y61 2.8 patrol issues

[Mr K]

Looking for some advice and suggestions please as I've had enough now.

Car has been in garage for a month now with an issue of a miss fire. Car has been like this for a long time now, not quite running right but at the same time livable with as it misses at about 1.5k so when driving don't really notice it. It is only really really bad when you start from cold and have the heat button on so revs are about 1200. Then when you drive off it stutters and puts out white/blue smoke when it misses, and misses really badly.

I was wanting to start modifying the truck but need this fixed first and slowly losing patience.

Put car in garage as said they got injectors checked, all good but one injector has an electrical sensor that adjusts fueling and this wasn't working. Brilliant I thought, that must be it. A month later garage gets injector, puts it all back together and no difference. :doh

At first I thought it might be the maf so I cleaned it but no difference. I know people say disconect it and if it runs the same then thats the fault but you cant do that with this engine, its all one unit.

There is no lambda sensor in exhaust, the maf does that job to control fueling.

Does anyone have any ideas, is it possible for the maf to be at fault and only make the car run a little bit off or if its stuffed would the car be undrivable.

Thanks for any input.

 

[Banshee]

Looking for some advice and suggestions please as I've had enough now.

Car has been in garage for a month now with an issue of a miss fire. Car has been like this for a long time now, not quite running right but at the same time livable with as it misses at about 1.5k so when driving don't really notice it. It is only really really bad when you start from cold and have the heat button on so revs are about 1200. Then when you drive off it stutters and puts out white/blue smoke when it misses, and misses really badly.

I was wanting to start modifying the truck but need this fixed first and slowly losing patience.

Put car in garage as said they got injectors checked, all good but one injector has an electrical sensor that adjusts fueling and this wasn't working. Brilliant I thought, that must be it. A month later garage gets injector, puts it all back together and no difference. :doh

At first I thought it might be the maf so I cleaned it but no difference. I know people say disconect it and if it runs the same then thats the fault but you cant do that with this engine, its all one unit.

There is no lambda sensor in exhaust, the maf does that job to control fueling.

Does anyone have any ideas, is it possible for the maf to be at fault and only make the car run a little bit off or if its stuffed would the car be undrivable.

Thanks for any input.

Are you confident that your guy knew what he was doing with the plugs?

 

[Mr K]

Yeah I think so, but how can you tell I suppose no matter how reputable :nenau

 

[Banshee]

Yeah I think so, but how can you tell I suppose no matter how reputable :nenau

Get the meter out on em and see if you get voltage before the relay clicks :thumb2

 

[Mr K]

I dont have access to it as it is still at the garage now, they want to send it to a diesel specialist.

Is the maf issue possible with my discription? It seems fuel related.

 

[Banshee]

I dont have access to it as it is still at the garage now, they want to send it to a diesel specialist.

Is the maf issue possible with my discription? It seems fuel related.

It's the blue smoke that's throwing me, hows the oil colour?

 

[Mr K]

It's the blue smoke that's throwing me, hows the oil colour?

Oil is normal black colour, or still a bit golden as got serviced not too long ago. Fuel filter also changed. There is no normal signs that point towards cracked head or gasket although not had a compression check.

Smoke is white when it does it but when driving it changes to a bit more white/blue before clearing but thats just checking in my mirrors when driving.

 

[Mr K]

To me it seems like a fueling issue. Just been back to garage with instructions to check maf and if ok could possibly still be maf sensor.

Found this on patrol site:

RD28
There should be White, Black and Red Term 1,2 &3
With the car idling warmed up in nuetral with the AC off there should be the following
The 2 (B) Should be reading 0v
The 3 (R) should be reading 1.6 to 2.0v

Withe the car off disconnect the MAF plug and turn the ignition on
The 1 (W) should be the battery voltage

If they dont read the battery voltage of the approx 5v at those respective termianls there is most likely a short in the system so check the connectors harnesses and plugs if they don't read the voltages at idle then there is most likely a fault with the MAF.

 

[Daemo]

does sound a bit like head gasket type symptoms, think I would want to rule it out first... I hope its nothing too expensive for you at this time of year.. do you still have your other truck to get about in or sold it?

 

[Mr K]

does sound a bit like head gasket type symptoms, think I would want to rule it out first... I hope its nothing too expensive for you at this time of year.. do you still have your other truck to get about in or sold it?

I hope to god the head is not cracked otherwise I don't know...

