Before and after oil leak pictures.

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AlexD333

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2014
Messages
7,847
Right so in the first picture it appears oil is leaking from high up. Once i cleaned up the engine and left it to run, did a 15 mile trip i checked underneath and took a second picture, and it seems it might be leaking from "this bolt"

Questions is, if that's the case, could the oil spray up making it look like it was leaking from higher?

First pic before clean, second pic after clean
 

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Won't let me upload picture twice as the other pic is on my mud/wash/spray oil leak post... :rolleyes:
 
I can't quite make out the angle, but that looks like the sump plug. Apologies of I'm wrong though.

Regards

Alan
 
I can't quite make out the angle, but that looks like the sump plug. Apologies of I'm wrong though.

Regards

Alan

i think you're right Alan, looks like the sump plug, probably needs a new washer on it
 
yep it is the sump plug, just remove it it it has an ali washer then replace it but most have copper, just anneal it make sure all is clean and put it back in, Rick
 
To save draining the oil, slacken the sump bolt a few turns, then wrap a load of PTFE tape around it, then tighten.
It might last until your next oil change.

What do others think?
Change the oil anyway, oh no... he'll have to change the filter too :doh:doh
 
The sumo plug faces the same direction as the headlights yes? This bolt is facing fowards?
 
The sumo plug faces the same direction as the headlights yes? This bolt is facing fowards?

there is only one plug at the bottom of the sump, and yes if oil is not yet due for change, follow Rustics suggestion, it will work no problem, just make sure you wrap the PTFE anti clock, Rick
 
For what it costs, I would do a oil+filter change anyway, I like to know I have good fresh oil in my engines. You will also see what a bugger the filter is to change.
 
Again, thankyou to all the guru masters on here! Without you all I'd feel worried and picture the engine blowing up :lol

The engine oil is manky and could do with a change anyway. I saw a video of a woman doing a change on a 92 terrano and the filter was a bast***

Had a lip in the way too.
 
Ha Ha a newbie Terrano oil filter changer.Replacing it can be tricky.It can be accessed from the n/s wing though.
 
Ha Ha a newbie Terrano oil filter changer.Replacing it can be tricky.It can be accessed from the n/s wing though.

Noooo no no no no no, read my signature, :lol :lol :lol

I"ll ask one of the technicians if they will be kind enough.
 
Noooo no no no no no, read my signature, :lol :lol :lol
I"ll ask one of the technicians if they will be kind enough.

If you have someone to do it, then great, it is the worst one that I have ever changed, but after 18 years of ownership, I have learnt the knack.
Best done on a warm, not hot engine, you don't want to be scalded.

1 Prepare for the biggest oil spill since the Gulf, dropping a filter full of dirty oil is quite likely. So best to remove plastic under engine cover, before it fills with dirty oil, place loads of paper, card rags, under the engine to catch the spilt oil...:doh I use a mortar mixing board, doesn't blow away in the wind...lol.
2 access via near side wheel is best, jack up, remove wheel, remove inner rubber shield.
3 You will need a thin strap wrench, there is not enough room for a chain wrench.
4 The full filter can be jiggled forward, in the up right position over the chassis, and tilt at the last second and you can retrieve it with minimal oil loss through the inner wing.
It can be removed from the top, if you have a friend, but if on your own, it tends to fall over by the time you have got there...:doh

5 Clean up the area, then 3/4 fill your new filter with new oil, then attempt to replace it the same way the old one came out.

6 Smear the top seal on the filter with some clean oil, then align the filter onto the threads of the housing, watch out for cross threading, and tighten, When tight by greasy oily hands, I then wipe the filter, then with a pair of rubber gloves, you can grip it to tighten it even more.
7 Sometimes this isn't quite enough, so if it leaks, then using a strap wrench tighten a little more.

This is just the filter bit, clearly you need to drain the oil from the sump, into a container that can hold up to 7 litres.
In this instance, fit a new sump plug washer, as suggested.
Make sure sump plug is tight, not too great a force needed, then add the oil into the cover on top of the rocker box.
First add 4 or 5 litres, then check the dip stick, but allow time for the oil to get into the sump.
Slowly add more oil, but check regularly as you don't want to over fill it.

