t2 feels like its holding back ?????

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wow all thats gone straight over my head guys :confused: lol

the water pump change was nice and easy the gasket on the between the pump and block had disappeared :eek: and the bearing inside was make a funny crunching noise.

so i guess i caught it in time !

so badger you reckon my afm is also on its way out ?

so can with regards too the egr valve if i remove it id need blanking plates ?
and if i got rid of the egr valve could i also remove the butterfly ?

i wont have any after negative effects on engine will be removing the above ?

i must sound like a dunce but im a petrol head and the terrano is my winter motor and general dogs body or dads taxi should i say ha ha !

I think theres a download for blanking off the EGR valve using a ball bearing, thats all thats needed. As for the butterfly, be careful; if its the one I think it is, then its part of the anti-shake system that kicks in when you turn the engine off.
 
i think you may be wrong about that, the throtle valve is part of the egr system, nothing to do with engine stopping, not sure where that came from.
it is in the manual, with full description.
page 431

The ECM receives signals sent from the engine coolant temperature
sensor, crankshaft position sensor (TDC), ignition switch etc.
to determine engine speed and operating conditions. Based on
these signals, the ECM controls EGRC-solenoid valve (A and B)
operation and throttle solenoid valve operation.
The EGR control stops when engine coolant temperature is below
45°C (113°F), at idling, at starting and when the system components
and engine speed signals are disordered.
 
i think you may be wrong about that, the throtle valve is part of the egr system, nothing to do with engine stopping, not sure where that came from.
it is in the manual, with full description.
page 431

The ECM receives signals sent from the engine coolant temperature
sensor, crankshaft position sensor (TDC), ignition switch etc.
to determine engine speed and operating conditions. Based on
these signals, the ECM controls EGRC-solenoid valve (A and B)
operation and throttle solenoid valve operation.
The EGR control stops when engine coolant temperature is below
45°C (113°F), at idling, at starting and when the system components
and engine speed signals are disordered.

I think Lacroupade was referring to the anti judder flap in the inlet path.
Should snap shut on engine stop then slowly open.
 
blanking plate, goo, is exhaust paste, similar plate on exhaust manifold.
 

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the only one i can see on mine is the throtle valve on the top of the inlet manifold, are others different?
sorry I assumed it was the throtle valve/butterfly being talked about.
i have read the control part of manual from cover to cover, and cant find mention of anti judder, what section is it in?
the butterfly i have removed,is prety standard on early cars with egr, just mix's the correct dirty and clean air ratio's, so by removing or disabling egr, you still have an issue if it is left in place, but no reason to not do same mod with ball bearing on it, or remove butterfly flap with two screws.

now, i realy must change the water pump:(

better description below.

The EGRC-solenoid valves A and B, control vacuum pressure acting
on the EGR valve. The EGR control valve will be fully opened,
half-opened or fully closed, as required.
The throttle control solenoid valve controls vacuum pressure acting
on the throttle control valve. Thus, intake air passages are opened
or closed in relation to exhaust gas and intake air. Utilizing the
relationship between exhaust gas pressure and intake air pressure
control, the amount of EGR (exhaust gas recirculated) is regulated
in three approximate measures — large, medium, small.
 
I think Lacroupade was referring to the anti judder flap in the inlet path.
Should snap shut on engine stop then slowly open.

I am indebted :bow Not quite sure why anyone would think I'd recommend removing a throttle butterfly? LOL
 
here is a picture of my outlet pipe on fuel pump, the bolt in the end of the banjo, when removed had spring, ball and mini filter.
looks like it was there from new, cant work out why they put in in outlet, mistake in spain?

but re throttle flap, will make a huge and positive differance, if you have already done egr mod, like tunes and breathing:thumbs
 

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picture of a small amount of the oily goo removed from inlet manifold
 

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picture of a small amount of the oily goo removed from inlet manifold

bloody norah.....when you say inlet manifold, you mean engine side of intercooler? did you get anything in the i/c itself dead I read somewhere else?:eek:
 
yes engine side of intercooler, remove the throttle body, and you can look in to see if you have the black death.

