Strip and rebuild 2.8 IP

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solarman216

Off road maniac
Club Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
17,416
Thought I would start a new thread for this as my brand spanking new distributor head arrived today, I was going to go to Piccadilly Wood on Sunday but seems I did some damage last time out and the NSF CVJ ball cage has broken up shedding all the balls into the swivel housing, which caused some steering issues, removed all the loose bits today so safe on the road again and CVJ ordered but doubt it will arrive in time and a bit loath to go with only 3 wheel drive, anyway this is the pump part which might or might not get fitted this W/E
 

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Mmmmm just looked it up, over 40 years since I last rebuilt a pump, looks like a bit of a challenge after reading all the details, things have changed somewhat, Rick
 
Removed the pump today, here it is ready for working on
 

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The first thing I did was to remove the distributor head, I must emphasise this is the wrong way to remove it, but I needed to know if the new one was the correct one before I stripped the whole pump, and also to establish it's condition
 

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Now the plungers, left is the original, right is the new, instantly you can see there is a groove on the original not present on the new, as this is the inlet end of the plunger when the slot lines up with the inlet hole the only purpose of this groove is to extend the inlet period however this will also be responsible for more leakage past the plunger, I suspect when I examine the two bores that there will be differences between the two, but more importantly on examining the plunger in a good light with a glass I can see it has scratches which render it useless in diesel terms, so I have found the culprit straight away, but will have to continue with the strip and rebuild on two counts, 1 it will be very difficult to try and assemble the new head with any certainty that all the bits are located correctly as is, 2 the plunger problem will not sort my varying idle speed sometimes going so low that turning the steering wheel stalls the motor and other times it revs at 1100, so annoying, Rick
 

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Striped it all down washed and flushed, found no wear at all, no broken parts but found some discrepancies on control plate and associated parts re settings, so will address these tomorrow, sorry not to much in the way of pics as hands constantly in fuel oil was not too good for the Nikon, in this one can be seen many of the internals but the drive shaft and governor are already back in the body, I was confused on one aspect in that I could not figure out how they drilled the holes in the distributor body, a while ago when looking at the 2.7 pump I stripped I decided that the centre part must press out but on the 6 ton press I had at the time it was solid would not move, but today I stuck it on the newly made 50 ton jobbie and hey presto with a loud bang it moved so another question answered, it is the middle one of the three top left
 

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This is the drive shaft with governor above, behind the gear is the vane type low pressure pump, the shaft seal on examination after I removed it was so hard it cracked when I pressed it so good job I had a replacement, more tomorrow, Rick
 

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Striped it all down washed and flushed, found no wear at all, no broken parts but found some discrepancies on control plate and associated parts re settings, so will address these tomorrow, sorry not to much in the way of pics as hands constantly in fuel oil was not too good for the Nikon, in this one can be seen many of the internals but the drive shaft and governor are already back in the body, I was confused on one aspect in that I could not figure out how they drilled the holes in the distributor body, a while ago when looking at the 2.7 pump I stripped I decided that the centre part must press out but on the 6 ton press I had at the time it was solid would not move, but today I stuck it on the newly made 50 ton jobbie and hey presto with a loud bang it moved so another question answered, it is the middle one of the three top left

Nice work Rick :bow

That picture fills me with dread :eek:

I hope it all goes back together OK and works for you :thumb2
 
The thing that gave me greatest problem is that they use 3 sided anti tamper bolts that are tight, on top of that they are recessed into the ali housing, eventually I found a 3/8 drive 13mm socket to be the answer, after hammering it on they came out a treat, once out stuck them on the grinder to make them fit the socket better, job sorted, the control lever assembly is a work of art, no less than 6 working parts on 2 fulcrums and 3 springs on just this one part that directly controls the control sleeve, this is the bit that determines how much fuel goes into the engine, so it is reading throttle position, rpm and controlling the sleeve with minute accuracy, I will try and take a pic or 2 tomorrow, very clever, Rick
 
The thing that gave me greatest problem is that they use 3 sided anti tamper bolts that are tight, on top of that they are recessed into the ali housing, eventually I found a 3/8 drive 13mm socket to be the answer, after hammering it on they came out a treat, once out stuck them on the grinder to make them fit the socket better, job sorted, the control lever assembly is a work of art, no less than 6 working parts on 2 fulcrums and 3 springs on just this one part that directly controls the control sleeve, this is the bit that determines how much fuel goes into the engine, so it is reading throttle position, rpm and controlling the sleeve with minute accuracy, I will try and take a pic or 2 tomorrow, very clever, Rick

Look forward to the pics and run down of the inner workings :thumb2
 
Got a heavy day Sunday as have to be back on the road Monday so decided to take some pics now as I rarely retire before 2am.

This is the control assembly including the throttle control springs and shaft that is on the left, to the right are two springs the inner one is the idle spring these are all extra to the 3 on the assembly
 

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Here is the interesting bit, the ball at the bottom controls the "control sleeve" this regulates how much fuel is injected at any given time, it has a movement of approximately 2mm from no fuel to full fuel all controlled by this assembly, just above the ball but below the pivot the two springs housed in the distributor housing make contact, I am surprised that after 160k no marks are to be seen, I will try and take pics but time is limited and there is a lot to do, Rick
 

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great info rick,but those who designed it in the first place am surprised the brain fits in the head.so thats where the low pressure pump is,often wondered.
 
Impressive!!! :eek: :eek:

I don't think I'll be opening mine any time soon, that will be going off to a specialist, or depending on how this goes........ Rick :lol :D :thumb2
 
Many interruptions today so not good, got a fuel leak from a most difficult part to get to on with the pump on the motor also got drenched, so going to have a few scotches, Rick
 
Well a bit of a saga, I will start with some pics of the rebuild, this is the roller ring
 

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Here is the advance piston sits at the bottom of the pump
 

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