Steering modification - courtesy of makeitfit!

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Evening ☺ Sorry to hear this new version hasn't worked. Typically I'm working away from home and just got to interweaving now. This mod does work on my truck BUT with smaller rose joints. I upped the size on this kit trying to be clever. I thought there would have been enough movement with the misalignment washers but patently not. Sorry Alex this is the first mod not tried out first on my truck. I'll get the original size rose joints and associated TCA sorted on Monday when I get home.
 
makeitfit said:
Evening ☺ Sorry to hear this new version hasn't worked. Typically I'm working away from home and just got to interweaving now. This mod does work on my truck BUT with smaller rose joints. I upped the size on this kit trying to be clever. I thought there would have been enough movement with the misalignment washers but patently not. Sorry Alex this is the first mod not tried out first on my truck. I'll get the original size rose joints and associated TCA sorted on Monday when I get home.
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Cheers Mr Makeitfit :thumb2
 
For those of us on here who are not fully conversant with suspension terminology, could someone please explain exactly what you mean by "rose jointed"?

:nenau
 
Bump

Progress report please, I need to do this mod imminently followed by steering damper :naughty
 
Need x2 of these and a set of spacers for the steering box please Pete as and when you see this :thumb2

FB_IMG_1453745962972_zpsus4bkukk.jpg
 
Id love a couple of them modified idler arms please as gonna mod my drag link
 
makeitfit said:
Which version did you fit in the end Rick ?
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the first lot you sent as on testing they had a little more movement than the second ones but I had put the stand off washers in the lathe and eased them a little, then we welded plates onto the hollow top wish bones to provide droop bump stops, could not lower his torsion bars as tyres rubbed already at times, but the other issue we found was the tie rod, drop arm to idler, went on a treat straight ahead, but at or near full lock no way would the tie rod go onto the idler let alone get the bolt in such was the twist, now this tie bar was never designed to take torsional twist as the ends are just pressed on so I can see this working loose over time, unfortunately I do not have a working set up here now to check out what is wrong, Rick
 
Ah so do you think the drag link ends are not aligned to each other ? I've noticed that before and rejected those drag links . Didn't notice this one being out though. That said it was such a rush it's not impossible I missed it :eek:
 
I think it could be to do with the idler box being reversed and then stood off the chassis with spacers, the pivot point of the idler is now different so the idler at straight ahead is not straight if you see what I mean, but as said have no way of checking that out now, Rick
 
makeitfit said:
Ah so do you think the drag link ends are not aligned to each other ? I've noticed that before and rejected those drag links . Didn't notice this one being out though. That said it was such a rush it's not impossible I missed it :eek:
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could be, not something I looked at, but would have thought that would have shown up at the straight ahead, no it seems the two drop arms do not stay parallel, may be a better option would be a box from a LHD motor, Rick
 
Started off this project years ago with the idea of LHD box but they were silly money from Johnny foreigner :eek: So instead made up some spacers for std box. Assuming chassis rails are not bent there should be the same end result ?
 
makeitfit said:
Started off this project years ago with the idea of LHD box but they were silly money from Johnny foreigner :eek: So instead made up some spacers for std box. Assuming chassis rails are not bent there should be the same end result ?
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not quite Pete, as the pivot point of the idler is now spacer thickness to the nearside and link arm being the same length as before the idler arm will be N degrees to the off side at straight ahead, and as it is at an angle on the chassis it will move to more of an angle as it turns so imparting twist on the link arm, Rick
 
so a work round, keep the Rose at the box end (this will eliminate unwanted movement), but keep the ball joint at the idler end and just beef up the existing idler, this will keep the two pivot points as original and as it is the weak ball joint at the box end that is the normal problem this should sort it, Rick
 
Just been out and measured the centre of the arms on the bottom of the pas box and the uprated pas idler arm and they are both an equal 153 mm from the point I measured from on the chassis.
I've got the pas box and Draglink mod but kept the original ball jointed tie rods and it's been used and abused with no issues.
My tie bars only last about 6 months the same as my upper ball joints buts that's just a fact of life running a modded truck.
 
solarman216 said:
not quite Pete, as the pivot point of the idler is now spacer thickness to the nearside and link arm being the same length as before the idler arm will be N degrees to the off side at straight ahead, and as it is at an angle on the chassis it will move to more of an angle as it turns so imparting twist on the link arm, Rick
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I'm trying to envisage what you say Rick as not in front of the truck just now. Aren't both steering boxes at an angle though ? The same angle , and I thought both would rotate in the same plane , regardless of spacer. Same drag link length etc so where is the twist coming from ?
Learning all the time but being a bit slow on this one sorry :bow
 
makeitfit said:
I'm trying to envisage what you say Rick as not in front of the truck just now. Aren't both steering boxes at an angle though ? The same angle , and I thought both would rotate in the same plane , regardless of spacer. Same drag link length etc so where is the twist coming from ?
Learning all the time but being a bit slow on this one sorry :bow
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OK as I see it in my minds eye, as the box mod idler is spaced from the chassis the pivot point is further to the nearside thus for the same length drag link the idler drop arm will have to be pivoted to the OS in order for the drag link to couple so now you have steering box straight ahead but idler is to the off side,. due to the angle that the box and idler sit on the chassis now the two are out of kilter if you see what I mean, the idler is already dropping away or lifting up (cannot remember which) whereas the box is not, does that make sense, Rick
 
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