FT’s Patrol Project

[Flying Torquewrench]

Had a look at my knuckle flange bearing and it is obvious why there is a bit of play in the bearing. :augie

One of the bearing rollers is missing.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

The outer bearing race in the knuckle flange is also severely pitted.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Removed both outer bearing races from the knuckle flange. Initially I tried to remove them with a brass drift but could not get them to shift. In the end I used my air chisel and they were out in a heartbeat.

In the photo you can see that the hole is not perfectly round. To the left and right are a couple of areas wete you have access to the bearing outer race to tap it out.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

New bearing cap and outer race installed on the top and bottom. The bottom bearing was in good shape but I had a replacement so just changed it.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Also installed a new driveshaft seal.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Postman was very late today but my bearing separator kit finally arrived.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Straight away it was put to good use and the bearings came off quite easily.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

As I haven’t got a press (yet) I needed to be a bit creative to get the new bearings back on. Having a large vice has its advantages.

 

[solarman216]

Yes a large vice has lots of varied uses, I have pressed many a bearing on and off in these but a 6 ton press makes it so much easier, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

I noticed yesterday that I had a couple of drops of coolant hanging off the bell housing. Cleaned them up and put some cardboard underneath to see if it is an active leak. This morning I could see that the cardboard was wet so I have a coolant leak towards the back of the engine.

Haven’t had time to investigate yet but there isn’t much coolant related at the back. Hence why I fear that the block may be leaking somewhere, most likely on the headgasket.

Once the swivel joint is repaired and te truck is back on 4 wheels I will have a look underneath.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Finished off the swivel hub today and had a look to see if I could spot the coolant leak.

I removed the intercooler so that I had good access to the back of the block. Where the head meets the block everything seems nice and dry. To make sure I dried everything off with a cloth and will have another look tomorrow.

What I did notice though is the I have a small coolant leak from the turbo. Gasket B in the photo below seems to be leaking. Not a great deal but just enough to be annoying. Also do I not know if the coolant leaks towards the engine oil as both run next to each other. The hunt for a new gasket is on.

 

[solarman216]

Looking back on your pics of the stub axle you do not have the same seal as mine and only held in with 3 small screws, also what is the purpose of the front cut away in the disk shield? Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Rick, the plate held on with three small screws is not a seal. It just covers the bolts that hold the stub axle in place.

The front cut away in the disc shield is shaped like a scoop. I am not 100% sure but I wonder if it is to force air onto the brake disc to aid cooling. On the wheel side the air can get through the spokes in the rim but with a closed disc shield there would be hardly any air reaching that side.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

A mixture of good and bad news today.

The good news is that I have located the coolant leak on the block. The bad news is that it requires a new head gasket. :doh It is leaking from just below the last exhaust port where the head meets the block.

Having used an aftermarket head gasket I am now trying to source a genuine one. This is most likely coming from Australia so it may take two weeks for it to arrive. At the same time I am getting a couple of genuine rocker cover seals and some gasket for the Turbo coolant/oil inlet and outlet.

A new set of head bolts is also on order. Once it all arrives it shouldn’t take longer than a day or two to get it all sorted.

Yesterday when I started her up the “check engine” light came on briefly. A touch on the throttle saw the engine briefly go in to limp mode before the light went out again. I am thinking that this may have to do with a blocked off EGR valve. Will have to see how she runs after the repairs and otherwise I might have to drill a 10mm hole in the blanking plate. Supposedly this is enough for it not to trigger the check engine light.

 

[Banshee]

Get a 2.8 they said :augie :surrender

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Get a 2.8 they said :augie :surrender

:nenau

I make it too easy for you! Aftermarket parts are letting me down unfortunately. Should have gone genuine from the beginning.

Seen a few photo’s from a guy who put an Isuzu Dmax 2.5l in his Patrol. Took him about a year and grafter the Dmax instrument cluster into the Patrol’s dashboard. Obviously the latter is not good for purists but it looked good.

 

[solarman216]

Rick, the plate held on with three small screws is not a seal. It just covers the bolts that hold the stub axle in place.

Mine is clearly different to yours, as it is indeed a seal, the rubber part (virtually non existent on mine) fits snugly over the hub just like an oil seal, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

I will have a look tomorrow to see what it is called. There are no remnants of a seal in there but you have me wondering now.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Rick, I had a look today and on the Y61 it is called a grease catcher. One assumes that it catchesthe grease coming out of the bearing, if any and avoid it contaminating the brakes.

A little miracle happened today. The local dealer has parts availability for everything I need. It has to come from Amsterdam so should be here towards the end of the week or at the latest early next week. Hopefully she is leak free at the end of next week.

 

[solarman216]

Glad you got your bits sorted, the seals I need, from Oz are dearer than the stealers in this country, Rick