Rear propshaft unijoint tips

[perelaar]

I finally got round to doing the uni-joints on the rear propshaft. The car started shuddering, rumbling, and said "clunck" when applying load under acceleration.

So, some tips for those who still have to do it:
- order the bolt kit at the same time as the UJs. Had to cut mine, no way they would loosen. Front propshaft no problem at all, rear impossible to get loose...
- I had to get a proper vise to press the old UJs out. Used a 19mm socket to press on one side, and cut the end of a 32mm spanner to use on the other end. An old 30mm socket or so will do fine as well, just did not have one around.
- don't try to cut a spanner with a hacksaw. Tool steel is tough!
- use very, very good circlip pliers. I broke mine, had to get the old circlips out with a screwdriver, hammer and lots of swearing. Was happy I was wearing safety glasses...
In the end, with all the time lost in trying to get the bolts loose, installing the vise and cutting the spanner, I only managed to get the diff side UJ out.

Source of the clunking, shuddering etc: one of the UJ ends had NO needle bearings at all inside anymore.

 

[jims-terrano]

Well done, I didn't do my front uj a member on here did it but he did stress how much of a pain it was so I can imagine the rear wouldn't be any better.

Bet it drives better now:clap:clap

 

[perelaar]

I'm not done yet

Still have to get gearbox end UJ out, and the new UJs in. And, before MOT next Wednesday, install new brake front brake hoses, rear brake shoes and cylinders, and passenger side bump stop. Seem to have lost the old one last week.
After that, fix squeaky wipers, apply non-slip paint to the loading floor to stop my dog tapdancing in the back, fix a rattle behind driver side door card, fix loose spotwelds in rear door,...

And when all that is done, something is probably rusting again

 

[jims-terrano]

Steady on there, you'll be the next one threatening to sell up:lol

You'll get there I'm sure. I keep looking at the project car and wonder if it'll ever be finished. Still chasing the rust that it didn't fail it's test on. The good thing is that it'll be a solid truck when finished. I've see the front cross member repaired on other trucks but the body mounts left. We've rebuilt the body mounts with 3mm plate in two layers welded around the edges to help prevent water getting between them. The repairs do feel very solid though just time consuming.

 

[perelaar]

trying to convince the missus that I really need to follow some courses on welding, and that I need the tools

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

trying to convince the missus that I really need to follow some courses on welding, and that I need the tools

Mine is convinced, and has been trying to find me a course, but there are not many down this way. All the ones we can find seem to be Day courses rather than evening.

 

[Banshee]

Cant be as bad as mine were on my Maverick

 

[perelaar]

Banshee, we should make a gallery here - the most rusted, crusted parts. And have an election. Winner gets a can of waxyol

 

[jims-terrano]

Banshee, we should make a gallery here - the most rusted, crusted parts. And have an election. Winner gets a can of waxyol

:lol:lol:lol:lol:lol

 

[Banshee]

Banshee, we should make a gallery here - the most rusted, crusted parts. And have an election. Winner gets a can of waxyol

You're on!!!!!

PropShaft UJ's
http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=244449&postcount=35

Front Wing of Maverick whilst Snorkel Fitting
http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=213651&postcount=17

 

[perelaar]

Exhaust, front wing. UJ pictures tonight. No crud inside, but no needle bearings either

 

[rayf3262]

Here's the pile of rust that was masquerading as a bearing on one journal of my front prop UJ:

 

[perelaar]

At least yours did still have needle bearings inside