FT’s Patrol Project

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Haven’t got as much done as I had hoped as other things have gotten in the way.
Today I worked on it for a full day and only a couple of hours work left before turning the key.

Unfortunately after finding the big end bearing shell on the ground when installing the pistons I have had a niggling doubt if I hadn’t missed anything else. While I was 99% sure that I hadn’t, the 1% is just too great a risk to take just to save a couple of hours. So today the sump came off and I checked all the bearing shells on the big ends. As expected they were all in place but at least now I have 100% certainty.

Fitted the timing belt, exhaust/inlet manifold, turbo, air filter, alternator and some general bits & bobs.

Also received my new exhaust outlet a few days ago.
 

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The turbo looks nice after is has been reconditioned.

Tomorrow I need to fit the radiator, injectors, fuel lines and refill the oil and coolant. Hopefully when all that is done she will start. :thumbs
 

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Cheers Zac, neither can I. After nearly 3 months it would be good to get her back on the road.:thumb2

Bit of an anti climax today. My stock keeping was not up to scratch and I ran out of coolant. I thought that I had enough but in the end only had 7 litres. :doh Was also waiting for a new chainsaw to be delivered so couldn’t nip out to pick some up either.

She has turned over on the starter motor with no issues. :thumbs Hopefully the coolant will be delivered tomorrow and I can finally start her up. I am at work over the weekend and off next week so if it isn’t tomorrow it will be Monday.

Will sign off with a photo of the overhauled injectors before they were installed.
 

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Today was the big day. Filled up the remaining bit of coolant and started bleeding the fuel system. The intercooler makes this a bit of a pain as it is difficult to see the injectors. By the time the fuel system was ready the battery was flat. :eek:

Stuck it in quick charge and 5 hours later she was good to go. Waited a little bit longer after the glow plug light went out and she started straight up. No smoke and purring nicely. Let her run for a couple of minutes before switching her off and checking coolant and oil levels.

A few minutes later she started up straight away again so the new glow plugs certainly help.

I haven’t taken her on the road as I have a leaking swivel hub which I would like to fix as the tie rod is off to create space for the removal of the sump. Seems silly to put it back together now and take it apart again in a few days.

The running in oil needs to stay in for 25 hours or 250 miles. When I change this to the normal oil I will also check the valve clearance and adjust as required.
 
No rest for the wicked. :D

Took the swivel hub apart so that I could order parts as required.

The leak is clearly visible. Actually, looking at the resized photo the leak isn’t as clear. There is a mixture of oil and grease at the bottom of the swivel joint.
 

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Started off by removing the wheel, followed by the locking hub. Set the locking hub to “lock” and remove the 6 allan bolts. Then remove the locking hub from the axle stub.
 

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Next remove the brake caliper and the bracket that holds the caliper in place.
 

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Next remove the 2 little screws in the washers and retrieve the washer. Then undo the locking nut and remove it.
Remove the circlip from the a le and remove the seals behind it.
Remove the hub and brake disc as a complete assembly.
 

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Next remove the metal shields. Followed by the 6 bolts that hold on the knuckle assy.

Once the bolts are removed, retrieve the knuckle assy.
 

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Next remove the half shaft. The LH side has the long half shaft where the RH side has a short one.
 

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I cleaned my knuckle flange before removing the metal grease seal guard from the back. Once this is removed the knuckle flange comes apart and the seals can be changed.
There is an option to cut the seals before installing them and glueing them back together once installed. This can be done without removing all the components above. However if the seals leak then there is a bigger issue as there should be no oil in the knuckle flange.

There is a seal through which the half shaft slides into the axle. This seal should stop any oil making its way into the knuckle.
 

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It was pretty clear that mine was leaking oil as the grease on the bottom of the hub had changed colour from mixing with the oil.
 

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My bottom knuckle flange cap has a busted bearing. The bearings rattle in the cage so this also needs to be replaced. A set of new seals, bearings and shims has been ordered.
 

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The parts should arrive tomorrow but I didn’t have a bearing puller small enough to remove the bearing from the knuckle flange cap. This is also on order and should arrive towards the end of the week.

Today my boss kept a close eye on me as he often uses the Patrol when he needs to travel. :D
 

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That bearing looks fine to me although it is water contaminated, on mine I thought it wise to drill in the centre of the cap, thread it and install grease nipples top and bottom, now when been wadding couple of shots with the grease gun helps keep them happy, have you got plenty of the adjustment shims? you will need them with new bearings or they will be too tight, from Nissan they are very expensive and usually not a stock item, Rick
 
Installing grease nipples is not a bad idea at all. Will have a look at installing a couple. The kit I ordered contains all parts required to rebuild the swivel hub including a selection of shims. I also have a few spare shims laying somewhere in the spare parts cupboard.

Unfortunately the bearing is shot. The top bearing is nice and tight while the bottom bearing has lots of play in it. I will see if I can get a better photo tomorrow that shows it a bit clearer.
 
This is the kit I bought. I will get slated for this but I bought it of Milner as they have always been very good to me.
 

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I see they sell the shims separately as well this is good to know, Rick
 

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