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Yup think thats about it - mechanical spec is the same.

I'll see what i can do, all hinges on when i see Amy and what date etc. But at worst I should be able to come down for the evening run and a few tinnies at the camp over etc

TBH I didn't know - but having just checked the workshop manual no they are another chain driven cam engine. Even if they were it wouldn't put me off - just change it when you get it unless 100% certain its been done and then err on the side of caution at the next change.

Awesome - I soooooo want one - my next will be one.

You can do that on the older models too though - personally if the front shubs are locked in, have manuals or no FWH hubs on later models I would happily engage 4wd at any speed, everything is turning at the same speed - all you are doing is engaging it. With older models the front end is...

Yes thats right. On later models like yours NIssan removed the freewheeling hubs so the front prop turns constantly. You can get a replacement joint from milner offroad - http://www.milneroffroad.com

Not sure how you found that site and missed Tongs own - HERE I can't make the next P&P there but could be up for the following one. Something for everyone tere, graded route, blue, red, black - blues ok for any T2, some of the harder reds will need decent mud tyres and possbly a lift and the...

You'll be bored there after about 30 mins - an hour tops - I was.

Well its a really huge pair of pliers.

You can split it as shown in the big diagram above - undo the big nut on the end of the rod before, undoing the two bolts that hold the rod to the arm. I'm afraid theres nothing availabel to buy to weld in so you will have to fabricate bits and pieces as requires.

Sounds like he's talking about where the part circled in red mounts to the chassis - it attaches to the lower arm where I have circled green - so the rear mount for the lower wishbone/arm. Unless that looks obviously correoded as Jim says you may be better going back for him to show you exactly...

Yup thats the stuff.

Can't do you a pic but theres 2 hole sin the slam panel that you stick a screwdriver (phillips) in vertically and turn to adjust - pretty sure its an all plastic mech so doubt its seized - more likely he couldn't find it either.

If not E marked, technically not legal but thats not what MOT is looking for. They just wants to see that the pattern is right - which I am sceptical about as reflectors are built around there being a finite point from which light is emited - ie the element, if that element is not in the right...

:thumb2:D:thumb2:D:thumb2:D:lol:lol:lol

I used an extra Mk1 switch on my Mk1 Mav to run the big spots before too. What lights ave you got and what bulbs have they got in them? That said it could well be your wiring as even a std 55w spot/fog light i pretty bright if wired well. For the Mac this year I had Cibie Bi-oscars up from...

There was a thread sometime ago about front foglights and the different set ups on the dfferent models etc but can't find it - if someone else manages to I can merge the threads. Anyway - I've added a switch so I can use the standard front foglights as driving lights with them extinguishing...

Great but they don't do one for the R180 diff and if they did they would be twice the price.

Jim - if it comes to it and the head gasket needs doing, give me a shout. Will only take us a couple of hours to whip it off. Probably best to get it pressure tested whilst off and if warped at all skimmed, had a 300Tdi disco head done with mega extensive maching a few months back by Lockside...

Creamy gunk could be some sort of white or silicon grease deliberately applied to protect the connections - if it is white and powdery, then sure its corrosion, clean away, but if its grease I should leave well alone unless you are getting electrical problems.