Voltage problems

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ps, I know the guy that manufactures these units, same issue everytime.
 
1, There is nothing wrong with your glow plug or alternator.

2, Your issue is your plug is over heating and burning out prematurely.
Have you got your pre-heater after the fuel filter?
If so, probably time to change your filter.
Have you got clear braided fuel hose from the pre-heater?get some!
You will no doubt see tiny air bubbles in the svo.

Your problem is air in the pre heater block, the glow plug is not fully immersed in fluid causing it to over heat.
I have had three of the heaters on various motors, and found mounting them side ways so the fuel inlet is at bottom and outlet at the top cures the problem.
Hope this solves your problem.



Thats informitive & from a voice of experience :thumbs
 
1, There is nothing wrong with your glow plug or alternator.

2, Your issue is your plug is over heating and burning out prematurely.
Have you got your pre-heater after the fuel filter?
If so, probably time to change your filter.
Have you got clear braided fuel hose from the pre-heater?get some!
You will no doubt see tiny air bubbles in the svo.

Your problem is air in the pre heater block, the glow plug is not fully immersed in fluid causing it to over heat.
I have had three of the heaters on various motors, and found mounting them side ways so the fuel inlet is at bottom and outlet at the top cures the problem.
Hope this solves your problem.


Thanks for the help :thumb2 ....but I have made several checks/moves to check things out.............................


Mine is not the heater in fuel type :) reports from people who have same type as me do not report the same problem.

I bled the block (so to speak) to remove any air bubbles. There werent any :thumb2

The fuel filter has only been in 1500 miles, I would have thought its highly unlikely it needs changing :nenau

The glow plug is in contact with heat absorbing or conducting material so almost certainly no air gap or burning out because of radiant heat issues :thumb2

Its a good un
 
Thats informitive


It is informative......but the cause of fault described relate to a completely different method of operation.

Theres 2 ways these units operate. DJ's friend makes one type, I've got the other :rolleyes:

Debate rages around which is the most effective and its pretty much stalemate looking at all available info :nenau
 
Theres 2 ways these units operate. DJ's friend makes one type, I've got the other :rolleyes:

Debate rages around which is the most effective and its pretty much stalemate looking at all available info :nenau


But as long as it works ;)

Its all about the end result :thumbs
 
Theres 2 ways these units operate. DJ's friend makes one type, I've got the other :rolleyes:

Debate rages around which is the most effective and its pretty much stalemate looking at all available info :nenau


As long as it works :thumbs

Its the end result what matters :thumbs
 
I think youve missed the point here, whilst DJ's info is good, it aint relevant to mine so the problem isnt solved by following it ;)


:doh Thats the problem being blonde & from Essex,thank god i'm not a women :augie :lol:lol:lol

Miss read,thought ya'd sorted it :doh
 
The fuel filter has only been in 1500 miles, I would have thought its highly unlikely it needs changing :nenau

What you running through this block SVO, WVO or Bio, if either of te last 2 its highly likely that you're filter may need changing earlier than usual especially wen you first start using them. Its the cleaning effect they have on the fuel system, dragging all the crud out of the tank and pipes. Even SVO is said to have this effect though from my research it is not to the same extent.
 
Have for the mo mate, at least Ihave if the latest offerng from Bosch doesnt blow :confused:


Good :clap

Ya just have to HATE anything to do with electrics,takes so long to get to the bottom of the problem :banghead
I cant stand electrics :surrender
 
What you running through this block SVO, WVO or Bio, if either of te last 2 its highly likely that you're filter may need changing earlier than usual especially wen you first start using them. Its the cleaning effect they have on the fuel system, dragging all the crud out of the tank and pipes. Even SVO is said to have this effect though from my research it is not to the same extent.

I wont touch WVO, its svo and occasional bio used. I changed the last filter because of possible potential dirt and crap after I'd been using the svo for a while.

I reckon I will change it soon again anyway to make sure ;)

But even if the block was dry or drier than it should be , the glow pug shouldnt burn out because it heats the ali block not the liquid and the thermo takes its cue from the temp of the ali block, not the liquid or lack of it inside :thumb2 however when heat is dissipated from the block be it either by liquid flow through it, fresh air through it or around it , the glow plug will still switch off and stop heating the block once it reaches the approriate temp.

Even total fuel starvation or it accidentally left on for some reason should not damage it. That was one of several reasons I went for this design :thumb2

Can you pm me quote for a new fuel filter ;) cheers

To do with the radiant v's contact heat....the small gap there is at the end is so full of heatsink compound I reckon my next problem will be a hydraulic lock in there :lol:lol:lol:lol:augie
 
Are you using SVO, or virgin rape oil?


By "virgin rape oil" I take it you mean first pressed rapeseed oil :confused:

You've lost me a bit with definitions there, I use straight veg oil ie svo, I understand that can cover any kind.

I buy entirely on price and have used sunflower, rapeseed and soya.

Why :confused::confused: I'm intrigued ;):D
 
Is there any way of altering the on off cycle of the heater plug?

Good idea, you can use an electronic device (all from maplins) a NE 555 timer (or two) with a few components, resistors, one variable resistor, capacitors, a piece of vero board and a small transistor and a diode , you can drive the relay on the heater so the relay clicks in, for an adjustable "duty cycle" say 80% this will not waste any energy and could be adjustable say 50 - 100%. I made one many years ago, not for this application though, but should do the trick.
If I can find the circuit I will advise.

best regards, Rustic
 
Good idea, you can use an electronic device (all from maplins) a NE 555 timer (or two) with a few components, resistors, one variable resistor, capacitors, a piece of vero board and a small transistor and a diode , you can drive the relay on the heater so the relay clicks in, for an adjustable "duty cycle" say 80% this will not waste any energy and could be adjustable say 50 - 100%. I made one many years ago, not for this application though, but should do the trick.
If I can find the circuit I will advise.

best regards, Rustic
Even better if you can use a soldering iron, try this from Maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?TabID=1&criteria=usb&ModuleNo=220011&C=SO&U=Strat15 you can use the output of the relay on the board to drive the main power relay.
There are many circuits on the net, google "555 astable duty cycle" and there are many circuits that can be adapted to do the job.
The main issue is working out the resistor values and ensuring that the output from the 555 is not overloaded hence a transistor is required and a diode to protect the transisitor from back EMF ( spike) from the relay coil.. But the Maplin kit looks as though they will give you options on timing etc and just connect the output to your relay. Cheap enough too and it's on a circuit board. Data sheet on the link to have a look at.

Best regards, Rustic
 
Thanks for all of the continuing ideas and thoughts really appreciated....the answers there somewhere :thumb2

Rustic.I love the idea of that circuit, my electronics stopped at btec in the 1980's when those "new ic's" were being discussed buut we concentrated on transistors!!!! (I actually worked on an analogue computer !!! ....I digress) so its a revelation to see theres still simple stuff for me to use :thumb2

I can see uses for the timer but I cant see it being useful here unless I'm missing the point (please point out if I am :doh ) as the need for the glow plug to operate is temp driven and controlled by the thermostat ?

I'm was wondering if theres something these units are lacking eg is there an air gap in there as standard and the maker has screwed up with maybe an undersized glow plug :confused: :nenau

I'm in the process of going through his feedback and emailing as many people as poss who have bought these. The answers so far are that they are working no problem :D

The answer may well be I've been the one in a whatever number who's had two dodgy glow plugs on the trot.

We'll see :thumb2
 

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