Terranosaurus
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2006
- Messages
- 3,991
Well I started my body lift today, I've had the spacers for a while but got some bolts earlier this week unfortunately I may need some different ones.
Mines a 95N, SWB 2.4 Petrol manual and whilst I should have reread the download on this before I bought the bolts it wouldn't have helped as I'd still have ended up with the wrong bolts just different wrong bolts.
There are 4 body to chassis fixings per side.
From the front
1 M10 x 1.25 x 100mm bolt head up nut down, both ends are accessible.
2 M10 x 1.25 x 100mm bolt head down, the nut is semi captive being held in a plastic holder under the footwell carpet.
3 M12 x 1.25 x 100mm bolt head down to captive nut which is inaccessible under the rear passenger footwell, its in a void.
4 M12 x 1.25 x 100mm bolt head down to captive nut which is inaccessible in a box section under the boot floor.
So far I have removed
1 both front bolts, with a lot of swearing and swinging on a 2 foot breaker bar.
2 More of the same and I had to lift the carpets (more on that later) destroy the plastic retainer.
3 Even more of the same, though I was really careful to work the bolt back and forth so as to help free it up as I went
4 I did these first and they were the most trouble. The offside one has sheared - OOOOOPS - the near side one appears to have sheared the captive nut off the body so now I can't get it undone. The plan at the moment is to use a core drill to put a whole in the side of th box section so I can get a spanner in to hold the nut and then undo that side. On the offside I'm going to lift the body up and then attempt to bend the shaft of the bolt so I can hammer it round all being well this will also loosen the captive nut and I can treat as the nearside.
The bolts I'm fitting.
As it was months ago that I read the workshop download I forgot th bolts are metric fine and bought ordinary metric bolts, however the download says the 98 truck at least use M12s throughout and I definitely have a mix of M10 and M12 so heres the plan.
1 use the ordinary M10 x 160 bolts as I can replace everything with these.
2 as 1
3 Try to source some M12 x 1.25 x 160 bolts, which might not be easy even though fittings etc are my business.
4 I think I'll end up removing both captive nuts in the end so I may as well fit the M12 x 160 bolts I've got complete with new nuts. In which case I'll probably get the core drill out again and get access to remove the other M12 nuts (3) so that I don't have to buy any more new bolts and they can all be the same.
Removing the rear bumper
This turned out to be easier than I thought.
There are 4 bolts through the chassis rails, outboard where the recover points are these were fairly easy.
There are four bolts holding a steel panel that supports the mud flap assembly to the chassis rail in the back of the wheel arch, these ned removing. Remove the tail lights, using the 4 obvious screws on the outside and then is connect the wiring, detach a couple of multiplugs attached in the nearside corner of the bump and deal with the number plate ad number plate lights too (mine doesn't have one I fitted a mistral number plate holder a while ago).
The bumper should then pull off, with a little bending of the mudflps etc.
Rot
Or should that be more rot - those of you that have seen the pictures of the hole I had in my sill will no that the tin worm has got a hold of my truck, hence the seized bolts. Removing the bumper revealed more.Behind the rear wheels behind the bumper there is a downward facing air vent, which if you go wading will allow water in but unfortunately it won't drain out, or at least the last 5" or so depth won't, at least not until its rotted through the bodywork for you. These air vents will be sealed up with plastic sheet and silicon once the metal work has been repaired.
Carpet
I've decided I'm going to take my carpets out for the time being, possibly permanently, we'll see. They are very wet underneath though they appear dry from above. This should give them opportunity to dry fully and me opportunity to seal every last hole. I'll see how much noisierit is, if not too bad I'll leave em out for good, it's not our everyday transport as w have an Impreza for that and I use a van for work.
Why is it with these jobs that nothing goes smoothly and you always find there twice as many jobs to do as you had planned.
Mines a 95N, SWB 2.4 Petrol manual and whilst I should have reread the download on this before I bought the bolts it wouldn't have helped as I'd still have ended up with the wrong bolts just different wrong bolts.
There are 4 body to chassis fixings per side.
From the front
1 M10 x 1.25 x 100mm bolt head up nut down, both ends are accessible.
2 M10 x 1.25 x 100mm bolt head down, the nut is semi captive being held in a plastic holder under the footwell carpet.
3 M12 x 1.25 x 100mm bolt head down to captive nut which is inaccessible under the rear passenger footwell, its in a void.
4 M12 x 1.25 x 100mm bolt head down to captive nut which is inaccessible in a box section under the boot floor.
So far I have removed
1 both front bolts, with a lot of swearing and swinging on a 2 foot breaker bar.
2 More of the same and I had to lift the carpets (more on that later) destroy the plastic retainer.
3 Even more of the same, though I was really careful to work the bolt back and forth so as to help free it up as I went
4 I did these first and they were the most trouble. The offside one has sheared - OOOOOPS - the near side one appears to have sheared the captive nut off the body so now I can't get it undone. The plan at the moment is to use a core drill to put a whole in the side of th box section so I can get a spanner in to hold the nut and then undo that side. On the offside I'm going to lift the body up and then attempt to bend the shaft of the bolt so I can hammer it round all being well this will also loosen the captive nut and I can treat as the nearside.
The bolts I'm fitting.
As it was months ago that I read the workshop download I forgot th bolts are metric fine and bought ordinary metric bolts, however the download says the 98 truck at least use M12s throughout and I definitely have a mix of M10 and M12 so heres the plan.
1 use the ordinary M10 x 160 bolts as I can replace everything with these.
2 as 1
3 Try to source some M12 x 1.25 x 160 bolts, which might not be easy even though fittings etc are my business.
4 I think I'll end up removing both captive nuts in the end so I may as well fit the M12 x 160 bolts I've got complete with new nuts. In which case I'll probably get the core drill out again and get access to remove the other M12 nuts (3) so that I don't have to buy any more new bolts and they can all be the same.
Removing the rear bumper
This turned out to be easier than I thought.
There are 4 bolts through the chassis rails, outboard where the recover points are these were fairly easy.
There are four bolts holding a steel panel that supports the mud flap assembly to the chassis rail in the back of the wheel arch, these ned removing. Remove the tail lights, using the 4 obvious screws on the outside and then is connect the wiring, detach a couple of multiplugs attached in the nearside corner of the bump and deal with the number plate ad number plate lights too (mine doesn't have one I fitted a mistral number plate holder a while ago).
The bumper should then pull off, with a little bending of the mudflps etc.
Rot
Or should that be more rot - those of you that have seen the pictures of the hole I had in my sill will no that the tin worm has got a hold of my truck, hence the seized bolts. Removing the bumper revealed more.Behind the rear wheels behind the bumper there is a downward facing air vent, which if you go wading will allow water in but unfortunately it won't drain out, or at least the last 5" or so depth won't, at least not until its rotted through the bodywork for you. These air vents will be sealed up with plastic sheet and silicon once the metal work has been repaired.
Carpet
I've decided I'm going to take my carpets out for the time being, possibly permanently, we'll see. They are very wet underneath though they appear dry from above. This should give them opportunity to dry fully and me opportunity to seal every last hole. I'll see how much noisierit is, if not too bad I'll leave em out for good, it's not our everyday transport as w have an Impreza for that and I use a van for work.
Why is it with these jobs that nothing goes smoothly and you always find there twice as many jobs to do as you had planned.