intercooler was oily, but they tend to be, the gunge is very common on renault dci and dti engines, it forms where the oil vapour and soot from egr meet.
oil vapor itself isnt so bad, as it will lubricate the top end, but mixed with the exhaust gas is very bad.
i can not believe how much better engine now is.
i dont suppose they are all like it, mine before i got it, had only done 1000 odd miles a year, i have put 6k on it in two months!
the whole egr thing is, in my opinion bad, why intercool, then whack hot gas in? the newer ones cool the exhaust gas, and try and seperate soot, but still have problems.

just done water pump, not convinced fan is working properly, how hard should it be to stop it?
i read somewhere on here about a carrot test?
 
[/quote]just done water pump, not convinced fan is working properly, how hard should it be to stop it?
i read somewhere on here about a carrot test?[/quote]
Interesting test....
I take you mean it should NOT chop the carrot up before stopping?
 
.

hi badger just too confirm the butterfly we are talking about is on the left hand side of the intercooler as you look at the engine standing in front of te truck looking down at the engine ?

have you got any pics of your one ?

how did you dismantle it to get the butterfly out and what do you do with the vaccum hose going to the butterfly actuator ?

again regarding the hesitation just popped out and down to the shops and it feels like when at cruising speed of 35-45 mph in 4th gear it feels like i ive put it in to higher gear for the speed.

thus getting a funny stuttering feeling no missing or smoke though

very strange
 
yep, that right.
take off intercooler, then 4 bolts to remove throttle body, or with intercooler off move flap in throttle body to closed, it is on a spring return, you will see two machine screws in it, remove these and the circular disk slides out so even with ecu doing its bit with vacume, clean air intake is not affected.
But you must stop egr from opening, with egr still active, removing throttle butterfly will make matters worse, the two work together, so must be disabled together, the ball bearing mod to egr is fine, as long as egr is completely shut, if wedge half open will still be putting exhaust gas in inlet.
Not doing Throttle body will not do any excess harm, wont release best from engine, but doing throttle body and not egr will create odd air mass and pressures, vortex’s in inlet will mess badly with running.

have you tried cleaning your MAF?
I still feel this is at fault, but as others have pointed out, and I have taken on board, you can with diagnostic, check output of maf on journey.
 
Carefully !
It is Hitachi?
Remove to cross head screws and remove from air inlet pipe, on outlet of airfilter.
The unit looks like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-Primer...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item33620c7689

When removed you will see a tube like unit underneath, in this you will see two “things” these are the sensors, these need carefully cleaning, cant emphasize how carefully enough!
Small cotton bud with contact cleaner, I use something for work called flu clean, from rs components, or electrical solvent.
Be gentle.
I noticed with mine the following, when dirty tickover did not drop when I came to a complete stop, when cleaned, engine would tickover at about 900rpm whilst coming to a halt, but when completely stationary would drop down to about 750rpm, not sure if anyone else has noticed this?
 
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Mine is an hitachi maf and I clean it every six months. Unplug the wire, take out the two screws and gently pull out the sensor. Hold it up to the light and you will see the two filaments these should be shiny but the may look sooty. I spray in switch cleaner or video head cleaner. If they are sooty I gently wipe them with a cotton bud with cleaner on it.

The job takes six minutes, regards bri

if you were closer to me I have a spare maf you could have tried.
 
I noticed with mine the following, when dirty tickover did not drop when I came to a complete stop, when cleaned, engine would tickover at about 900rpm whilst coming to a halt, but when completely stationary would drop down to about 750rpm, not sure if anyone else has noticed this?

worth checking the idle switch on the throttle assembly too, this can cause "funny's" if not correct when supposed to be in idle mode.
 
I think it's the micro switch on the throttle pedal assy. by your loud foot:sly
It gets full of mud , jellie babies and coffeee cups on mine:lol
 

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