Stuck Sump Plug

[HantsHog]

Just got myself ready to do an oil change and I can't shift the sump plug. I'm working with the Terrano on the ground from the front but I can't get decent leverage. Any ideas on how to shift this on the ground?

I'm pretty certain that I've identified the sump plug in the pic.

 

[Banshee]

Just got myself ready to do an oil change and I can't shift the sump plug. I'm working with the Terrano on the ground from the front but I can't get decent leverage. Any ideas on how to shift this on the ground?

I'm pretty certain that I've identified the sump plug in the pic.

Butane Lamp, Breaker Bar, replace plug and copper washer, looks like it's going to round any minute

 

[HantsHog]

Well, after this I'll try the vacuum method as asked in my other thread ...

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26798

I'll pick one of these up this afternoon ...

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cftp12-12v-oil-and-diesel-pump/

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

You have the right bit, but sometimes they are silly tight... On my last oil change on my wifes T2, the first I had done on it, it was so tight, in the end I had to stick it up on ramps, use a 2" breaker bar, to loosen it, even then I was lifting off the floor pulling down on the bar, then drop the car back onto the floor before I drained it.

As Banshee says, the washer was totalled, so I had to get a new one, before I could fill it back up. Luckily the plug was not damaged, so I could re-used that.

 

[quixote]

You could play a gas torch on it for a couple of minutes? It doesn't need to get red hot though. Just play the flame on the sump directly around the plug and that should be enough to let you free it off :thumb2

 

[panelbeater]

hammer gun will do it,if you have one.

 

[micktheshed]

When you finally get the plug out fit a new one (or even a magnetic one LOL) but use a bonded type washer as this will only need nipping-up to give a reliable seal. The washer will also last indefinitely.

 

[Banshee]

(or even a magnetic one LOL)

Oh no not this one again

 

[jims-terrano]

How about taking the truck out for a good run around to get heat into it? Then before it cools just crack the tightness off and leave it to cool and settle before going any further.

 

[HantsHog]

I'm jinxed! I've bought the diesel/oil pump to drain from the dipstick tube and after 15 minutes all I had was bubbles coming up the inlet pipe and 1 inch of spatter at outlet; in effect nothing has come out. The inlet pipe is 1.2m long and is pushed in to the hilt. I suspect it's not long enough yet the dipstick is half its length.

I think I'll try Lazy-Ferret's approach and get it up on ramps after I've bought a replacement sump plug and washer.

Can anyone confirm the exact plug and washer size as I'm getting different sizes from different outlets!

 

[HantsHog]

You have the right bit, but sometimes they are silly tight... On my last oil change on my wifes T2, the first I had done on it, it was so tight, in the end I had to stick it up on ramps, use a 2" breaker bar, to loosen it, even then I was lifting off the floor pulling down on the bar, then drop the car back onto the floor before I drained it.

As Banshee says, the washer was totalled, so I had to get a new one, before I could fill it back up. Luckily the plug was not damaged, so I could re-used that.

Is this a crow bar or one of those chunky metal rods with a point? I've got several of those! How do you use the breaker bar exactly?

 

[solarman216]

I'm jinxed! I've bought the diesel/oil pump to drain from the dipstick tube and after 15 minutes all I had was bubbles coming up the inlet pipe and 1 inch of spatter at outlet; in effect nothing has come out. The inlet pipe is 1.2m long and is pushed in to the hilt. I suspect it's not long enough yet the dipstick is half its length.

I think I'll try Lazy-Ferret's approach and get it up on ramps after I've bought a replacement sump plug and washer.

Can anyone confirm the exact plug and washer size as I'm getting different sizes from different outlets!

you only need to put it in about 3 inches longer than the dipstick, if you push it in loads too far it will hit the bottom of the sump and curl bach out above the oil, a tip is to insert a length of wire into it to keep it straight as it will have been coiled up and will tend to coil again once out of the bottom of the dip tube, Oh and sump plugs tend to get overtightened, just use a good fitting socket and knuckle bar, Rick

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Is this a crow bar or one of those chunky metal rods with a point? I've got several of those! How do you use the breaker bar exactly?

My definition of a breaker bar is a 2 foot long bar with a 1/2" socket drive on the end, which can pivot from one side to the other. Basically a very long socket wrench that allows you a lot more leverage than the ones that come with the socket set.

Like this but even longer

 

[HantsHog]

My definition of a breaker bar is a 2 foot long bar with a 1/2" socket drive on the end, which can pivot from one side to the other. Basically a very long socket wrench that allows you a lot more leverage than the ones that come with the socket set.

Like this but even longer

Damn, just bought a 200 piece socket set thinking it had everything I would ever need! I could try a length of pipe over the socket handle to give it a bit more leverage.

Thanks

 

[HantsHog]

you only need to put it in about 3 inches longer than the dipstick, if you push it in loads too far it will hit the bottom of the sump and curl bach out above the oil, a tip is to insert a length of wire into it to keep it straight as it will have been coiled up and will tend to coil again once out of the bottom of the dip tube, Oh and sump plugs tend to get overtightened, just use a good fitting socket and knuckle bar, Rick

I'll try again with this approach. Just need to find some suitable wire.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Damn, just bought a 200 piece socket set thinking it had everything I would ever need! I could try a length of pipe over the socket handle to give it a bit more leverage.

Thanks

The Socket ratchet can give out if you extend it, and put too much force on it, so not a good idea to get to vigorous. The non-ratchet "T" bar would be better, but both of mine are bent from doing that before I got the Breaker bar. In fact that is exactly why I got the breaker bar, as I couldn't get the tow bar bolts undone, and bent the T bar badly by slipping the trolley jack handle over it.

The other thing is, because of the knuckle on the breaker bar, it allows you to get the socket square on the bolt, and stay there, so you can get a good pull.

The other thing you might want to invest in, is a set of impact sockets, as these only have 6 flats on the inside, so fit better over the bolt heat, and reduce the chances of rounding the bolt or slipping off.

 

[glanrichbex]

This is how I get ceased stainless drain screws out of alloy castings without any damage to the casting.... just get the arc welder out and weld a nut to it. The heat alone from doing that will free it up and a normal spanner will take it out no problem.

 

[micken]

Can anyone confirm the exact plug and washer size as I'm getting different sizes from different outlets!

Any answers to this please? 10mm copper washer?

Cheers,

Mick

 

[solarman216]

I'll try again with this approach. Just need to find some suitable wire.

coat hangers come to mind, I use welding wire it just wants to be stiff enough to hold the tube straight but not too thick to impede the flow too much, Rick

 

[solarman216]

Any answers to this please? 10mm copper washer?

Cheers,

Mick

do not bother PTFE tape is just as good, Rick