Diff swap ?

[Bigbunny2007]

Haha Pete, that's progress mate! The local Bobby will think it's been stolen!
Zac you can always go back to smaller wheels so let's see your ninny truck on 35's [emoji6]


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[Banshee]

Haha Pete, that's progress mate! The local Bobby will think it's been stolen!
Zac you can always go back to smaller wheels so let's see your ninny truck on 35's [emoji6]


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Ninny truck!!!!! pfffttt

Need to get some 3" springs on first, tweak torsions again and I can bet a whole lot more cutting, can't imagine it was any scarier than the work needed to go 33's from 31's.

Biggest job will be the rear axle swap but having removed one already with a pal I feel more than well equipped to do it again on my truck :naughty

I'll be honest mate, it's just the money I'm short of at the minute, but that should change soon when the Cavalier gets sold, I've already told the misses that any profit from the Cavalier is truck project fund earmarked already :naughty

 

[Bigbunny2007]

Haha, typo mate! Bonny truck!!! This I phone is a pain for its crappy predictive text! Lol


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[Bigbunny2007]

Are they standard springs on yours mate?? I'll swop you for lifted ones if you want?


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[Fez_uk]

Need to get some 3" springs on first, tweak torsions again and I can bet a whole lot more cutting, can't imagine it was any scarier than the work needed to go 33's from 31's.

I would say it's much scarier, You will have to cut loads away.

To be honest if you go 3" springs and the torsion bars fully cranked I can see it being worse offroad.

Going from 33 to 35 you only gain approx 1" diff clearance.

 

[Banshee]

I would say it's much scarier, You will have to cut loads away.

To be honest if you go 3" springs and the torsion bars fully cranked I can see it being worse offroad.

Going from 33 to 35 you only gain approx 1" diff clearance.

I feared there would be lots and lots of cutting

Yeah full twist on those torsions doesn't look ideal I've seen the angle of Alex's CVJ's , being my road going motor and all, I don't want to compromise on road handling for aesthetics and if it makes it worse of road then maybe I should stay at 33's for now.

What are your views on SAS conversions Fez? I know a lot of work and a lot of money but I like different and just want to be unique and practical. I just worry that when I run out off things I can do to it that I'll sell up and get a new project and start over on something else

I have to keep up with the erratic tendencies that are manifested by by ADHD

 

[Banshee]

Are they standard springs on yours mate?? I'll swop you for lifted ones if you want?


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Nah bro got 2" lift springs from jimny bits

 

[Fez_uk]

What are your views on SAS conversions Fez? I know a lot of work and a lot of money but I like different and just want to be unique and practical. I just worry that when I run out off things I can do to it that I'll sell up and get a new project and start over on something else

For a road going vehicle don't bother. To be 100% road legal It will need a IVA which is very expensive and very strict.

It will also be hard to get right that it handles and performs well on the roads at speed.

Just buy a patrol :lol

 

[makeitfit]

For a road going vehicle don't bother. To be 100% road legal It will need a IVA which is very expensive and very strict.

It will also be hard to get right that it handles and performs well on the roads at speed.

Just buy a patrol :lol

What he said :lol
I've read up on many SAS jobs and really they have no more travel/twist ability than IFS mainly due to short arm issues.
35s and every day car will be a challenge but if you're mad enough then fill your boots.
So let's assume you go 35s. Use the LOKKA to your advantage. You wont be needing more than a 2" susp lift. Defo not the over cranked Alex torsion bars either. (I've had words with him on that following steering issues. He's been lowered a bit now lol )
IFS can be tricked out some more to get more flex (less road friendly though), like rose jointed comp rods , calmini top arms and quality ball joints. Obviously a well hard steering mod of sorts.
Back end would benefit from longer arms to increase axle travel without taller springs, but not essential. ( this can also be moved back a bit and a prop spacer used )
Body lift can be upped a bit if you want .
Main cutting really is the front of the sills and back of front wings.
Crucially wheel offset and tyre width allow plenty of flex. I've only got 10.5" wide tyres on mine. (I had 12.5s on for a while and were aweful)

Fez rightly says you'll only gain an extra inch of clearance over 33s BUT you do get a whole van load of man points :sly

 

[Banshee]

What he said :lol
I've read up on many SAS jobs and really they have no more travel/twist ability than IFS mainly due to short arm issues.
35s and every day car will be a challenge but if you're mad enough then fill your boots.
So let's assume you go 35s. Use the LOKKA to your advantage. You wont be needing more than a 2" susp lift. Defo not the over cranked Alex torsion bars either. (I've had words with him on that following steering issues. He's been lowered a bit now lol )
IFS can be tricked out some more to get more flex (less road friendly though), like rose jointed comp rods , calmini top arms and quality ball joints. Obviously a well hard steering mod of sorts.
Back end would benefit from longer arms to increase axle travel without taller springs, but not essential. ( this can also be moved back a bit and a prop spacer used )
Body lift can be upped a bit if you want .
Main cutting really is the front of the sills and back of front wings.
Crucially wheel offset and tyre width allow plenty of flex. I've only got 10.5" wide tyres on mine. (I had 12.5s on for a while and were aweful)

Fez rightly says you'll only gain an extra inch of clearance over 33s BUT you do get a whole van load of man points :sly

I love man points :lol :lol

12.50's on mine at the min on 10J's, look well beefy :naughty They were catching bad!!!! But Elty has worked his magic and now it's sweet just need to fit some bump stops back on the rear

 

[makeitfit]

I love man points :lol :lol

12.50's on mine at the min on 10J's, look well beefy :naughty They were catching bad!!!! But Elty has worked his magic and now it's sweet just need to fit some bump stops back on the rear

Now this is where I think you're mistaken. I want max flex from the back axle to help compensate for the IFS so no bump stops at the back. When you go man point hunting and fit 35s you'll have about an inch more tyre to clear your tubs So more offset needed and I reckon, narrower tyres.
If you're going 12.5 x 35s then you will defo have lots more cutting :lol
What have you done for more power by the way ?
Also, back to thread stuff :augie do you know what the petrol diff ratio is ?

 

[Banshee]

Now this is where I think you're mistaken. I want max flex from the back axle to help compensate for the IFS so no bump stops at the back. When you go man point hunting and fit 35s you'll have about an inch more tyre to clear your tubs So more offset needed and I reckon, narrower tyres.
If you're going 12.5 x 35s then you will defo have lots more cutting :lol
What have you done for more power by the way ?
Also, back to thread stuff :augie do you know what the petrol diff ratio is ?

Petrol 4.625, Diesel 4.375 :thumb2

Yeah narrower tyres it is then!!!! 12.50 is way too wide but I wouldn't listen, I had to have the 10J's too :doh

Just a Powerchip so far and all is good

 

[solarman216]

2.7 D 35x8 = 4.375 to 1,,,,,2.4 P 37x8 =4.625 to 1, Rick