Viscous fan removal

[nejones]

Thanks Tom some good info there.

This is the thermostat I was looking at, any thoughts anyone.

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p6098/RADIATOR-FAN-THERMOSTAT-FIXED/product_info.html

 

[Terranosaurus]

I was looking at this today as I intend to do it eventually. Think I might drill and tap the thermostat housing to take an OE ford fan switch which are available in different temperatures. Used to work on a Mk2 cortina that had had this done and it was very reliable.

Not sure I agree with the idea of putting the probe/switch in the bottom hose. The idea of the thermostat etc is to try to maintain a constant upper cylinder temperature which has been forund by the manufacturer to produce best power/economy/reliability etc. If that temperature rises above that level (ie set switch to kick in a bit above thermostat fully open temp) then you need additional cooling. I'm not sure having the probe in the bottom hose will be as sensitive.

Something like this one - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RADIATOR-FAN-...286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:15|39:1|240:1318

 

[tezzer]

best mod i ever did to my vitara so i did the same on my mav

if you follow my workshop download, you can use any fan size you want. the only reason i used twin 10" fans was because my thermostat from x-eng had the capacity for two fans: a low temp one and a high temp one.

beware with the capillary thermostats (bulb) as they can be a bugger to seal. also, i would recommend fitting to the bottom hose as thatll be the temp entering the engine. if you fit it to the top hose your fan will come on everytime the thermostat opens, which is pointless!

one last thing. im intending on fitting my twins behind the rad soon (too make way for my aircon), however there is the slight problem of a nasty viscous hub in the way! i tired removing it from an old water pump using a hammer and chisel (thinking it was 'screwed' on) and also a ball joint splitter (thinking it was lightly pressed on). result: it didnt budge!! its pressed on tight, so itll have to be cut off which ill do later on in the year.

hope that helps some people

why do you want to remove viscous unit? best to leave on in case you need to refit fan, to seal thermo unit kenloew sell a rubber pad with a groove for the capilary pipe hopefully should seal ok. :thumb2



tezzer

 

[Terranosaurus]

why do you want to remove viscous unit? best to leave on in case you need to refit fan, to seal thermo unit kenloew sell a rubber pad with a groove for the capilary pipe hopefully should seal ok. :thumb2

I've used those in the past and with a touch of silicon sealant they seal fine.

 

[Whatmot]

I was looking at this today as I intend to do it eventually. Think I might drill and tap the thermostat housing to take an OE ford fan switch which are available in different temperatures. Used to work on a Mk2 cortina that had had this done and it was very reliable.

Not sure I agree with the idea of putting the probe/switch in the bottom hose. The idea of the thermostat etc is to try to maintain a constant upper cylinder temperature which has been forund by the manufacturer to produce best power/economy/reliability etc. If that temperature rises above that level (ie set switch to kick in a bit above thermostat fully open temp) then you need additional cooling. I'm not sure having the probe in the bottom hose will be as sensitive.

Something like this one - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RADIATOR-FAN-...286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:15|39:1|240:1318

thats similar to mine, only i have a hose adaptor for mine. surely placing the thermostat in the bottom hose then detects when the radiator isnt cooling enough??

tezzer, i feel i have no need to keep it on. i need to space in front of the rad for my twin fans. if i want to refit the viscous fan ill just have to buy a new pump

 

[Terranosaurus]

surely placing the thermostat in the bottom hose then detects when the radiator isnt cooling enough??

How do you know how hot/cold the water should be going into the engine? and not only that the temperature needed on the input will vary depending how hard the engine is working.

Whereas it is quite easy to find in the manual that the thermostat starts opening at 82 and is fully open at 95 so you can set/choose the fan switch accordingly.

 

[Lee3197]

I think that the X-Eng thermostatic switch is the best idea, as it is housed in a collar that fits into the hose. The hose has to be cut, and the collar fits in-line. No messing about trying to seal a capilary sensor.

Lee. :thumbs