Upper Control Arm Bushing Replacement

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Man power and a big g clamp. Finally got the last bit home by using loob big washers and the arm nuts ☺

I ran out of manpower so opted for the washer/nut approach which is what stripped the thread from the fulcrum pin :doh


That kit wouldn't really work for me as I wouldn't be able to get the kit around it as it looks like on the arm that the guy is doing the job on in the video, you can remove the pin which is half the battle won anyways


I'm super tempted just to hit order on that :nenau Will there deffo be enough clearance to get the arm in there side on Elts? Looks as if you can drop the base to give more of an opening.

Suppose I can use this to do UJ's too in the future rather than stressing the vice out too much, I shattered a Record No3 in half before pressing UJ's into a prop :eek:
 
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A hydraulic press is a use full piece of kit to have in the workshop anyway see if you can find a second hand press local to you on e.bay etc larger the capacity the better.
 
I ran out of manpower so opted for the washer/nut approach which is what stripped the thread from the fulcrum pin :doh



That kit wouldn't really work for me as I wouldn't be able to get the kit around it as it looks like on the arm that the guy is doing the job on in the video, you can remove the pin which is half the battle won anyways



I'm super tempted just to hit order on that :nenau Will there deffo be enough clearance to get the arm in there side on Elts? Looks as if you can drop the base to give more of an opening.

Suppose I can use this to do UJ's too in the future rather than stressing the vice out too much, I shattered a Record No3 in half before pressing UJ's into a prop :eek:

Not checked the dimensions of it Zac,was just the first one that eBay spat out when I did a search.
The base is adjustable but I would measure what clearance you are going to need and check the specs of the press before ordering:thumb2
 
So hydraulic press ordered I got my mojo back and went out to the garage again tonight and toyed with the damaged arm ready to be prepared with the best methods for when my new ones get here from Rick next week :thumb2

I've worked out the best way of installing the Polybushes and crucially I've managed to get the old metal inserts off too and also worked out how these work and maintain their torsional properties.

And like Zippy would say, this thread is useless without pics :lol

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Well I wasn't expecting that :doh
I've been YouTubeing replacing them there bushes but I didn't see any with a bolt thing right through. :nenau
 
They are a pig of a job for what they are.
I took mine into work and got busy with the old fly press.
 
The outer part of a bush which is pushed in to a sleeve can be removed with the assistance of a welder. Just run a bead of weld around the inside of the bush, trick is not to go all the way around. It works by creating lots of heat in the bush which contracts when it is cools & the bush will practically just fall out this also works well with bearings which are pressed in to a housing. Remember to only weld about 2/3 of the inside otherwise it will not be able to contract.
 
The outer part of a bush which is pushed in to a sleeve can be removed with the assistance of a welder. Just run a bead of weld around the inside of the bush, trick is not to go all the way around. It works by creating lots of heat in the bush which contracts when it is cools & the bush will practically just fall out this also works well with bearings which are pressed in to a housing. Remember to only weld about 2/3 of the inside otherwise it will not be able to contract.

Cool tip man, ummmm or hot :lol :thumb2
 
All sorted now :thumb2

Hydraulic Press turned up on Friday so I put it together and very impressed with it for the money :thumb2

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Also got the upper arms from Rick earlier in the week and noticed that they were WAY heavier and better made than the ones that came off mine :eek: Seems the later upper arms are another cost cutting exercise by Nissan/Renault

As can be seen below on the earlier ones there is a re-enforced section that the front bumpstops can make contact against

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Time to clean them up

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All re-fitted along with some new Moog upper ball joints too and some new front anti roll bar polybushes and D Clamp bushes, I'll start another thread about those :mad:

I'll report back with my findings next week
 
I got the same press but miffed big time, mine is red and my personal colour is blue, so how come you got a blue one? on the plus side my press plates have notches in them, far better so there, :rolleyes: Rick
 
I got the same press but miffed big time, mine is red and my personal colour is blue, so how come you got a blue one? on the plus side my press plates have notches in them, far better so there, :rolleyes: Rick

The one I was looking at on eBay allowed me to select a colour, I had the choice of Black, Red & Blue.
 
If the press is mounted over a hole in the bench you should be able to press rear wheel bearings and the brake back plate off of rear half shafts.
 
If the press is mounted over a hole in the bench you should be able to press rear wheel bearings and the brake back plate off of rear half shafts.

But you would need some method of connecting the the press to the bearing puller/clamp for it to work, Rick
 
Yes a length of tube welded to a flat plate with holes drilled to accept the bearing flange

so how do you connect that to the press? a half shaft sized hole plus a tube will not accommodate the plate needed to rest on the bottom frame of the press, yes you could use a short tube of suitable dimensions to go over the long tube and bolt it to it etc etc but for a one off it is far easier to angle grind the bearing and hit it with a chisel, if you a contemplating many bearing pulls then yes it may just be worth it, Rick
 

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