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If your mechanic doesnt know what to put in the axles / transfer box, and can't ring his oil supplier to ask, then ask yourself, what else is he bodging??? MUST be LSD SAE 75w-90 in the rear axle, LSD or straight 75w-90 in the front, and in the transfer box ATF dexron.

From the few facts this thread has presented, and having only seen the "after" photo's, i am thinking the OP needs to stop messing around and involve Trading Standards (and seek some free advice from CAB or similar) and possibly pay for a professional enginneers report on the current state of...

Marvellous!!!

Zexel - front timing case. Bosch - flywheel housing, under the inlet manifold.

Right, the first 'symptom' you mention is completely normal. ALL the TDi's will do it to a certain extent. It is caused by poorly written software in the ECU, since they thought, well who he going to be sat in neutral revving the engine ?? Secondly, this can be caused by acouple of items, first...

Try a *little* sniff of easy start. Just incase the fuel line is airlocked. If it doesnt show any signs of continuing to run after then you're gunna have to delve alot deeper.

Or you are sucking air. Double check all the fuel line rubber connections / jubliee clips.

The EGR valve is built into the throttle body hence the silly expense! Blame Renault.

I can't see a section of rubber pipe being £200 from nissan! If you are really struggling, make up the section with aluminium tube + silicone connectors from ebay and the like.

As I also have a Xtrail (2.5 sport) from 2000-70,000 miles, I'll jot afew main pointers... Assuming he will be looking at the 2.2 dci, then he should put a quid or two away each month for a replacement turbo, egr valve and intercooler. All 3 will be needed if he keeps it any length of time...

You are right. It is fairly simple to convert a TDI back to TD spec with all mechanical fuelling leaving the TDI injectors in place. A TD pump opened up somewhat will liberate similar or more power as the TDI. Helps to have a scrap vehicle to rob the bits from though. You need to leave the...

PS- i've just thought... If the idle switch is BROKEN and never indicates "idle" to the ecu, then the ecu will give an rpm directly according to the volts from the PPS, which could be really low ??? Think someone needs to get hold of a PPS and disect it!

Well, as I understand it, when the idle switch on the pedal indicates err idle, then the ECU *should* refer to its idle map part of which contains a desired rpm, modifed by some % according to things like battery voltage, coolant temp etc. Therefore all T2's being equal they should all idle at...

Install some clear hose from filter to injection pump to check for air bubbles initially. Filter head primers love to leak, filters can leak on their top seal, and the chassis rail steel pipes can perforate, as can the rubber stubs ontop the fuel tank. Once you are totally certain it is not...

Belt squeaking or the compressor itself? Presumably whoever gased it did so with some fresh oil too ?

+1. fuel filter blocked, or sucking air from the meriad of usual places!

I have a 16" and a 13" in place of the viscous one, thermostatically controlled (on at 95c) with a manual override. Warmup in time winter is vastly reduced and mpg is DEFINATELY better by 2-3, I would even say 4-5mpg at times. Rest of year 1-2mpg. Truck is alot quieter & free from the bloody...

Good luck with the manifold and downpipe nuts. They are proper c**ts. I needed the gas on mine.

On the pedal sensor there is a dedicated idle switch. If the switch indicates "idle" to the ecu, then pressing the pedal will have zero effect. I am assuming that when you altered the set screw somehow the idle switch got 'altered' and wasnt actuating....

Never mind the tappets, you have a leaking exhaust manifold gasket.