any update on the chip then paul

[extreme-4x4]

hows the super chip going now then,

i had a thought last night.
now its chipped and you can tweak it yourself is it worth you getting a boost gauge and tweak the turbo too

who was it said you can tweek the waste gate 3 turns clockwise or anti clockwise. if the fueling is right

 

[lacroupade]

hows the super chip going now then,

i had a thought last night.
now its chipped and you can tweak it yourself is it worth you getting a boost gauge and tweak the turbo too

who was it said you can tweek the waste gate 3 turns clockwise or anti clockwise. if the fueling is right

Running like a dream - its needed the odd quarter turn back to smooth out the revs when you back off but seems to pull a bit better when you've done it....the infinite adjustment was one of the attractions, so in theory you could adjust fuelling to reflect a bit of turbo boost....I'd be happy to have a little pop without a gauge but I'd need to be clear about what I could get away with, i.e. is it three turns, and anto-clockwise or clockwise....?!

Oh and no problem with 50/50 SVO either. Nowadays I just floor it in fifth to overtake, no changing down as a rule...climbs all the way to the red line without losing breath like it used to...

 

[Terranosaurus]

Paul which of your T2's did you put it on?

If the 99 is that a later OBDII version?

Where did the wires attach to?

 

[lacroupade]

Paul which of your T2's did you put it on?

If the 99 is that a later OBDII version?

Where did the wires attach to?

It was the 02 plate one Simon, but I am sure the 99 is OBDII as well.

There were only four wires to connect and sadly the Tunit wiring diagram (which just showed the ECU pins to use) was wrong for the two control signal wires - I've no idea what the wires I eventually connected to were for, only that the extremely helpful Tunit guy I spoke to said "Oh no I only did one last week and its these two not those two..."!!

Would the ECU plug pin numbers mean anything if I dug them out?

 

[Terranosaurus]

It was the 02 plate one Simon, but I am sure the 99 is OBDII as well.

There were only four wires to connect and sadly the Tunit wiring diagram (which just showed the ECU pins to use) was wrong for the two control signal wires - I've no idea what the wires I eventually connected to were for, only that the extremely helpful Tunit guy I spoke to said "Oh no I only did one last week and its these two not those two..."!!

Would the ECU plug pin numbers mean anything if I dug them out?

I could probably work out what they are from th manual so please if you don't mind.

 

[lacroupade]

Ok here goes, and I might be a pair out because he talked me through it on the phone so I reconnected it on the fly and I didn't write it down, but I've got a red wire and a white/silver wire in the back of my head.

The diagram referred to the ECU plugs, showing them left to right as 1 x 9way, 1 x 24way, 1 x 52way, 1 x 40way and 1 x 9way.

The two supply wires went on the very l/h plug on the top l/h pin and the one below it. They are numbered 107 and 104 respectively on their plug diagram but don't know if that reads back to the manual or not?

The two control wires they originally said to put on the third plug from left, second row up, seventh and eighth pins from left...numbered 320 and 321 on their diagram....but that was WRONG as it turned out.....I am fairly certain that it ended up being the two pins ABOVE that on the THIRD row up numbered 333 and 334?

Sorry thats a bit vague but if it hadn't all been put back together I'd have gone and looked properly; as it is it took and hour to get the dash back together.....the Mk3 is a royal pain in that respect.

Be interested in your conclusions....:bow

 

[Terranosaurus]

106 ECM ground [Engine is running] I Idle speed Approximately 0V
107 Power supply for ECM [Ignition switch “ON”] BATTERY VOLTAGE (11 - 14V)

333 R Needle lift sensor ground [Ignition switch “ON”] Approximately 0V
334 G/R Engine coolant temperature sensor ground

So first pair are just the 12v supply, switched with the ignition so its not on unless the engine is.

As for the other 2. I'm guessing its using the Needle lift sensor to sense the engine revs and then it is fooling the engine into thinking it is colder than it really is somehow inorder to coax it into putting more fuel in.

I'd be interested to see what is inside the box really, but I guess no one is likely to want to open one up unfortunately.

The actual electronics are probably very simple, its just working out exactly what you have to do and when that costs the money.

 

[lacroupade]

I did try and open it for someone but its pretty tightly sealed and since it had 12 months warranty i didn't want to risk making it obvious....theres just a tiny adjustment screw that does about 30 turns lock to lock.....at tickover you screw clockwise til engine speeds up 500-600 rpm or so, then a bit further til it starts hunting, then back it off a couple of turns from there. Tunit claim that you can adjust later for changes like bigger exhauist etc... but I suspect you'd be better off having someone do it from the navigators seat while you drove....not sure how a tickover adjustment would compensate on its own for, say, a waste gate adjustment (can I?:naughty)..

I've made the odd adjustment since as I've said, when its whaawhaa'd back down to tickover when I've lifted off, but seems to run a bit better afterwards each time.

But based on the way the needle is behaving I'd be surprised if it isn't doing at least 2mpg better than before....I thrashed the crap out of it on the way down to Wales on Thursday, overtaking everything in sight, yet it hit 200 miles just before the needle got to the halfway mark....which is unheard of for me..!

Maybe in 12 months I'll bite the bullet and hack it open!

 

[Terranosaurus]

Meant to post this with the above but forgot so here it is.

 

[lacroupade]

Thats the little bugger!

 

[Toolbox]

Well that’s funny, I have tried a variable resistor in place of the coolant sensor to create more fuel, but find the timing the problem as the ecu alters the timing for engine temperature so the needle lift sensor wire must be to alter the timing to make proper use of the extra fuel when hot. Would be interesting to know how they do it.

 

[makeitfit]

I guess that's the £250 rub:augie

 

[lacroupade]

you'll just have to wait 11 months and three weeks...:augie

 

[Timbo_1975]

106 ECM ground [Engine is running] I Idle speed Approximately 0V
107 Power supply for ECM [Ignition switch “ON”] BATTERY VOLTAGE (11 - 14V)

333 R Needle lift sensor ground [Ignition switch “ON”] Approximately 0V
334 G/R Engine coolant temperature sensor ground

So first pair are just the 12v supply, switched with the ignition so its not on unless the engine is.

As for the other 2. I'm guessing its using the Needle lift sensor to sense the engine revs and then it is fooling the engine into thinking it is colder than it really is somehow inorder to coax it into putting more fuel in.

Are you sure about the latter two???

I am pretty sure that two wires will be connected to the inj.pump sleeve position sensor wires, rather than the needle lift sensor / CTS.

The method of operation of 99.9% of VPxx boxes is to fool the ECU into thinking it hasnt 'opened' up the inj pump enough as the feedback from the sleeve sensor is still too low.

You will possibly have an RPM signal (could be from the needle lift sensor) to the box as it may add more / less fooling according to rpm.- depends on make of box.

And lastly, the factory ECU mapping cuts fuelling with a cold engine -from reading the CTS- so the last thing you want to do here is make it think the engine is cooler than it actually is.

Hope this helps.

 

[lacroupade]

Simon what would the pair above 333/334 be...would that make any better sense...sorry I can't remember which it was, its annoying me now!! I might have to get a mirror down the back now!!!!