With filling the oil filter, sometimes the dip stick will show full, even though you haven't put the recommended amount in, this is because not all of the oil has come out.

You need to buy a minimum of 7 litres ( possibly 8 allowing for later top ups) of suitable oil, I find 10w/40 or 15w/40 castrol GTX mineral, or part synthetic oil works for me.
NEVER fully synthetic, and never thin oil starting 5w/... like some web sites suggest.:doh:doh This is far too thin, and you will burn it off.


I hope this helps, you can always pass this on to your friendly technician.
To my fellow forum members, please add or criticise any of my suggestions as you see fit. After all we have all learnt different techniques?

The first few times I did it, I did it from the top, I never spilt a drop either.
I was lucky.
To give me access, I stood on a step stool, which allowed me to reach the filter.
I once undid the filter wearing a rubber glove, it had enough grip without a wrench.
Following the advice on this site, I changed over to the near side wing access, easier to see what is going on.

best regards,

Rustic
 
i had my garage mate do my oil and filter.£40 well spent.i did notice that he spilt oil on the floor under the ramp,so now i know why now.
 
Oh the joys of 2.7 oil filter changes, I use to drain the engine via the sump plug, remove the air filter hose, then remove the filter from above, while hanging over the engine bay, once the filter was loose, I wiped it with a rag and then screwed it off carefully and normally kept most of the oil in it.
I always filled the new filter with oil before re fitting.
But now I have the O so easy 3.0l filter change....mess, what mess ;)
 
I should have added, when oil level is right, start the engine, the oil light should go out after 3 seconds, that's why I suggest 3/4 filling oil filter, otherwise with an empty filter, the oil light doesn't go out for a fair few seconds longer, as the filter fills, and during this time there is no oil circulation.:doh

Clearly garages don't do this, it's not their engine, this is one of the reasons why "we" know how to look after these vehicles better than the dealers.:thumb2

Check for leaks, oil can appear on the top lip of the oil filter, if it is leaking, so it might need an extra 1/8 turn.

Check the sump plug for leaks, stop the engine, let the oil settle, check oil level and top up if required.
Make sure oil filler cap is fitted correctly.
Clean off engine, refit bits that you have removed for access.
If you have removed the wheel, make sure you have torqued the wheel nuts to the right value. These can be so easily over tightened, and mine are of a brass type alloy, and can easily strip.:thumb2

Job done.

Hope it helps..

Rustic
 
I should have added, when oil level is right, start the engine, the oil light should go out after 3 seconds, that's why I suggest 3/4 filling oil filter, otherwise with an empty filter, the oil light doesn't go out for a fair few seconds longer, as the filter fills, and during this time there is no oil circulation.:doh

Clearly garages don't do this, it's not their engine, this is one of the reasons why "we" know how to look after these vehicles better than the dealers.:thumb2

Check for leaks, oil can appear on the top lip of the oil filter, if it is leaking, so it might need an extra 1/8 turn.

Check the sump plug for leaks, stop the engine, let the oil settle, check oil level and top up if required.
Make sure oil filler cap is fitted correctly.
Clean off engine, refit bits that you have removed for access.
If you have removed the wheel, make sure you have torqued the wheel nuts to the right value. These can be so easily over tightened, and mine are of a brass type alloy, and can easily strip.:thumb2

Job done.

Hope it helps..

Rustic

Wicked write up thanks rustic. I actually have a bottle of 5w30 castrol in the boot, thought this was the right oil? Although a top up has not been needed yet anyway..

So mabye ita better to pay someone on here who is handy rather than a garage who does not care.
 
Wicked write up thanks rustic. I actually have a bottle of 5w30 castrol in the boot, thought this was the right oil? Although a top up has not been needed yet anyway..

So mabye ita better to pay someone on here who is handy rather than a garage who does not care.

It's easy to do an oil/filter change, I use 10w40, I think 5w30 is to thin for your engine.
I thought you were seeing Davenclaire this weekend, he should be able to show you what's needed.
Like I already said, I'm up the M40 at junction 5
 

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