Studs Sheared..Help!!

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richtheracer

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2009
Messages
251
Two of the wheel studs on front drivers side hub have sheared!! Mrs has been using mav and reported noise yesterday when steering so I checked today and was amazed that 1. the wheel hadnt gone missing and 2. Thank god I checked before she used it to take my daughter to college today!!! All of the other 4 nuts are damaged to the point where they are nearly non existant in the thread department. My question is can studs be replaced or is it new hub needed? also is it a job an amateur like me could carry out as looking in downloads it looks a bit scary!! with the bad weather due to hit and serious lack of funds think I might be in s*@t street.
Cheers Rich..
 
Don't panic Mr mannerin', yes you can just put new studs in.
The safest method is to take the hub off to do it though.
With the hub off you select your favourite hitting stick and bash out the offending studs. I used an old socket to brace the hub to the floor so all the effort goes into the stud removal.
Get some new ones from your motor factors and reverse the procedure.
NOTE once in place you'll need to tighten the nuts on the wheels daily to make sure they're in properly.
Alternative method is to borrow a hydraulic press and squeeze the buggers in :thumbs
Good luck.
 
Two of the wheel studs on front drivers side hub have sheared!! Mrs has been using mav and reported noise yesterday when steering so I checked today and was amazed that 1. the wheel hadnt gone missing and 2. Thank god I checked before she used it to take my daughter to college today!!! All of the other 4 nuts are damaged to the point where they are nearly non existant in the thread department. My question is can studs be replaced or is it new hub needed? also is it a job an amateur like me could carry out as looking in downloads it looks a bit scary!! with the bad weather due to hit and serious lack of funds think I might be in s*@t street.
Cheers Rich..
Got new studs for mine from the local Nissan dealer... about £1.20 each.
Got to be one of the few parts from a Nissan dealer that's affordable!
 
Thanks for the replies , seen the walkthrough of hub removal and to be honest it scares me with the bearings clips and rings etc, ok at doing brakes and bits and pieces but im thinking this is a bit too complicated for me to try? am releived that new studs can be purchased though. Thanks Again Rich..
 
Thanks for the replies , seen the walkthrough of hub removal and to be honest it scares me with the bearings clips and rings etc, ok at doing brakes and bits and pieces but im thinking this is a bit too complicated for me to try? am releived that new studs can be purchased though. Thanks Again Rich..

The workshop manual explains everything very well, I changed my front discs a few years back, never done the mav before, it looked horrendous, but follow the proceedure and it was quite easy.
The locking ring on the wheel bearing is a beautiful piece of precision engineering.
You will need a 6mm AF allen key. 1/2 " drive to torque up the 6 auto hub nuts.
The garage sheared one of mine years ago when they serviced the bearings.
That's why I do the jobs myself.

Where abouts are you in the West Midlands?

Best regards, Rustic
 
Hi Rustic, Am in Coventry. The walkthrough is great but when I see bearings and locking rings etc it makes me a bit panicky!! what if its put back together incorrectly etc..lol
Cheers Rich..
 
No need to panic, just print it all out and follow the instructions. Don't bother with an allen key, get yourself a socket with an size 6 allen bit set in it.
 
Don't bother with an allen key, get yourself a socket with an size 6 allen bit set in it.

That's what I meant....
"You will need a 6mm AF allen key. 1/2 " drive" :thumb2

If you're desperate, and can travel to Cannock area, PM me, as long as it's some time during the day (Week days only), I can give you some advice in a warm garage. My Mav goes into the garage with 2" height to spare and I don't have roof bars, so that might be a restriction. ( let tyres down):lol
I have all the tools including a big hammer. :thumb2

It really isn't that bad a job, use a digital camera to photograph each stage of dissassembly, place the parts on sheets of paper and you will know which order they go back.
 
