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There are 3 common types of electrical supply systems to domestic and commercial premises. A) TNC-S A.K.A. PME B) TNS C) TT TNC-S or PME: The supply enters your home as 2 conductors Phase or live and a COMBINED Neautral and Earth. The earth connection provided by your network operator is...

i assume you are using a USB to RS232 serial adaptor, the error message probably pertains to this and not the ECU talk software. As suggested a driver update for the adaptor is likely required.

There should be a circlip on the end of the half shaft to prevent it from moving. If this is absent (and it would appear they sometimes are!) then the half shaft along with the reluctor ring can drift away from the sensor. With fixed hubs this only requires removing the dust cap to check, others...

You could just use a purpose made punchdown joint unit such as this: http://www.screwfix.com/p/philex-8-way-idc-junction-box/20849 If it's outside, then put the whole thing in a 100mm IP65 weatherproof box.

For future reference, ask your local pub landlord for some beer line cleaner. It's bleach without the detergent and perfume.....

not sure that the front prop length is entirely dictated by fuel type:... http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?p=302806&highlight=length#post302806

Off the top of my head:... carefully check the 6mm vacuum hoses from the turbo back to the 3 port control solenoid and beyond. If any of these have even a tiny leak the turbo control vanes will not move; resulting in no boost!

Just saw this on page 75 of the EC manual: You have 1.15V, so that would appear to be correct.. Where did you see .35V?

The IP pulls quite high transient current when adjusting the fueling. If there are any unsound connections that could limit the peak current available to operate the control sleeve, the IP it will likely throw the code you have. Check all of the ground connections first, the principal being on...

I suggest you hold the suction pipe up to the dipstick and check it is a little longer....

this one: http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/Mannesmann-01650-Oil-Suction-Scavenge-Pump-3l-min-12V-60-2609?IncVat=1&gclid=CjwKEAjwi9K4BRCQzq7d1c6A_XASJABueAO2SYeUuu_jkpQ43otom1PuNUW7nepuy1Ah12mJzoC4HRoCDpDw_wcB

I use a similar device on my Skoda, mainly because its such a bore removing the engine under tray. Works pretty well too, start the pump go have a coffee come back and sump is emptied straight into an old 5L container with no mess. As its so easy oil changes tend to more frequent than they may...

Something of that order is by far and away the simplest route to getting your lift up and running on a single phase supply.

There is enough land around the head of the screw to get some pliers on it. Once out replace with a a more conventional s/t screw.

IF you have modded/changed the exhaust and or air filter to improve gas flow, there is a good chance it may be registering the increased airflow as turbo over boost...

I've used this successfully: http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-glazing-silicone-clear-310ml/81431 Use masking tape around the periphery of the glass and remove when cured.

Those manufactured by MK have a shutter on the USB socket that disconnects them from the AC supply when no USB connector is inserted. They also claim to have safety standards to BS 1363-2 etc. But, they are around 25 quid a pop...

It is in the Time Control Unit, this is mounted immediately above the interior fuse panel.

It would appear that it is normal for the LCD to dislay trip meter, odometer, and clock at all times. When the ignition is switched on the only change on the LCD is that it now displays the temperature as well.

It could still prove useful to defeat the likes of Parking Eye et al.