 

[solarman216]

I am not familiar with this engine but compressions I would check, does it sound regular when it is turning on the starter? a month to get an injector with sensor? is this garage real? did you have a fault code regarding this? what was the result of the maf testing? Rick

 

[Mr K]

I am not familiar with this engine but compressions I would check, does it sound regular when it is turning on the starter? a month to get an injector with sensor? is this garage real? did you have a fault code regarding this? what was the result of the maf testing? Rick

I cant say it strugles on starting. Starts quick and never thought it was irregular, never enough for me to think it was anyway. :nenau

It was about a month as injectors had to be checked, that took about a week, then took a couple of weeks to get the injector into the country you're right, the time was a bit much.
Never had a fault code, just the feedback from the garage testing the injectors, and not had the maf tested yet.

Bottom line, not happy. Its a really good truck otherwise but is it cost effective if the worst is the worst? Its cost me £500 already and no better than it was.

 

[solarman216]

Mmmmm I would bin the garage, you do not change an expensive sensor injector on a whim you need a code that says it is faulty, and as you say it made no difference, clearly they do not have a clue, there are plenty of mobile guys out there with diagnostic computers and they do not charge the earth like Nissan, get the codes, and make sure you get the old injector you may just need it one day, Rick

 

[Mr K]

Mmmmm I would bin the garage, you do not change an expensive sensor injector on a whim you need a code that says it is faulty, and as you say it made no difference, clearly they do not have a clue, there are plenty of mobile guys out there with diagnostic computers and they do not charge the earth like Nissan, get the codes, and make sure you get the old injector you may just need it one day, Rick

Cheers Rick

 

[Mr K]

Right, went to see the garage today and I conducted my own diagnostic check on the truck and it came back with zero faults. Whether thats good or bad I'm not sure as no answers to the problem.

The garage said they had completed a dye test to check the head and this came back fine. They will do another just to double check.

How expensive is a compression check and will this tell me anything different apart from the actual pressure. If I had a head gasket problem or head was cracked would the dye test tell me this or can the failure be so fine that the car would not run right but not show on test?

So, injectors checked, fine. One sensor faulty on injector and replaced. Diagnostic check done and zero faults recorded. Dye check done and passed.

Maybe fuel pipes?

 

[solarman216]

you need to drive it and then do the code check, battery disconnect zeros the codes, bet when you said you was coming they did just that, Rick

 

[solarman216]

dye test to check the head? that is a new one on me, most use a sniffer on the rad to detect combustion gases, Rick

 

[solarman216]

fault is a misfire if I have it right, has anyone checked the EGR system? do not know what it is like on your motor but could well cause a problem, what IP do you have? if it is the same as the 3Ltr then pump is most likely naff, Rick

 

[Mr K]

you need to drive it and then do the code check, battery disconnect zeros the codes, bet when you said you was coming they did just that, Rick

They never knew I was coming, I just popped in, got the keys and had a look. This is what I did to get the codes:

You need to bridge the 2 terminals on the consult plug, As you look at it there are 2 rows of seven terminals (It is not the same setup as the ZD30) With the ignition ON but not started, grab a length of wire and bridge the 2 terminals on the bottom left (see my rough guide below) Birdge for 3 seconds then remove and the light should start to flash, Repeat the same procedure to erase the code and remove the light till the problem comes back.

1111111
BB11111

The light will flash slowly then a break then faster flashes, so 2 slow flashes followed by 3 quick flashes would be 23 which is accell pos switch (which seems to be a common fault related to cruise control)

These are a list of the fault codes from my manual, I have these printed in the car all the time just in case.

NUMERICAL INDEX FOR DTC

11 CAM POS SEN (PUMP)
12 MAS AIR FLOW SEN
13 COOLANT TEMP SEN
14 VEHICLE SPEED SEN
15 CONT SLEEV POS SEN
17 ADJUST RESISTOR
18 F/INJ F/B 2
21 F/INJ TIMG F/B
22 F/INJ F/B
23 ACCEL POS SW (F/C)
25 ELECTRIC GOV
27 ECM 1
28 OVER HEAT
31 ECM 2
33 *1 I/C INT/A TEMP SEN
34 NEEDLE LIFT SEN
36 FUEL CUT S/V 1
37 FCV SHORT
38 FUEL CUT S/V 2
42 FUEL TEMP SENSOR
43 ACCEL POS SENSOR
47 CRANK POS SEN (TDC)
48 GOV CUT CIRCUIT
55 NO SELF DIAGNOSTIC
FAILURE INDICATED
—
141 - 148 X NATS MALFUNCTION EL section*2

 

[Mr K]

dye test to check the head? that is a new one on me, most use a sniffer on the rad to detect combustion gases, Rick

As far as I'm aware it was a check where it detects the gasses, it was either on the rad or expansion tank where if there was a problem the gasses would change the colour of the liquid. I think we are talking about the same thing?