Another 2.4 running RUFF

[mav]

Hello again.

Just a thought but is it that bad that it could be a timing chain jumped a cog / tooth problem?,
As i have known this to happen before when the tensioner broke, Can or have you checked the compression?.

Mav.

 

[makeitfit]

Hello again.

Just a thought but is it that bad that it could be a timing chain jumped a cog / tooth problem?,
As i have known this to happen before when the tensioner broke, Can or have you checked the compression?.

Mav.

Well when I got the truck it had a new chain and tensioner just done!
If it was always rubbish it could be a possibility. BUT as its a variable loss of power and intermittant I cant see that being the answer either :?
It doesnt overheat,doesnt use oil doesnt go up hills every time :evil:

 

[Terranosaurus]

Have you blocked off the EGR - I did it on my old one with a pipe compressor tool - jus left it permanently attached.

 

[makeitfit]

Have you blocked off the EGR - I did it on my old one with a pipe compressor tool - jus left it permanently attached.

Not yet but as straws go, it's a goody!
Looking at the pdf you sent me earlier in this sorry saga, is the EGR bit I'm after on the back of the carb somewhere?
How exactly in idiot speak do I go about killing it off 8)

 

[Terranosaurus]

There is no carb - its on injection.

If you look at the exhaust manifold you'll see a metal pipe coming off it - this then feeds into a rubber pipe and then into a whole host of other bits an pieces - I just squeezed the the rubber pipe tight shut, I used a small set of mole/vice grips to start with but padded the jaws with cardboard to prevent the from damaging the pipe. After I'd run it fr a bit and decided it was doing some good I then bought a small pipe clamp to do the same job.

Its also worth checking that your manifold isn't cracked, they all seem to go in the same place, if you remove the heat shield (I threw mine away at this point) its on the top of the manifold. Its also worth checking that the downpipe to manifold joint is tight. Either of these can cause it to suck air and upset the lambda sensor and thus the mixture.

Have you cleaned your MAF - can't remember if you've done that or not.

 

[makeitfit]

Sorry I meant crb body thing!
Well now I think we're getting somewhere. I do have a crack in the manifold. I too ditched the heat shield to patch it up. I put exhaust goo in it which stopped the "blowing" noise and passed the mot.
I was hoping to find a performance manifold but no joy unless turbo'd!
MAF was clean and dandy.
I'll have a go at the egr pipe and recheck the exhaust manifold too.
Cheers

 

[Terranosaurus]

Throttle body.

The crack in the manifold really needs welding. I used a mig welder. First I ground the crack to give some nice clean fresh metal and then took it out for a spn to preheat the cast iron manifol, then I just went in ith the mig turned up full , held for 12months + before I sold it. I believe BBM on the other place has done likewise with his too.

 

[makeitfit]

I believe BBM on the other place has done likewise with his too
Is this code? :?

 

[Terranosaurus]

I believe BBM on the other place has done likewise with his too
Is this code? :?

BBM = Bigbluemaverick

Other place = www.uknissan4x4.com


Simon

 

[makeitfit]

Ah-ha now I've got more questions.....
Did you keep your timing at the advanced state you mentioned,ie dizzy as far round as it would go?

 

[Terranosaurus]

Yes in fact if I'd have kept it I was going to pop the dizy out and turn it a spline or 2 to get more advance - really should have put a timing light on it but never got around to it.

 

[makeitfit]

Is there a fuel filter IN the tank :?:
Problem seems to be a bit fuel related :!:
So as I've done the filter underneath I wondered if there could be a tank problem :?

 

[knotting_pot]

ok bridging IGN and CHK on the OBD connector for acouple of seconds with key on will make the ecu flash out any codes via the MIL.

Whats the MIL?

aha, Malfunction Indicator Light!

 

[makeitfit]

:evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
Righ that does it, I've just got back from a very expensive day at the garage :evil:
We plugged into the ecu and tested and tested and tested and...... :evil:
Error 55 ie NONE :!: :!: :!:
Whats going on? HELP
We went for a spin with lap top attached and the whizz kid garage chappy tweeked the fuel mixture while driving and woosh off it went..........but once his gizmo was unplugged the ecu goes back to Nissan setting.
So it seems to be fuel related but what?
Any ideas anybody or shall I just beat it with a tree? :evil:

 

[Toolbox]

Have you tried swapping the Lambda sensor (oxygen sensor) yet?

 

[makeitfit]

Yep put a new one in today. Only thing it improved was the motor factors day sales :evil: that's another £40 down the toilet :roll:
Anybody want a good lambda sensor,never raced or rallied done about 30 miles -banghead-

 

[knotting_pot]

:evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
Righ that does it, I've just got back from a very expensive day at the garage :evil:
We plugged into the ecu and tested and tested and tested and...... :evil:
Error 55 ie NONE :!: :!: :!:
Whats going on? HELP
We went for a spin with lap top attached and the whizz kid garage chappy tweeked the fuel mixture while driving and woosh off it went..........but once his gizmo was unplugged the ecu goes back to Nissan setting.
So it seems to be fuel related but what?
Any ideas anybody or shall I just beat it with a tree? :evil:

Looks like a sensor problem to me, something is telling the ECU to run lean. I think this because you say the Mechanic altered the mixture with his laptop and improved things but as soon as he disconnected things went back to normal, i.e. poor.

I think mine is the same

 

[knotting_pot]

Yes in fact if I'd have kept it I was going to pop the dizy out and turn it a spline or 2 to get more advance - really should have put a timing light on it but never got around to it.

What is the reason for advancing the dizzy?

 

[Terranosaurus]

I was just playing really - the engine just felt like it didn't have enough advance (didn't want to rev as freely high up as it used to) made a big difference when I did it. Really you need to put a timing light on it and see what its running at.

In the past I've found that many cars will stand a bit more advance than standard and its worth playing with the timing to get a bit more power out of them, however you need to have a good ear for pinking as too much advance could ultimately melt a piston etc. The draw back is you tend to use more fuel as you tend to rev the engine a bit more. Factory timing tends (like all engine settings) to be a compromise, power, emisions etc and based around the poorest fuel that can be expected in that region (europe, UK wherever), for instance if you ran exclusively n optimax you would probbaly be able to run a degree or 2 more advance and gain a little power. My other halfs subaru benefits from an ecu reset every know and again, especially if you do give it a treat and stick optimax in. The ecu on those (and others) learns what advanc it can run and can gradually get knocked back over time from poor fuel or freak conditions, it uses the knock sensor to detect knock and pinking and adjust accordingly, but once retarded never re-advances so performance can gradually go off.

 

[makeitfit]

A funny thing happened today!

8O IT LIVES 8O
With some reserve I wish to announce the old 2.4 breaths again :wink:
Spent the last week pretty much taking everything off,cleaning it and sticking it back on again :?
Wife now convinced I've lost it :roll:
Anyway after fitting 8 jubilee clips,about a metre of assorted pipe,K&N filter,assorted wires and plugs,a broken finger nail and plenty of scuffed knuckle the ruddy thing "seems" to be working :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I really can't say what the problem was but probably a combination of 15years abuse and neglect. :wink:
So I'm off to bash some lanes tomorrow and chase some sheep later 8)