SUBs to fit ;)

[exosteve]

I will keep a very good eye on me goosgogs mate

mmm bit of crumble n custard spring to mind:naughty

 

[makeitfit]

Top day at the office today and got all the fibreglass finished

Then a chunk of 3mm alu will become the speaker mount panel. There was no way I could use MDF in this application as the body panels are all wierd shapes etc. So I've made an executive decision to rivet and bond with tigerseal. That'll be persuadable with Mr Hammer to make contact all round
Tigerseal all round it is then :sly

Then some big old rivets and pull the panel in

A few points didn't actually make full contact so there's more goo in those places , but once cured, it ain't going nowhere :thumbs

Another view of the whole thing in place and speaker fitted

Other side next :naughty

 

[Sweety]

Looking good Pete:thumb2 if you have any MDF you could make a speaker for the sub to mount onto

 

[makeitfit]

Looking good Pete:thumb2 if you have any MDF you could make a speaker for the sub to mount onto

eh ?

 

[exosteve]

eh ?

the metal plate may vibrate im thinking sweety means:nenau

 

[makeitfit]

the metal plate may vibrate im thinking sweety means:nenau

It's a snag I'll have to cope with. There's no room to get a bit of MDF there though, the plastic trim panel sits within a few mm of the metal work.
I'm keeping the trim
The plate is fixed and bonded with Tigerseal, it's the stuff cars are glued together with and also glues windscreens in. The rivets are basically only doing any work while the goo cures
I'm not building a show car , ear bleeding db level monsta :lol
We'll see I guess, but there's such a small amount of space here, the speaker coil is less than 5mm off the outer body skin. When I first mounted the speaker it could pull the body panel in with it's shear magnetism :lol
I've got to get some of that rubber mat stuff to put between them though.
Watch this space :sly

 

[Sweety]

Sorry was tired when I wrote it Pete:doh what I meant to say was if you can fit a MDF speaker ring if you can as it would help stiffen up the front panel. I know space is very tight for you on this build but if there is any flex in the front panel you could bond some wood or metal strips to the inside of the front panel to reduce/stop the flex. If you have any self adhesive lead flashing kicking about you could stick it to the inside on the enclosure as it'll help mass load the panels & reduce any rattling. If you haven't yet remember to turn the amp the right way up & change your power feed & ground wires to 8AWG cable:thumb2

 

[makeitfit]

Ah ha yes gotcha, I can put a ply speaker mount ring between ALU and body, just. MDF would be pointless in this situation as what would be left would be as good as a chocolate ashtray. Yeh the amp will be having a make over too

 

[makeitfit]

I'm also on the hunt for an economical sub amp :naughty

 

[makeitfit]

A quick follow up on this as I can't remember where my amp build is :lol
Sweety advised I was in for trouble with my power amp upside down. Sooooo as part of my seat rebuild going on , it made sense to sort the amp position now.
The idea is simply to have some space under the amp to keep out of any water during deep crossings etc
This is roughly where it is, n/s seat base.

I drilled four holes to coincide with the amp mount holes. Fitted some 100mm M6 bolts and a lock nut to the floor.

Then cut some old overflow pipe to size reqd to make the amp level. Each leg is a bit different as the floor is ribbed for extra pleasure
Then ontop of the o/f pipe a big washer then the amp. Not my best pic but you get the drift I hope

Also I'd like to know where to get some new supply and earth cables for the amp. I need bigger/thicker but what gauge please ? Not welding cable :lol

 

[SNH]

Welding cable is ideal 50mm as it's still flexible but if it's not an option look for a 4 gauge wiring kit as that should be plenty.
As it is now it looks like a fire hazard so don't hang about :thumb2

Just remember the cheaper the kit the crapper the wire, tends to be more plastic coating than actual wire :lol

 

[makeitfit]

Welding cable is ideal 50mm as it's still flexible but if it's not an option look for a 4 gauge wiring kit as that should be plenty.
As it is now it looks like a fire hazard so don't hang about :thumb2

Just remember the cheaper the kit the crapper the wire, tends to be more plastic coating than actual wire :lol

Fire hazard It ran for a year or so before the truck got laid up. I understand the big wire thing , a bit, but when you look inside the amp , the wire's smaller than I've used.
The gauge of wire I've used on it is rated higher than the amp's rating :nenau
Anyway, in the interests of doing the job right I'll go for 4 gauge .
By the way what does it all mean ? 50mm to me is about 2" :lol:lol
4gauge is that the same as screw size gauges ?
I've been told before but wasn't doing the job then and didn't save the answer :augie

 

[Sweety]

4 gauge cable is 20mm2 which will be more than enough for your needs I would think mate but if you don't have the big glass fuse I would just go for an amp wiring kit like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T1-AUDIO-...160?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a8855ac18 but there are loads on the market this is just an eg:augie if you do have the big fuse which needs to be fitted 30cm/12" from the battery live then you could just go for the wire again just eg's but audio power cable http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-AWG-Gau...886?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a14e9acd6

 

[makeitfit]

That's the way :thumb2 Cheers Sweety
By the way can you suggest a bargain basement good sub amp lol

 

[Sweety]

That's the way :thumb2 Cheers Sweety
By the way can you suggest a bargain basement good sub amp lol

JBL amps are very good & not badly priced, got a kicker amp in my T2 & like it & again it was a good price, now if your happy with S/H keep looking on ebay as some times JBL, Alpine, Kenwood come up dirt cheap. If it's to be moved on in time to the Trol or the camper then I would look for an amp that will power what ever sub or set of speakers you think you might use in time more than what you have now

 

[terrano bob]

makeitfit your post are brilliant and a joy to read :thumbs

 

[makeitfit]

S/H is fine and it'll be staying in the truck :thumb2
Done the sub in the camper and by the time the trol gets done it'll be full on monsta :sly
Cheers Bob I tippy type away while the wife makes me lists of things to do on the house :lol

 

[terrano bob]

S/H is fine and it'll be staying in the truck :thumb2
Done the sub in the camper and by the time the trol gets done it'll be full on monsta :sly
Cheers Bob I tippy type away while the wife makes me lists of things to do on the house :lol

:lol :thumbs

 

[SNH]

50mm is 0 gauge which would be a bit overkill tbh.
4 gauge will be fine. I'm suprised those wires haven't melted already lol.

Jbl are good and well priced especially 2nd hand. I've just picked up another alpine amp to power my front speakers and that cost £50

 

[Sweety]

50mm is 0 gauge which would be a bit overkill tbh.
4 gauge will be fine. I'm suprised those wires haven't melted already lol.

O gauge will be enough to supply the power to a splitter & the 4 gauge to both your amps Simon:thumb2 Raised the concern about the wire size before but somehow it has managed to cope Once you fit the new cable Pete the amp will get all the power it needs & you might find your system louder:thumbs I'm only using 8 gauge to run my 250w RMS amp & the cable has never got warm let alone hot but if I make the changes I would like to do i'm going to need 0 gauge:augie