What NATS version

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Goatmaster

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Feb 26, 2020
Messages
174
Terrano 2 1998 2.7 diesel with the separate Siemens 5wk4 782 418MHz two button, one red one black, door remote blipper. Transponder in key body in a red carrier.

The question I have is what NATS version is this indicative of? (Before I start cutting and joining wires)

Additional info, left the car for over 24 hours and tried again with spare key. Still just turning over and won't fire but this time the red LED just below the windscreen is going out. When the car stopped this was continuing to flash. It now goes out with both keys. Gave up turning the car over on third attempt as battery was beginning to get tired. It is now off the car on charge. New battery been on car about 6 weeks.
 
You have NATS 2 if the red light goes out then NATS has recognised the key but if you tried to start 3 times or more without being recognised then you will be locked out with all keys, only way round this is to get a car locksmith to re-pair the keys to the car, takes about 15 mins with the right kit, Rick
 
Thanks for the info Rick. What I don't understand then is if the led is now going out, surely the key is now being read?
I will try pairing the keys again tomorrow, which I think I will have to do anyway as the battery is now off.
I was hoping it was NATS v1 as info is available for bypassing that immobiliser unit.
 
Is it possible to clear the lock out using Consult II? Actually I presume that's the official software and I am thinking of ECUTalk. Somewhere I have it on an old XP laptop but it is hiding from me.

I will try and download it again and see if I can get it to run.

Not connected to car yet but I can see ECUTalk isn't going to be my saviour. Although I am hoping that it just might, by way of an error code, confirm if I am locked out or not.

Clutching at straws, I know but so short of cash paying for even a quick re-code on call out is really going to hurt.
 
Sorry mate no way round it s far as I know, but car locksmith much better than going to the stealers, but make sure you explain fully what car you have and the connector plug, Rick
 
Thanks again Rick. Time then to reconnect the battery and see what happens. I will try and connect up the laptop just to check the error codes. I'm presuming that being only a short distance the car should fire up fairly quickly? Or does it take a bit of turning over before the diesel gets to the injectors?
 
Quick update so as to provide info for anyone else. Reconnected battery. Remote still worked for the doors. Turned over but not firing. Connected up the laptop and ECUTalk gave error code 1402. Just as an experiment I did the 6x on/off reset on the remotes. Still not firing and this had added the error code 1401 to the first. The full error was given as
Code 1402 NATS Malfunction (0 starts)
 
I am assuming your motor is fly by wire, if it is not then I can get it running, Rick
 
You'll have to define fly by wire. If you could help/advise that would be brilliant.
Having a problem finding an auto electrician who still has the means of accessing the ECU of such an old car. The last one I spoke to advised getting hold of ECU Decode Ltd to remove the lot.
 
Has it got a intercooler? If yes “fly by wire”.

Also the door remote locking has nothing to do with the immobiliser, chances are yours is fly by wire and has the transponder chip built into the key which is picked up by the receiver that fits around the key barrel behind the cowling.

Ive seen this problem on the Facebook group for Terranos. A friend of mine temporarily bridged the positive of the battery to the glow plugs, I wouldn’t recommend his method with screwdrivers but you get the picture. That seems to get them started and then apparently after that it starts as normal without the positive being bridged.
 
Yes, it's the TDi so fly by wire. As in my first post, yes the transponder chip is in the key. It seems to be the fuel cut off that is the issue not glow plugs so forgive me but I'm a little sceptical as to that working.
 
Yes, it's the TDi so fly by wire. As in my first post, yes the transponder chip is in the key. It seems to be the fuel cut off that is the issue not glow plugs so forgive me but I'm a little sceptical as to that working.

Don’t worry it doesn’t bother me in the slightest if you ignore what has happened to several trucks on the Facebook group and were resolved by my friend.
Hopefully you’ll get it started before too long.
 
It is a TDI so the ECU completely controls the fuel shut off and fuel delivery amount, without the ECU accepting your key your car is going nowhere, Rick
 
Still unable to find anyone at all, let alone remotely local to me, who has the kit to reset ECU.
Now trying to find someone closer than ECU Decode to have the immobiliser function removed.
 
Just possibly have found a life line although I will have to open up the ECU to check if the correct chip is present. So, where is the ECU? I thought it was under the drivers seat but all I can see is the CD changer under there.
 
It varies, passenger footwell behind a metal plate is the usual place but can be behind the centre console, just need to hunt, Rick
 
So, I have found a controller of some sort behind the metal floor plate but totally flummoxed when it comes to pulling the leads out. Strange two finger sort of thing one end, that looks like the cocking level on the back of an M16. I pull it out but it is only moving about 5mm if that and the connectors remain solid. If there a knack to it or am I being too gentle?
 
8KwpvNM
 

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