Finally plucked up the courage to take hub and disc off to do studs!! was going great until i removed the hub cap and there is a spring not mentioned in any of the downloads and it popped out with some sort of collar so I couldnt see where it had come from or how it refits!! The rest was fairly simple to withdraw as all you guys have stated it would be but worried now as how to refit..lol
Can anybody enlighten me asap..Cheers Again Rich..
 
the bit that fell out is the brake ring and spring, most likely the bit still in the hub is broke as they should not fall off, I posted some pics a little while ago of how the hub works, Rick
 
Hi Rick, I found the diagram and refitted and also did the brake pads!! Only thing is now the rear wheel cylinder passenger side is leaking, must have been weak and when pistons on front pushed back popped!! How hard a job is this to change?? And also cost!! One thing after another at minute. I know that without this forum I'd be right up shite street!!
Cheers in advance. Rich..
 
Hi Rick, I found the diagram and refitted and also did the brake pads!! Only thing is now the rear wheel cylinder passenger side is leaking, must have been weak and when pistons on front pushed back popped!! How hard a job is this to change?? And also cost!! One thing after another at minute. I know that without this forum I'd be right up shite street!!
Cheers in advance. Rich..

Easy enough, if the brake pipe doesn't barley sugar twist.

Best to change both rear cylinders, as some are different internal diameter pistons.

When the brake drum is off, you can replace the cylinder without disturbing the brake shoes, springs etc.

Use brake cleaner spray to degrease the drums etc.

Cost for each cylinder is approx £15-£20

Good luck.
Best regards,
Rustic
 
Ok so replaced the cylinders today and bled brakes diagonally front pass, rear driver, and vice versa system was full of air, so all good there now. Last problem for a while though is the handbrake as mot is due handbrake is very sloppy as in hardly works always have to leave in gear, I know the adjusters are in hub but which way do they turn and do they lock at all?
Cheers Rich..
 
Adjust them up before you put the hub back on so it only just fits over the shoes. If you've got a lip in the brake drum just grind it off then you'll get nice tight handbrake :thumb2
After that adjust fine tune it with the adjusting nuts under the centre consul. You can just get them from the front with a long socket:cool:
 
Adjust them up before you put the hub back on so it only just fits over the shoes. If you've got a lip in the brake drum just grind it off then you'll get nice tight handbrake :thumb2
After that adjust fine tune it with the adjusting nuts under the centre consul. You can just get them from the front with a long socket:cool:

You need to slacken the nut under the console BEFORE you start adjusting the adjusters in the rear hubs.

When both Hubs are ok, adjust the nut under the handbrake.

In the past I have always removed the centre console, and the connectors from the window switches, but thanks to this club, you can just get a 3/8" long reach 10mm AF socket with an extension, underneath below the handbrake lever as you push the soft plastic cover aside. This saves 20-30 minutes.

Good luck.
Rustic
 
You need to slacken the nut under the console BEFORE you start adjusting the adjusters in the rear hubs.

When both Hubs are ok, adjust the nut under the handbrake.

Good point, I knew that :augie :lol :thumbs
 
Handbrake and shoes adjusted, used it all day today and everything seems fine again..thank god!! I hate my mrs using my van so Mav now back on road she dont have too. MOT in 2 weeks so fingers crossed. Thanks for everyones input Rich..
 
Handbrake and shoes adjusted, used it all day today and everything seems fine again..thank god!! I hate my mrs using my van so Mav now back on road she dont have too. MOT in 2 weeks so fingers crossed. Thanks for everyones input Rich..

Most of the members of this site use this method, since the auto adjusters just don't self adjust.

Once learnt and done a couple of weeks before MOT solves the issue.
Mine holds my mav and a 2 tonne boat on a steep slip way on it's own.:thumb2
 
Why oh why do I open my mouth and say "all problems sorted!!" Windscreen wipers wont turn off!! any ideas? went to 4x4 scrappy and got another wiper stalk and it does the same so not the stalk, it never did this before but it had been sitting for 4 weeks whilst I plucked up the courage to strip hub!! The only thing it may be that I can think of is the rear washer motor has stopped working and seems when you use the spray they just wont turn off, even if its in the off position.
 

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