Trouble Bleeding clutch

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clivvy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
6,918
hey guys,

just hoping for some advice or words of wisdom?!

I removed my clutch dampner pipe as it was leaking, and cut out the rusty section of pipe and replaced with rubber hose (temporarily) but so far I haven't been able to bleed the clutch. I feel that all I am doing is flushing fluid through the system - the pedal if push down will stay down.

I am bleeding in the way described in various posts on here, but I am wondering if the problem is the dampner pipe, should it be solid, is the rubber the issue?

I am bleeding by connecting a bit of clear pipe to the master in the engine bay (or is it the slave!?) and bleeding by opening the screw, push pedal down, close screw, pull pedal up slowly, and repeat, top up fluid, then do the same at the master underneath. I have also tried to repeat the steps on the dampner bleed valve but its seized, so instead ive undone the jubilee to allow the fluid to flow, then tightened.

tried this several hundred times, but no change in the pedal returning as if under hydraulic pressure...!

What am I doing wrong?!? help!
 
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if you cant bleed the damper remove it altogether and blank end by junction block where the flexy to slave goes so it bleeds easier.
 
if you cant bleed the damper remove it altogether and blank end by junction block where the flexy to slave goes so it bleeds easier.

cheers chap.

yeah that does seem to be the problem. Mick mentioned to do the same as I have used a long piece of fuel hose to bridge the gap I had made cutting away the rusted pipe - this rubber hose must be causing some issue as well.
SpudsDeep is sending me a brake pipe, so that I can remove the junction box altogether - fingers crossed that works?!

If not, Ill do what you suggest and re fit the junction box with a blanking end on the dampner pipe:thumbs
 
Before you go too far... You say you are bleeding it in the engine bay?

On some T2's there are 2 bleed nipples, one on the master cylinder under the bonnet, and the one you really should be using is the one on the Slave Cylinder, which is under the car on the side of the gearbox, same location as where the damper pipe splits off.

There is also a third bleed nipple at the far end of the damper pipe above the rear axle.

sent from my phone, sorry for any typo's.
 
cheers mate, yeah im bleeding at all three (unsuccessfully) which leads me to believe its the damper pipe. I'm essentially just flushing clutch fluid through the system, the pedal fails to return as there isn't pressure (I assume)
 
cheers mate, yeah im bleeding at all three (unsuccessfully) which leads me to believe its the damper pipe. I'm essentially just flushing clutch fluid through the system, the pedal fails to return as there isn't pressure (I assume)

as soon as you get that flexi on m8 it should sort it :thumbs
 
as soon as you get that flexi on m8 it should sort it :thumbs

cheers buddy its a real generous thing you done mate and fingers crossed it fixes the problem. I'm looking forward to doing the job, hopefully tomorrow night.
 
Cant you just put a bolt through the damper bit and block it off? :nenau
 
Cant you just put a bolt through the damper bit and block it off? :nenau

probably, but I haven't yet - I don't like messing about with things I am learning about, so I am trying to make sure i understand what I am doing and not make a mess. I did figure that perhaps I should do that, but I wanted to try repairing the pipework first - this didn't work of course!
 
Sounds like your master cyl may have failed, this sometimes happens after bleeding as the small amount of residual pressure that was keeping the rubber expanded, is lost and the rubber collapses, and no amount of pumping will restore it, you will often hear the term in the trade, "master cyl has collapsed" this is what is being referred to, Rick
 
I hope not Rick, but if it has at least its not an expensive part, and I assume not too difficult to replace?!
 
I hope not Rick, but if it has at least its not an expensive part, and I assume not too difficult to replace?!

easy, remove the clevis pin inside the car, two nuts on the cyl and the pipe nut, Rick
 
easy, remove the clevis pin inside the car, two nuts on the cyl and the pipe nut, Rick

cheers Rick, if time ill do the damper pipe tonight and if that doesn't cure it, order a new master...
 
I put a flexi pipe on and did away with the damper on mine, clutch has been great ever since.:thumb2
 
well, did the job today! I got a brake pipe from Richo but this didn't work - the clutch pipe that screws into the end of the brake pipe wouldn't screw in fully no matter what I did, and so leaked everywhere.

In the end I had to blank it off using a stop end and this worked great, took about 15 mins to fill and bleed and the pedal returned to normal AND its actually LESS noisy and feels better. Haven't been for a drive yet (just up and down the driveway) as I need to tax the car.

20141011_135010_Android.jpg

I then did my LSD oil, what came out was black, what went in was golden. Had to drive the rear wheels up onto a ramp, and use a hosepipe/funnel for the first two litres then squeezed a little bit more in using the spout on the bottle.
 

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