Brake disc wear - how much is too much?

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Daveluck

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
165
Hi,

If I put a straight edge along the disk and measure I've got a 3.5mm lip.

Is it time to change em or can I go a bit more? I've got no grinding or screeching just noticed the wear when changing the oil filter.

Cheers

Dave
 
I'd change them. Nissan repair manual for the 2000 model says standard thickness 26mm, minimum thickness 24mm...
That being said, my T2 was at <20mm when I got it.
 
perelaar said:
I'd change them. Nissan repair manual for the 2000 model says standard thickness 26mm, minimum thickness 24mm...
That being said, my T2 was at <20mm when I got it.
Click to expand...

so with a 3.5 mm lip, that's both sides, so down to 26- 7 mm = 19mm thick overall.

I measured mine with an electronic vernier, with an M6 nut taped on each measuring arm, zero the vernier, then measure the real disc thickness. Some of that lip will be rust so may not be 3.5 mm after all.

19mm much too thin in my opinion, I've heard that small cracks in the surface of the disc can occur if they overheat etc. and can fracture.
Uncle Rustic
 
Yes, I'd change them too. It's not too bad a job, despite the hubs having to come off. It actually sounds far worse a job than it actually is :thumb2
 
Brake Discs

If your discs are in good condition otherwise i.e. not badly scored or rutted and you are not heavy on your brakes with no towing I would wait until your pads need replacing then do it all together or just squeeze one more set of pads if you are doing them anyway.
 
If they're too thin they won't sink heat away as effectively and you run the risk of brake fade just when you're likely to need them the most. If they're below the recommended thickness I'd get them swapped out :thumb2
 
quixote said:
Yes, I'd change them too. It's not too bad a job, despite the hubs having to come off. It actually sounds far worse a job than it actually is :thumb2
Click to expand...

No special tools required, other than your standard metric socket set, jack, axle stand, an M6 AF allen key in a 1/2" socket with a torque wrench helps to re tighten the bolts for Auto hubs, and a pair of circlip pliers, or two screw drivers, and work in a clear plastic bag for when the clip spings to the other side of your workshop or drive lol...
Take your time, do a bit of de rusting and waxoyling and less than 3 hours a side and three cups of tea and a few biscuits and sorted.
Replace pads at the same time, good for 20-30 k miles then with care lol... maybe more.
:thumb2
Rustic
 
Brake Discs are not to be fooled with, change them, but make sure you get the new ones from a reputable source, I got a set off Ebay but later saw the Fake Britain prog that depicted brake discs and some split apart, it was not long after that I scrapped said motor and was originally thinking to remove the discs for use elsewhere, but after seeing the prog the discs can stay where they are, I now only go to my local motor factors, hopefully they only source from genuine suppliers, they have their reputation to think of and most local garages use them, Rick
 
Right then I'll have a go at it!

I have 2 more boxes of goodies. Discs and pads.

So caliper off first - just the 2 bolts on the blind side.


I haven't got the free wheeling hub thingies so remove the hub. The manual says I need a special lock washer removal tool. Is there a secret way around that?

Can I jack up both sides at once or do one at a time?

I'll take it slow and I'll probably be asking more questions as I go!
 
No special tools required, other than circlip pliers expanding type, never done manual hubs so cannot say on those but if fixed hubs the dome has to be prized off to get at the circlip before you can remove it, two small screws to remove the bearing locking plate then small round bar in one of the holes in the nut to undo it (two bars and a lever between the two to refit, hand tight plus 1/8 turn to pre load the bearing) Rick
 
Daveluck said:
The manual says I need a special lock washer removal tool. Is there a secret way around that?
Click to expand...

Don't worry about that? It's merely a washer with through holes and it's not torqued. You can remove it by gently tapping the holes with a screwdriver. You'll see just what I mean once you get to it :)

You can jack up both sides at once if you prefer. You'll manage just fine, don't worry :thumbs
 
I
solarman216 said:
Brake Discs are not to be fooled with, change them, but make sure you get the new ones from a reputable source, I got a set off Ebay but later saw the Fake Britain prog that depicted brake discs and some split apart, it was not long after that I scrapped said motor and was originally thinking to remove the discs for use elsewhere, but after seeing the prog the discs can stay where they are, I now only go to my local motor factors, hopefully they only source from genuine suppliers, they have their reputation to think of and most local garages use them, Rick
Click to expand...

Noted.

These are TRW (discs) and the pads are Necto :nenau from the local parts shop for 135euro.

They seem like good people - they even asked if I wanted to order Nissan parts or should they order what the mechanics use?

Lol! Just opened the disc box for a quick contrast and compare. Going by first glance I definitely need new!
 
Sorry, its not very clear to me...do I undo the six bolts while everything is still attached to the axle or take it off and then separate?
 
Daveluck said:
Sorry, its not very clear to me...do I undo the six bolts while everything is still attached to the axle or take it off and then separate?
Click to expand...

yes remove the 6 bolts but before you can pull it of the shaft you have to remove the circlip around the shaft under the domed cover, (fixed hub) as said do not know about manual hubs, the circlip could be in the same place as Auto hubs in which case 6 bolts remove hub and circlip will be seen, Rick
 
Rustic you have such a logical mind, I miss all that download stuff as cannot remember, glad to see you are still on the ball, Rick
 
solarman216 said:
Rustic you have such a logical mind, I miss all that download stuff as cannot remember, glad to see you are still on the ball, Rick
Click to expand...

I guess I still want to make a difference :thumb2

Rustic
 
Your posts have helped me enormously, Rustic. I know we don't know each other personally, but you've helped me directly through your contributions more than you'll ever know! And it's very, very much appreciated!!! I just wanted you to know that, mate. I'm Stu in real life, by the way :thumb2
 
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