Winch tray install

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just been having a look at work at what I can scrounge for a frame for the inside of the plastic bumper.not much room for anything too big but have found some lengths of 40 diameter tube which is down for scrapping so will have me a bit of that.
also going to put some sort of infills that will cover over the tray mounting bolts to hide them away from thieving eyes.
 
yeah its the only safe option really.

In the old days, when I had my Cibee spots, they were highly steal-able, and what we did was to make a collet that went over the bit of thread that stuck out below the nut. It had 2 Alan grub screws set at 45degees to each other. Once the lamps were on and set up, we would put the collet over the thread, and tighten the grub screws.

This basically distorted the thread, making it a lot harder to remove them even if you did take the collet off, but also, while people carry spanners, not everyone carries Alan Keys. We later changed the alan grub screws for tamperproof screws that needed a special tool, which was like an inverted torx.

I also had one of those alarms with an alarm loop wire, and I drilled a 2.5mm hole in the end of the thread, and passed a wire through them as well, but I like overkill.
 
have got the templates for mine which I could scan and send you if they will be any good:thumb2
 
In the old days, when I had my Cibee spots, they were highly steal-able, and what we did was to make a collet that went over the bit of thread that stuck out below the nut. It had 2 Alan grub screws set at 45degees to each other. Once the lamps were on and set up, we would put the collet over the thread, and tighten the grub screws.

This basically distorted the thread, making it a lot harder to remove them even if you did take the collet off, but also, while people carry spanners, not everyone carries Alan Keys. We later changed the alan grub screws for tamperproof screws that needed a special tool, which was like an inverted torx.

I also had one of those alarms with an alarm loop wire, and I drilled a 2.5mm hole in the end of the thread, and passed a wire through them as well, but I like overkill.

im going to weld the tray to the mounting brackets.will destroy my paint job but working in a powdercoating plant has its benefits.:lol
 
im going to weld the tray to the mounting brackets.will destroy my paint job but working in a powdercoating plant has its benefits.:lol

Wondered why you didn't in the first place but maybe to locate it to where you wanted with finer adjustments :thumbs
 
I did a version of the afn hidden winch mount which has the brackets then the tray bolted to them.
if I had just cut the centre out of the bumper they would have been hidden away behind it but because I cut the bumper in half its all exposed now.:doh
 
The templates would be good thanks Elton going to sort out the surface rust while I'm waiting for them to be made
 
Will get them to you tomorrow as they are at work:thumb2
 
Already on with the Mk II tray design.
Have you bought the tray with your winch?
 
Yes mate it came with a tray but needs cutting down, then looking at using 2" angle iron to bolt tray to side brackets and weld for a bit more strength
 
my mkII version is a fully welded tray and brackets with recovery points on it.
the whole assembly will just bolt to the chassis rails.
 
my mkII version is a fully welded tray and brackets with recovery points on it.
the whole assembly will just bolt to the chassis rails.

When you say the "Chassis rail", that is still the bit the bumper bolts on to, rather than the bit under the bumper where the pig tail, and bull bars bolt in? Or are you also drilling extra holes as well?

Is there any difference in strength between these different points? I know the professionally made front towbar mounts on the Pigtail bolt holes, but is that purely so you don't need a new front bumper, or more specifically for the strength of those mountings?
 
don't know which would be strongest to be honest.
I have just used the mounting points that many aftermarket winch tray manufactures use.
those little m10 bolts can take some shearing.
an 8.8 grade m10 bolt with a 1.5 pitch thread has a shear factor of 4730.5 KFM(kilogram force metres) or 46391 NM(newton metres)
might not mean much to some people but they can hold 4.7 metric tons.
 
might not mean much to some people but they can hold 4.7 metric tons.

Is that each???

I tend to be a belt and braces man, so over engineer most things, but when it gets to sheering limits of bolts etc, I am well out of my comfort zone and it tends to be as many as will reasonably fit:rolleyes:

I just wanted to ask specifically, as I am sitting on a see-saw here, between doing what you are doing, which I like the look of, and given the right components, is just within my ability, or cheating and going down the Winch on a towbar mount plate, and fitting a front towbar, which would then have a duel use, but uses the other holes.

The problem is, over the years, even if I had a winch fitted, I would have probably only have used it 5 or 6 times in my 20years of driving a 4x4, which makes it hard to justify the cost and work. The thing is, I am sure once I have a winch, I would probably try harder, so therefore invent the requirement for it, but that is a hard argument to drive past the good lady.:bow

To make it worse, we know 2 people who have had winches on the front that have seized up from all the salt that gets sprayed over them in the winter, and one of the guys had never even used his in anger, so the first time he needed it, it was useless. At least on a towbar mount, it can live in the garage when not needed, and in the boot, should we be going somewhere it may come in useful, plus I can use it for either direction.

Oh I hate making decisions where sizeable amounts of money are at stake:doh
 

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