Washer pump

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DeeTees

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2006
Messages
94
The washer pump when activated, manages to make its usual grunt but doesn't squirt.
Possibly this is a close to heart, real life experience for some of you ol' timers and I feel your pain, but on a mechanical level can a pump grunt but not squirt?
No liquid comes out at both windscreen and headlights area.
 
On my mav circa 1995, I have 3 washer pumps, front and rear screen and headlight washers. On the later Terranos there might be just two, one for both screens, which reverses the motor on the pump to select which screen, another for the headlight washers.

So if you have the same problem for both pumps, you mention screen and headlight washers, then it is a common fault that affects both.

Ok it's a long winded way of saying that I agree with Rick, and you might be frozen up lol, the nozzles would be my first point of call.

If you are not frozen up, then a bit obvious, check you have some water in the bottle lol

Rustic
 
I had washer pump trouble a while ago (1997 T2). I have one pump serving both front and back washers; polarity is reversed to make it pump one way or the other.

On mine the pump was actually dead, no noise at all. So if yours is grunting, the issue might be in the pipework or the nozzles. Or the internal fan in the pump might be broken, would allow the pump engine to rotate but nothing would come out...

Anyhow, fun repair: on mine the entire wing had to come off. I replaced the pump and all the pipework at the same time.
 
As said check for frozen fluid.

Pull one of the pipes off the back of the washer jet and try the washer again to see if water comes out of the pipe. If it does washer jets need cleaning.

If not follow the pipe back to the pump make sure it is not restricted in some way.

After that remove pipe from pump and test, though remember will possibly want to drain out of the pump at this point due to gravity but the pump will increase the flow.
 
The washer pumps on Terrano's are of a very strange design!!!
 
It could just be gunked up. If various different washer fluids have been used, they sometimes react with each other and produce a sticky film which can block tubes and nozzles. I had that on my first car.

:thumbs
 
It could just be gunked up. If various different washer fluids have been used, they sometimes react with each other and produce a sticky film which can block tubes and nozzles. I had that on my first car.

:thumbs

I'd get some anti biotics for that mate :thumb2
 
Definitely not frozen. And in any case I use the appropriate liquid, usually to -8C is suffice, except when it isn't.
But there's a (wet) storm outside now and I won't be venturing out with the toolkit anytime today.
Where is this pump? I've been trying to follow the sound of the grunt. There's the visible entry plastic container which has an exit at the bottom. I'll go as far back as I can with following the pipework. Is it a case of taking off the front wheel and the inner rubber layer of protection to gain access to the pump?
Harakiri would be too good an end for that designer.
 
You have to take off both the inner plastic wheel arch lining and the metal front wing. The largest part of the reservoir including the pump is hidden by the wing, completely inaccessible without removal of lining and wing.

However, it is possible to take off the lining and wing without removing the wheel, just leave the wheel on full lock. On the picture below you see the old pump on the floor, and the new pump installed. Note: drain your reservoir before removing the pump :)

IMG_20161223_172035_zpsq6pkvnat.jpg
 
Thanks Perelaar for the picture.
If it does turn out to be the case I will not go that far, that's a humiliating procedure, just to get at a dodgy washer pump.
If it comes to it, I'd rather bypass it and install something more simple, removing that entry container.
VW use to have peculiar washer systems, the Beetle's was connected to the spare wheel under the bonnet and the Transporter van's was filled up through an opening by the left footwell. But this one takes the biscuit.
 
If you remove the plastic liner it is possible to get your hand behind to push the pump up out of its mounting in the tank. This is why nissan made paper thin wings that rot out, makes it far easier to replace the pump. Notice on the picture that there is both pipes on the same pump and also there is the level indicator sensor located next to the pump in the tank as well but this picture doesn't show this. I have some close up shots in my project thread somewhere.

Typical at some point around your truck nissan placed the tank on the inner wing behind headlamp at the opposite side.
 
Washer Pump issues.

I had to replace the pump on my Terrano r3mR, it started to pump so badly the fluid would not reach the screen. When I took the pump out there was a huge lump of blue snot clogging it up. I flushed the tank out and likewise the pipes and pump body. It worked half halfheartedly for a few weeks.

The pump then failed completely so I replaced it all done by just loosening the wheel arch liner and working through the gap like a gynecologist. It took two weeks for the abrasion marks on my hands to heal up. I should have taken the liner right off.

The big lump of blue snot I guess was dye separation form years of screen washer fluid being added. Must have been cheap Woolworths grade stuff the previous owned put in it.
 
Once you sort out your tubes and clear the snot I have a top tip for you .
I use a plastic fuel filter inline from the pump to the windscreen jets. This has kept my Jap's eyes clear for years :D
 
The washer pump when activated, manages to make its usual grunt but doesn't squirt.
Possibly this is a close to heart, real life experience for some of you ol' timers and I feel your pain, but on a mechanical level can a pump grunt but not squirt?
No liquid comes out at both windscreen and headlights area.

When my pump 'failed' I got several very peculiar electrical symptoms (diagnosed as a faulty multi-switch) as well as 'noise but no flow'. Changing the switch made no difference (except to my wallet; groan!). In desperation, after being quoted stupid money by Nissan, On a hunch I took the pump to my local parts shop & got them to find the same-looking pump listed under Renault...they found one at 1/5th the price! Branded 'High Tech' part no. PEWP23. Result: perfect!
BTW, I still want to know what the 'u'-shaped pipe does that sticks out from the pump. no-one seems to have the faintest idea LOL. I also still don't know what was wrong with the original Nissan-branded pump (apart from being made in some back-street in Czechoslovakia!).
 
When my pump 'failed' I got several very peculiar electrical symptoms (diagnosed as a faulty multi-switch) as well as 'noise but no flow'. Changing the switch made no difference (except to my wallet; groan!). In desperation, after being quoted stupid money by Nissan, On a hunch I took the pump to my local parts shop & got them to find the same-looking pump listed under Renault...they found one at 1/5th the price! Branded 'High Tech' part no. PEWP23. Result: perfect!
BTW, I still want to know what the 'u'-shaped pipe does that sticks out from the pump. no-one seems to have the faintest idea LOL. I also still don't know what was wrong with the original Nissan-branded pump (apart from being made in some back-street in Czechoslovakia!).

Quality mod :thumb2 great idea to get the motor factor checking stock:clap
 

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