transfer box first, BUT do you get oil loss, or are they seperate boxes and you just need a new gasket, or not even that?

Question 2
To replace the input shaft and bearing, do you have to split the box open, or can you go in through the bell housing?

Question 3
What weights are we looking at for the gearbox, and the transfer box, and how much ground clearance is needed to get the box(s) out?

I wonder what price Gearbox man could do the whole job for?
At least he is only 15-20 miles from me, should it happen?

I am aware having had my Mav from new, and I intend to keep it, that at some point I, like many others, might be in the same unfortunate position as Sweety.
Having owned the Mav for nearly 14 years, it is still the cheapest car I have ever owned, when you look at spare parts (not fuel though :lol: )

best regards,
Rustic

 

[Toolbox]

“Question 1
Looking at the picture of the gear box above, it would be easier to take off the transfer box first, BUT do you get oil loss, or are they separate boxes and you just need a new gasket, or not even that?”

You can separate the transfer box from the gear box ok, you will need to drain the oils as the transfer box is open at the point that it is split and will require some instant gasket on its replacement.
I replaced mine in my old T2 in this manner and found it easy on my own, especially when it came to putting the gearbox on to the engine, you can hold the box up and turn the shaft coming out of the gearbox to line it up in the clutch.

“Question 2
To replace the input shaft and bearing, do you have to split the box open, or can you go in through the bell housing?”

Unfortunately you will have to remove the insides from the housing but if only the front bearing is to be changed, you will not need to completely strip it just down as far as the picture below.

“Question 3
What weights are we looking at for the gearbox, and the transfer box, and how much ground clearance is needed to get the box(s) out?”

Not sure on the weight but the gearbox on its own is easy to handle, the transfer box is a bit heavier. I did mine with about 2 feet clearance from the ground. The higher you can get it the easier it will be.

 

[rustic]

Thanks Toolbox, I'm sure this will give confidence for some members to try it for themselves or indeed leave it to the more professional people.
Thanks for spending the time in answering my questions.
Best regards,
Rustic

 

[wanaron]

just alittle comment thats going off the subject a bit, but bought up by Thor, is it a common fault on t2s to be unable to attain aperfect balance on the front wheels? Had new tyres on and balanced, but still get a wheel wobble albeit slight at around 55.

Wayne

 

[Deleted Member S]

Well bit of an up date :roll: I have phoned a garage who deals with reconditioning G/boxes & thay have quoted £575+vat which = £675.62 :roll: That to take the box out & replace all of the bearings :roll: do you think this is a good price for the job :?:
Now the big prob if I go ahead with it do I get the clutch done at the same time as it's done 73K or do I leave it as it'll take about 4 years before I get to 110K by which time i'll hopefully will have saved up enough for a Patrol :? :? :?

 

[Deleted Member]

I've seen your driving m8,,,,,Get the clutch done as well!! :lol:

 

[Deleted Member S]

I've seen your driving m8,,,,,Get the clutch done as well!! :lol:

What to you mean by that M8 8O :lol: :lol: I don't slip the clutch just quick gear changes :roll:

 

[mav]

I think i would get it done too, if you then decide to sell it and you have kept the receipts it has to be good news for the new owner and a good selling point.

Mav.

 

[Mundy]

8O is it Not worth getting a new gearbox? or are they more expensive than that, probably worth getting clutch done at same time. is that how long the clutches last 110k?

 

[Deleted Member S]

Hi Mundy :smile: not sure on the price of a new box but I would think they would be at least £400 for a recon one then you have the fitting of it on top so it would prob cost more than to have mine sorted out as the gear changes are fine just getting very noisy now. I'm poss it's been mention on here before that the clutches can often make it to 120K before they say good bye but some do die before that though