sorted! now who want's to guess what was wrong?

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Ah that old thing :doh that was so obvious I just thought it was a trick :lol
Well done :thumb2
 
Sorry do not go with that the thread does not go long enough to get no clutch, think you been had, Rick

yes it does! trust me!

the fork end screws down & it supposed to be locked in place with the locking nut! mine had ran down since march resulting in the biting point being on the floor due to the fork being wound down to the end of the tread at the master cylinder end. go out & try it honestly no sure if any others are like this but thw 2.7td certainly is
 
So that's it, no more guessing games...now what can we do???:augie
 
Wow, that would have taken some spotting... I can't say as I even looked at that bit when I was doing my clutch peddle, so not sure if there even is an adjuster there or not.

It makes sense though, as when I changed the slave, I was surprised there was no adjustment at that end, and it did briefly cross my mind that Nissan did a great job in the design, since it was exactly right first time, no messing.:lol
 
just as I thought Mel, the adjuster does not go far enough to be able to get no pedal at all, if you check out the pic below you will see the adjuster at its short limit and there is still over half of the pedal travel available, the mounting bolts are long to enable spacers equal to the thickness of the sound proofing, and I have been generous with the position of the master cylinder as the rubber boot is a little nearer to the bracket when in the car, incidentally I cannot see the knurling on your shaft, it is present on all 4 of my cars including one TDi, which makes me think if that was the cause of your no pedal then you may have a after market or incorrect master cylinder, Rick
 

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just as I thought Mel, the adjuster does not go far enough to be able to get no pedal at all, if you check out the pic below you will see the adjuster at its short limit and there is still over half of the pedal travel available, the mounting bolts are long to enable spacers equal to the thickness of the sound proofing, and I have been generous with the position of the master cylinder as the rubber boot is a little nearer to the bracket when in the car, incidentally I cannot see the knurling on your shaft, it is present on all 4 of my cars including one TDi, which makes me think if that was the cause of your no pedal then you may have a after market or incorrect master cylinder, Rick

i still had about 2"from the floor but biting point was on floor, this is also the adjuster for the biting point as i have now got mine from the floor as it was to the normal position. its the only thing we done to the truck & it was instantly sorted. tore off no bother down farm lane, up & down gears including reverse. couldn't even get into 1st or reverse before without turning the blooming truck off & restarting it.

was just to make folk aware that if they do fit a new mater cylinder to make sure the locking nut IS doing its job by locking the fork that attachs to the pedal, it took 8ths for mine to wind its way down.
 
OK then we have to put it down to other wear issues and minor differences between motors, Rick
 
OK then we have to put it down to other wear issues and minor differences between motors, Rick

defo not wear issues as its the same master cylinder (never changed a thing but the position of the nut & fork), just the locking nut is now holding the fork properly were it should be with the aid of thread lock just to make sure it doesn't do it again :doh :lol
 

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