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A mod. that would allow the box to change into top earlier would be to alter the VSS signal to the TCU, indicating that the vehicle speed is greater than the actual road speed. Have a look around the Australian Jaycar website as I seem to remember they sold such a device for speedo correction...

It all done by the TCU module and changing it's operation would not be trivial. There is however, a well documented mod to allow manual operation of the torque converter lock here: http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Lockup%20Trans%20Switch.htm

Here's the pile of rust that was masquerading as a bearing on one journal of my front prop UJ:

Ordinarily in normal driving if you lift your foot completey off the accelerator the ECU will reduce the fuelling to zero on over run in order to improve fuel economy. The speed sensor (VSS) is monitored during this condition to confirm vehicle is moving. My guess is that if the vehicle is in...

connect it up as you would if it were installed on the vehicle. Yes you MUST use a battery!

This suggests to me that the engine earth connection is bad. The starting current is possibly grounded via the fuel line! It could also prevent the battery from properly charging too. Try a jump lead between the engine block and the battery -VE terminal.

you will need to connect a small lamp (~2W) to the IND terminal for the internal regulator to work. The other connection on the lamp should be the the battery +VE.

Operational support technician for Norfolk fire & rescue service, here: http://www.norfolkfireservice.gov.uk/nfrs/live-incident-feed

The screws Alex is referring to are not really Torx, they are a 5 point tamperproof Bosch creation that a first sight can easily be mistaken for Torx.

The search facility on this forum frequently incurs criticism, however if you persevere you can generally find what you are looking for. The search engine on FB is awful, to the extent of being useless. Quality information is maintained here and can be found relatively easily.

Keep in mind the possibility of a failing crankshaft positition sensor.....

As you have confirmed its the RCCD tripping then damp/condensation in the wrong place the best route to pursue in the first instance.... There is a tendency in hot weather for humidity levels to be quite high and any relatively cool surface is likely to become wet.

Is the "trip" an RCCD (earth leakage) or is it an MCB (over-current). If RCCD then I would guess at damp/condensation getting into exposed live terminals etc. If MCB then there it is more likely to be an electrical fault, could be as simple as a wiring fault or worse case compressor....

Packing the tube with fine dry sand may help...

The closest in Norfolk I can think of that resembles a hill, is Ketts Hill in Norwich! Anyhow, I find the auto performs well when towing a 1300Kg van. If you keep a check on the speed the fuel consumption is not too bad either.

Looking at the location of the inlet I/C scoop it should be a 2.7. The ZD30 I/C scoop is offset to the O/S on the Terrano.

That loose hose may be a strong conteder for no vacuum/servo....

The gear that requires locking, may be a "scissor gear" or similar arrangement, it is in two parts with a spring preload to keep the gears closely meshed and minimise backlash. If the IP is removed without locking the two parts together one part of the gear will unwind and the spring will need...

Another way to determine the ratio is to count the teeth on the pinion and crown-wheel. eg. 8 teeth on the pinion and 35 teeth on the crown-wheel: 35/8 = 4.375:1

When the section of exhaust rear of the silencer box fell off on my ZD30, it would frequently go into limp mode or safe map. This was due to the lack of back pressure on the exhaust allowing over-boost. New tail section fitted and no further occurrences of limp mode. So, I would guess it depends...