Funky steering!!

[makeitfit]

Thought about machining out and pressing in a bearing then a bolt through. Just not sure how the bearing would cope?

Been there, done that, it's poo
The problem is the twist in the system under load. That's why I ended up making the steering arm forked to take out all the twist :thumbs

 

[Bigbunny2007]

That's what I'm thinking custom forked arm and bolted through bearing :thumb2
With the rose joints bolted onto the link bar I suppose it won't be a mahousive job to change it if it wears!
Same idea with the steering arm me thinks :nenau

 

[makeitfit]

Like mine then

All in situ like this

 

[elty001]

I've got one of these also minus the monster tie bar.

 

[makeitfit]

I've got one of these also minus the monster tie bar.

Works a treat doesn't it :thumb2 Just make sure you check your nuts frequently :sly

 

[elty001]

Yep it does, still keep over steering though as I was so used to the sloppy standard set up :lol

 

[Bigbunny2007]

Not sure this image will work but hopefully its a picture of new bearing for the link bar. :thumbs

 

[makeitfit]

Not sure this image will work but hopefully its a picture of new bearing for the link bar. :thumbs

Where will that fit ?

 

[Bigbunny2007]

Its going to be pressed into the link bar once ive machined it out. Then it will sit between the new modded steering idler and steering forks.... Boom!

 

[makeitfit]

Its going to be pressed into the link bar once ive machined it out. Then it will sit between the new modded steering idler and steering forks.... Boom!

Hmmm, maybe not boom :augie
It looks like a kind of rose joint without the threaded bit, so there's a small ball in the middle ? If so it's not a good idea . One of the main reasons for the forked steering arms is to get a tight fit onto the drag link. That is what eliminates the inherent twist in the system. Twist is bad and sloppy
In my opinion anyway.
Discuss

 

[Bigbunny2007]

Limited twist as the fork will limit it on both idler and steering arm machined to precision giving equal amount on each side. Not happy with a bolt that needs checking all the time to see if its coming loose!! Should be no reason a little movement up or down will make any difference but time will tell!? Doing this first and leaving standard tie rods. It is a rise joint basically same just called a swivel joint. It has a grease groove in them so ill be fitting a nipple to allow lubrication!

 

[makeitfit]

That's what I thought . It's a shame a lower profile version isn't available. I spent weeks trying to find something to no avail
Good plan with the grease nipple action

 

[Bigbunny2007]

The link bar is 20 mm thick and the bearing is 21 mm thick so its not going to have much room to move, I'll see how it goes and report back

 

[makeitfit]

Ah well in that case it wont have any room to twist :thumbs
Good find

 

[Bigbunny2007]

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag102/Bigbunny2007/WP_20141004_005_zpseeb8f487.jpg

Braced the idler arm this morning just need to machine the hole out now next week to suit the bolt for the new bearing in the link bar.
The brass is to make some new idler arm bushes as the plastic ones are poo! Going to make it like a top hat bush so it will hopefully make the whole set up alot stronger. Basically as you see the plastic one there but out of brass! :thumb2

 

[Bigbunny2007]

Here is the bush!!

 

[makeitfit]

Ah right, didn't realise you were re-using the old idler :augie In that case I recommend you knock up one of these too :thumbs

That'll help take the strain off the poor thing

 

[Bigbunny2007]

That's the badger, already has one of them on. Re using the standard idler for now, I'm lanning on the 18th Oct so need to get it back on her wheels asap! If I know my bearing will be ok ill make a new idler arm from solid which ill make it a whole lot beefier!! Looking at the motor today my drivers side compression rod is not tight!!! Could this have come loose!! This may explain more toe in on that side!?

 

[makeitfit]

Be warned regarding the steering idler "making a new one " . It's one of those no no things for SVA testing etc You can modify the arms by adding material and strength, but if you make one from scratch you are technically in the do doos .
Comp rod issues ? Hmm, if the bush has gone then it will affect the toe in / out and does feel horrible . It can sometimes be the chassis plate that it goes through opening out and even corroding. There's a pretty big nut on the end as far as I remember and unlikely to come loose.
I had one fail on me at the end of a days offroading Had an interesting 40 mile drive home with a sweet speed of about 40 it ws bearable with very gentle steering. Any faster or slower was dyer
Investigate I guess :nenau
Good luck :thumbs

 

[solarman216]

Re post 35 bigbunny, your welding is great but it is a cast steel lump original and cannot help thinking your welding will have weakened it considerably, instead of beefing it up I think you have made a weak point, sorry mate, Rick