FT’s Patrol Project

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Hi FT, I have just read the whole saga and you have been busy.:thumb2
I have just checked my Terrano as I have 2 keys, one that starts the car and the other doesn't,when I fit the correct key, the NATS light stays off when the ignition lights are on,but with the wrong key, the NATS light comes on when the ignition lights are on.
Hope this helps:)

That kills my thoughts on it then, :lol
 
Do hope you get it sorted as you've did some serious work:thumb2

Just been checking my Trol over as it due its MOT next month and I'm glad I did:eek:

Rear offside chassis rail is rotten:eek: nearside is perfect as I injected it with Dinitrol a few years back and I must have missed the rear of the offside as there is no coating on the inside at the rear:doh

Just spent all day removing bumper, towbar and fuel tank to get access as all the corrosion is on the inside, outside ok. Don't need to take body off, but will need to cut off rear bracket to get access:doh weld in new section and reattach bracket, just ordering some 2mm sheet now. So just about to strike out the grinder:eek:

Glad I did check it as we were due to go away in caravan at the weekend, but me thinks I would be rather unsafe to do this and I don't fancy the Trol parting company with my £20k+ caravan, so weekend is cancelled and its time to strike out the MIG. Will let you know how I get on.

:nenau
 
Sorry guy's for not replying earlier. I do appreciate everybody's thoughts on the subject. Unfortunately I still have not had any time to take a closer look at it.

Work is/has been very hectic and that has first priority. However that doesn't mean that I have given up on the Patrol. I am looking forward to get stuck in again when the work eases off. Photo's should follow and I will promise that the car WILL run again one day in the not to distant future.

@Jocky, hope that you got your car sorted. The rear chassis rails do tend to rot on the Patrol. As you say, you can be glad that you looked at it before you went on holiday. I was quite happily towing 2.5 ton trailers around untill I found out that both rear chassis rails were rotten. It is a miracle that I didn't lose half of my chassis. :)
 
Thats mine sorted, rear chassis rail better than new all rust cut out and removed and 2mm steel welded in, also had to do the rear of sills after taking the arch flares off, and bits of the arches were gone:augie

:)
 
Sounds all to familiar. The rear of the sills and parts of the arches are gone on my car too. Oh well keeps me busy for a few more days. :D
 
Before everybody thinks that I have given up I will post a picture of the parts received.

Finally the new Fuel Shutoff Solenoid has arrived together with a new O-ring, nut and some fasteners for the panel below the windscreen.

Late last week another package has arrived which contains some new weatherproof connectors as the wiring to the tail lights was one big mess after somebody did a bit of DIY.

The only thing that I need now is some time off and some decent weather.

Will keep you up to date.
 

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The plan is to put normal tail lights in the top of the upper rear light cluster.

Had a spare front indicator cluster lying around so taken the wires from this and now have to make the holes to fit them to the other.
 

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And as last for today, I made the wires on the light fittings a bit longer and fitted connectors to them. Next job is to fit them into the car and connect them to the main wiring of the car.

Only doing some smaller jobs at the moment as time and weather is sadly lacking for the bigger job of getting the engine running.
 

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Had a bit of spare time today and with the only day of sunshine I had to do something on the Patrol.

As previously shown somewhere in this thread I bought a new aerial for the Patrol. As it is a universal aerial I had to adjust the wiring a bit to make it work. But it has been fitted today and works a treat.

Also installed the new Fuel Shutoff Solenoid today and installed a connector between the wiring. The electrical connection to the solenoid is a ring connector which slides over a threaded stud and which is fixed in place with a nut. However on my old Fuel Shutoff Solenoid the nut was impossible to remove which made removing the Solenoid a pain in the backside. To avoid this problem in the future I installed a normal weatherproof connector in the wiring to the solenoid.

Next job is to make sure that the engine timing is set correctly. Since the problem with the fuelpump started a lot of parts have been loosened or temporarily removed. Markings were made but as the problem is still there I need to check that everything is set right. This should be a very straight forward job as timing marks should be everywhere. Unfortunately no such luck on my car! :doh The timing marking on the crankshaft pulley (a notched 'V') is not there.

Only way to make sure that the timing is set correctly is to remove the camshaft cover and glowplug. With these removed I can set the No.1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke.

Unfortunately I could not do this today as I do like to change the camshaft cover seal and this seal is now on order. When I start the job I will be taking some photo's and post them here.
 
Finally there is another update. :thumbs

Now that we have finally had a few dry days I have done some work on the Patrol. Unfortunately I have to report that she is still not running. I have tried everything that I could think off, so I will have to swallow my pride and get somebody else involved. In my opinion it will either be a problem with the ECM or the Fuel pump but I hope that my friendly mechanic can find the problem when he hooks up the diagnostic equipment.

In the last few days I finished off some work on the interior, fitted new radio aerial and did some fault finding on the tail lights. Photo's to follow.
 
Maybe a bit of an odd question. Has somebody got a spare RD28 engine standing around or knows somebody who has?

No, I don't want to buy it but would like to ask for a massive favour. On the photo below you will see the Fuel pump with a red square drawn around the fuel return. On the left side you see a the head of a bolt, this bolt keeps a ball, spring and some washers in place. The big question is in which order they are installed.

We think that it is bolt, spring, washers (3) and ball. However if somebody has access to a similar fuel pump I would like to get this confirmed.
 

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I have my old one in front of me inside the slotted screw/bolt sit the three little washers, then spring , then ball bearing, that was what it was on my terrano pump and new valve aswell when it arrived!! Unfortunately I never got mine sorted! Good Luck.
Rich..
 
Also take care not to lose the washers from around the banjo and spacer, one at bottom of spacer where it joins pump, then one either side of banjo. Total 3..lol
 
Rich, thank you very much. Wasn't sure if I had lost something but fortunately all is present and correct. Thanks again, that has been of great help. :thumbs
 
It appears to be a non return valve, is that the fuel line coming into it?

Clearly if fitted wrong, then the fuel could go back to the tank.

Have you tried starting with WD 40, in the intake manifold, it should start up if it is a fuelling problem, and then continue on diesel as the fuel lines should now be primed.

If you then switch off wait a few minutes and then if it still won't fire up again, then the fuel is going back to the tank.

An alternative is a fuel tank with a syphon on the roof to make sure you have a flooded supply.

I guess this has been mentioned before in this thread, but I didn't want to trawl through it again.:doh

Best regards, Rustic
 
Hi Rustic,

unfortunately, everything you suggest I have already tried. Personally I am expecting it more to be an electronic problem somewhere between the ECM and fuel pump. (pump is electronically controlled).

Going to see the mechanic today and ask him if he has any other suggestions. Will keep everybody updated.
 
Some new wiring added to the wiring loom which runs to the tail lights and trailer socket.
 

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