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greasemunky

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 13, 2009
Messages
96
ive just set torsion bar height at 37" is this right
i done 1 1/2 " body lift and now a 2" suspension lift im running on 31/10.5 r15 tyres
 
front should be a LITTLE lower then the back, or level, but never higher than the back.
 
that should do, maybe up 1/2" if you want.


dont forget to get the tracking checked though!
 
that should do, maybe up 1/2" if you want.


dont forget to get the tracking checked though!

i had it at 38" but it felt like i was drivin a go-kart there was no suspension wot so ever but i dropprd it and now it seems ok
 
you can reindex it.

that would give you almost normal suspention back, with the extra height.
 
when i did the lift on mine i had to re-index the front torsion bars just to get the lift at the front as i ran out of thread on the adjusters.
went too high the first time i lifted it and the front end was bouncing around like mad:lol:lol
lowered it down so there was about 20mm difference between front and rear.
sits nice when fully loaded with all the tribe,trailer and camping gear.

run out of droop travel quite easily as you can see on my avatar.
looks good but you loose a bit of traction only running on three wheels.
would be nice if someone in this country did the kit to lower the front diff,suspension etc at an affordable price.
 
OK ,so wouldn't it be nice to explain to him why?:thumb2
It may also help others doing a lift etc
Ta:bow

Was busy at the time.

Reindexing does nothing more than give you more adjustment, its like fitting longer bolts in the adjusters (though that wouldn't actually work either).

Only by dropping the whole lower part of the suspension down as mentioned by Elty can you get your droop travel back.

Ultimately the bump stops don't move when you reindex and even if you remove them you don't gain a right lot.



The best method for resetting the ride heght is to follow Nissans instructions in the Workshop manual and then adjust from there. I really need to write it down sometime but IIRC its 6 full turns of the adusters for an inch in height. So reset to standard and then adjust by 12 full turns.

If you don't get your truck truely level side to side it can handle like a dog, constantly rocking across the 2 most heavily weighted wheels. Ultimately it would be nice to set the ride height and then check the corner weights and trim to somewhere near balanced as possible but most people don't have access to corner weight scales unfortunately.
 
On the balancing thing, is the idea to get all 4 wheels equal or just side to side?
If side to side what should the diff be front to back?
 
my understaning would be side to side.


other wise it would be like haveing a twisted chassie..
 
On the balancing thing, is the idea to get all 4 wheels equal or just side to side?
If side to side what should the diff be front to back?

Never done it on a Terrano.


What you are trying to avoid is the effect you get in the pub when one of the legs of the table is too short (you know the one you fold a beer matt up and shove it under the leg) the short leg is the equivalent to an underloaded/adjusted suspension corner - you don't want your car rocking.

Need to check and adjust tyre pressures first.

You can't actually change the front to rear or side to side weight distribution except by moving things around in the car like the battery etc.

The method is take each corner weight and then work out the front to rear and side to side proportions. Then you are aiming to get each wheel as near as possible to its part of the load.


ie if you have a 1 tonne (1000kg) vehicle with a 55/45 front rear and 53/47 left/right proportion te ideals are as follows.

Front Left 1000 x 55% x 53% = 291.5kg
front right 1000 x 55% x 47% = 258.5kg

Rear left 1000 x 45% x 53% = 238.5kg
Rear right 1000 x 45% x 47% = 211.5kg

If you add up those 4 figures you get 1000kg again.


Its not always possible to get bang on but thats what you're aiming for.


Next stage if you're serious is to start moving stuff around, battery, washer bottle, spare wheel etc - not really applicable to a road going 4x4 but the basic principle is the same in that you don't want them to be too far out so its important to et te ride height set as close to perfect as possible.
 
BTW the above is the real reason that competiton cars have coilovers, sure they can adjust the ride height but the reality is this is often done by changing springs and once set is rarely moved that often. But coilovers do give you the option to adjust the corner weights to get as near to ideal as possible.
 
Terranosaraus-

So if when I get my new t2 for off-roading, I want 2 inch lift, say I can only get 1 inch from just winding torsion bars (know how to do that)
So can if can only get one inch, then can you re-index to get the extra inch?
 
not all need re indexing . it depends on the possition of the torsion bars

you could have had a new gearbox or something and the garage put them in diferent to factory setting
we can only asume the factory set them all in the same possition. but we will never know

re indexing will only give you extra adjustment if you need it. you might not need it

not sure i explained that well enough

basicly you can lift the front on the torsion bars but really only 2" before you loose movement and put it all under too much strain and poor angles.
now you might get this without re indexing your bars most will. but if you need more thread to wind them up you will have to re index to get extra thread
i did mine but found it was not needed because i had it to the max anyway
now they hang down and i will have to sort that one day
 
cheers,

is it easily done this re indexing? would a mechanic know what you meant by it aswell?
 

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