Veg Oil or Dirty Oil (Diesel)

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....................so the heater is not 100% necessary, but can only benefit the system if you can have one ?

Is this cheap one would do the trick :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WVO-SVO-PPO-B...g_Air&var=&hash=item82638b9965#ht_19946wt_905

thanks


nope, not needed, but I think runs better with it

I have one like this...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAILLANT-242V...arden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item45f8c2c09f

rest of my bits came from

http://www.oilybits.com/

he has every thing you need.


http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9850&highlight=heat+exchanger&page=2

some pics of mine,
 
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....................so the heater is not 100% necessary, but can only benefit the system if you can have one ?

Is this cheap one would do the trick :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WVO-SVO-PPO-B...g_Air&var=&hash=item82638b9965#ht_19946wt_905

thanks

Having used one very similar to that yes, it is very effective in the context I described above (thats tried and tested during the winter not armchair researched on a limited number of sites :thumb2)

Not essential but useful if you up the mix whilst the temp drops.

As mentioned earlier whilst theres a bit of basic engineering and common sense involved theres very little scientific evidence beyond some basic do's and donts. Youll find conflicting stories all over the place. Dont rely on one source (including here) for all of your guidance :thumbs
 
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That one is fine when once the engine is running. But if it is warm enough to make it to engine it becomes a bit superfluous most of the time.

Do you have a thermostat to it?

You also have it mounted (and presumably the hose routed) in a fairly unsuitable location. Theres absolutely no way that will produce best result :thumb2


ps sorry if youve seen the post up above before i edited it , I misread what you said ;)
 
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That one is fine when once the engine is running. But if it is warm enough to make it to engine it becomes a bit superfluous most of the time. runs better i think when running 100% veg

Do you have a thermostat to it? nope its in the cab heater loop

You also have it mounted (and presumably the hose routed) in a fairly unsuitable location. Theres absolutely no way that will produce best result :thumb2 mine is other side to battery tray, ( K&N may be better with a heat sheald, not sure yet )


ps sorry if youve seen the post up above before i edited it , I misread what you said ;)

just the way i think feel, warmer oil will make the pump work less hard trying to pull cold thicker fuel through, and the return to the tank warms that up a little, so maybe a bit easyer to start next time as oil is maybe a bit warmer
 
confusing

Guys,

this is getting confusing again :doh

If I get the one from ebay, do I need to get other stuff after ?

Is there anything else I can use to warm up the oil before the start or it does work fine as mention above ?
 
Guys,

this is getting confusing again :doh

If I get the one from ebay, do I need to get other stuff after ?

Is there anything else I can use to warm up the oil before the start or it does work fine as mention above ?

Confused? You're a frenchman living in Ireland???:doh:lol

Seriously it depends on when you want to use it. The following points may help:

1. In summer (say 8-10C or above) then ratios of 50-100% are fine. But if you stick to say 2:1 (SVO to Diesel) you'll be fine. NO heating needed at all.

2. If you want to use it in winter, high volumes of SVO would benefit from a heater of some kind, but none of them will prevent lumpy starting because there is always cold mix in the pipes immediately before the engine that won't get heated. That lumpy starting is just that, doesn't last long. People are using 30-50% SVO in winter without any apparent issue until it gets seriously cold.

3. If you do use a heater, the best sort is the combined glowplug/cooling circuit variant.....this lets the collant do the job once its up to temperature, turning the glowplug off. If its just a glowplug-only version, not so good as that thing is on much of the time (albeit subject to a thermostat) using a fair bit of current.

4. The easiest way by far would be to fit the heated fuel filter housing from an earlyish Peugeot diesel (it was developed to tackle diesel thickening in the days when there was no such thing as summer/winter diesel) but someone like Timbo would need to tell us if its flow rate is OK?

5. Either of the types in 3 above (glowplug or glowplug+coolant) should be ready to install and need nothing else....assuming they come with jubilee clips and wiring.

But my advice would be don't mess around for now....just try it and see how it goes. If it gets freezing and you get lumpiness, just whack some more diesel in and problem goes away.:thumb2

Daved is right in what he says but he was an all-year round user with very high ratios of SVO so I'd have expected him to encounter the odd issue in really cold weather.
 
just the way i think feel, warmer oil will make the pump work less hard trying to pull cold thicker fuel through, and the return to the tank warms that up a little, so maybe a bit easyer to start next time as oil is maybe a bit warmer

Quite probably

But itll actually chill the oil in the early stages and your heat exchanger is in the open in the airflow, so that will be getting cooled all the time (on pics anyway). Not what you want for a cab or oil heater circuit at all.

The whole point in the cab is that heat is lost into the cab from the circuit via a rad/heat exchanger not through a radiator in the main underbonnet area into open air, thats what the rad up front is for.

The answer actually is that for max effect you need both types of heater.

If you only fit one probably the electric better for early cold/cool running.

That has been debated and concluded on those sites you posted links to a while back.

There was also an article on one of them on how to prevent cold water flowing through the heat exchanger by making up a very very simple thermostat & housing which would increase its usability 100 fold.

I cant recall what vehicle it was on but it actually improved the overall heating/cooling system on the the truck because it could be bled to make sure there were no airlocks in the whole thing :thumb2
 
3. If you do use a heater, the best sort is the combined glowplug/cooling circuit variant.....this lets the collant do the job once its up to temperature, turning the glowplug off. If its just a glowplug-only version, not so good as that thing is on much of the time (albeit subject to a thermostat) using a fair bit of current.


Just answered Zippy and mentioned which kind is the best should have read your post first ;) :bow

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WVO-SVO-PPO-B..._Hearing_Cooling_Air&var=&hash=item800f9e83c3

If you decide to attempt it seriously something like this will definitely help.

It will tuck away sheltered with the absolute min of fuss and extra hose on the opp side to your air filter.

However as itll set you back about £100 you need to do some maths and costings to see if you want to go that far :thumb2

They fit neatly here:



100_6127.JPG



even a ready made screw for the relay mounting :D

100_6129.JPG
 
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I also put an illuminated isolator switch here so when it was switched on and clicked in on the thermostat the led on the switch came on

100_6125.JPG
 
And heres Icemans where he installed one (very neatly) on the filter side of things as opposed to the pump :thumb2

img0305.jpg
 
hads keys cut to your house and got addy of members map,your gonna wake up in mornin to find a bloody great poncy mirror in your front room lol!
 

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