Clutch Pedal Play

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I think there may be some confusion as to which bushes we are talking about.

Looking at the schematic, there are 5 bushes shown.

Scan0001_zps90a04004.jpg


4 in the pedal pivot 46525M, 46525MB. (poss 46525MA)
1 where the forks of the master cylinder join the pedal 46512M

There are also 2 where the spring ends pivots sit in the main bracket, but they do not appear to be shown

The 3 I thought were the the ones causing the pedal problem, I have ringed in the picture.

t2clutchpedal_zpsbc452fb6.jpg


The larger bush looks a bit like a spacer that goes in the hole I have marked as "3" on the picture... This is where the pedal joins the Master cylinder, and I am guessing this one, should be the one in this link http://www.milneroffroad.com/nissan/terrano/r20-2-7td-1993-1999-maverick-1993-terrano-1/r20-clutch-1/r20-clutch-spigot-shaft-bush-1, part number 46512M in the second picture.


Then there are 2 that look like tiny "top hats", that go in where I have marked 1 and 2 on the picture. These are the Spring bushes, and do not seem to be in the schematic. You can actually see that one is split in the picture.

The other 4, seem to be all related to the actual pedal pivot area and are 46525MB, which seem to be for the main mounting bracket, and 46525M, which goes in the pedal pivot spacer tube ends. There also seems to be a 46525MA, but I can not see what that does, looks like a spacer to take up sideways slack maybe.
 
The bush I made up went in position 3. 10mm OD, 8mm ID.

Did that fix the problem, and what was your problem?

M problem is the peddle not returning to the top, and having to lift it with your tow, or find a bum in the road:lol. I made the same one as you, plus the two top hats, in positions 1 and 2 out of a washer and some brass tube brassed together, but it did not fix the issue long term. I never took the actual peddle out of the bracket, so did not know about those extra bushes up there, so they may well be my nest place to look.
 
Bushes

I had been looking at solarman216 's entry on page 2, where he's refers to the top hat bush and assumed there was only one.

Confused
 
I had been looking at solarman216 's entry on page 2, where he's refers to the top hat bush and assumed there was only one.

Confused

Looking at the Schematic, it may have also been a "top hat" style (Hard to tell), but the end on mine was worn away/broken off I guess. There is no real need for it to be that shape, I guess it just makes assembly in the factory easier, and as Solarman says, he just used a bit of tube to replace it, as did I.
 
Did that fix the problem, and what was your problem?

Yes, I had the pedal not returning the last inch or so and very occasionally had to pull it up with my foot. It's been fixed for a couple of years now and I've never had to pull it back up.
 
The Spacer from Milners is not the one for No.3 as indicated on the picture its far too large, thats the one I bought as advised and no way does it go there, I think it may be the very top of the pedal but havent investigated this yet. I am talking to a mate of mine who is going to machine a new bush for me so if it works he may be able to supply some new ones cheaper than the £6.75 each quoted from Nissan.

I think there may be some confusion as to which bushes we are talking about.

Looking at the schematic, there are 5 bushes shown.

Scan0001_zps90a04004.jpg


4 in the pedal pivot 46525M, 46525MB. (poss 46525MA)
1 where the forks of the master cylinder join the pedal 46512M

There are also 2 where the spring ends pivots sit in the main bracket, but they do not appear to be shown

The 3 I thought were the the ones causing the pedal problem, I have ringed in the picture.

t2clutchpedal_zpsbc452fb6.jpg


The larger bush looks a bit like a spacer that goes in the hole I have marked as "3" on the picture... This is where the pedal joins the Master cylinder, and I am guessing this one, should be the one in this link http://www.milneroffroad.com/nissan/terrano/r20-2-7td-1993-1999-maverick-1993-terrano-1/r20-clutch-1/r20-clutch-spigot-shaft-bush-1, part number 46512M in the second picture.


Then there are 2 that look like tiny "top hats", that go in where I have marked 1 and 2 on the picture. These are the Spring bushes, and do not seem to be in the schematic. You can actually see that one is split in the picture.

The other 4, seem to be all related to the actual pedal pivot area and are 46525MB, which seem to be for the main mounting bracket, and 46525M, which goes in the pedal pivot spacer tube ends. There also seems to be a 46525MA, but I can not see what that does, looks like a spacer to take up sideways slack maybe.
 
Bushes and Hats etc etc

There is one with a 10mm OD. Then run an 8mm drill through the middle to get your 8mm ID.



OK, so I bought some of these. Only trouble is , how to hold the bush while drilling it out to 8mm, tried 5,6 and 7mm first but can't hold the nylon bush, too much torque to hold it . If you use pliers , they just shred the outside of the bush. Hold it too tight and you squash the bush

I'm sure some engineers out there can help.

thanks
 
Have you not got or know anyone with a desk vice?

Possibly. They have a pillar drill I know for sure.

It's being able to grip the little blighter that's the issue without roughing up the outer part of the bush.

thanks
 
Possibly. They have a pillar drill I know for sure.

It's being able to grip the little blighter that's the issue without roughing up the outer part of the bush.

thanks

Wrap it in cloth around the outside as to not score it and then get it clamped in and drill that mother ducker
 
Or along the same lines, hold it in a vice with some sand paper wrapped around it.
 
Or along the same lines, hold it in a vice with some sand paper wrapped around it.

Thanks all great ideas. But there still another BUT.

It's OD is 10mm and I'm trying to create an id of 8mm.Too much pressure to hold it tends to squash it into and oval shape !

How about heating up the other end of an 8mm bit and trying that ?
 

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