Slippy Clutch

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Banshee

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So my clutch is getting worse and worse, slipping through all gears now but on performing Rick's 5th gear test it behaves as a working clutch should so Rick advised that I get a new master cylinder pipe first

I'd rather throw 14 quid at it first that nearly £300!!! Just need to get it fitted now, any special tools required? Rick said these have a habit of collapsing inside

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Ok, by the looks of, you've bought the same as I did, without the junction box, (this is the slave hose no?)

It will screw on and fit but as the junction box is bolted to the truck you will need to cable tie the new hose up to stop the engine rattling the metal pipes as we suspected this would cause a fracture over a long period of time.

So yes, will screw straight on and try and secure it where the original box lived :thumb2
 
Ok, by the looks of, you've bought the same as I did, without the junction box, (this is the slave hose no?)

It will screw on and fit but as the junction box is bolted to the truck you will need to cable tie the new hose up to stop the engine rattling the metal pipes as we suspected this would cause a fracture over a long period of time.

So yes, will screw straight on and try and secure it where the original box lived :thumb2
I don't really get this still mate :S I suppose it will become apparent when I'm in the engine bay

I just asked for clutch hose as Rick said to, they took my Reg and got me that
 
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I don't really get this still mate :S I suppose it will become apparent when I'm in the engine bay

I just asked for clutch hose as Rick said to, they took my Reg and got me that

Yeah, this is underneath the drivers door pretty much, you will see an "arm off the gearbox" this hose comes off that arm. It's just a plug and play hose.

Originally you have a 3 way box, which includes the silly damper pipe, this hose does away with that box meaning you don't need to block it up ect just bypass it instead. :thumb2 all you need to do is secure it to the original box location with a clip or tie, jubilee is better. :thumb2
 
Yeah, this is underneath the drivers door pretty much, you will see an "arm off the gearbox" this hose comes off that arm. It's just a plug and play hose.

Originally you have a 3 way box, which includes the silly damper pipe, this hose does away with that box meaning you don't need to block it up ect just bypass it instead. :thumb2 all you need to do is secure it to the original box location with a clip or tie, jubilee is better. :thumb2
I think my damper pipe has already been blocked off, I'll work it out when I'm under there, if I get stuck I'll call you or whack some pics up
 
Here we go dude, excuse the fluid, this was just fitted in the picture.

On the right you can see the bolt blocking the remainder of the damper pipe... :rolleyes:

All we did after this was secure the pipe to stop it shacking about on idle as it would eventually fracture the metal pipes it connects to above :thumb2
 

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Here we go dude, excuse the fluid, this was just fitted in the picture.

On the right you can see the bolt blocking the remainder of the damper pipe... :rolleyes:

All we did after this was secure the pipe to stop it shacking about on idle as it would eventually fracture the metal pipes it connects to above :thumb2

Alex you little gem!!!! Good lad, I'm a lot more confident to do this now
 
Alex you little gem!!!! Good lad, I'm a lot more confident to do this now

I am getting very impressed with most of Alex's posts recently...:nenau
He hasn't had his account hijacked has he?:lol:lol:lol

Seriously, Alex your Uncle Rustic is very proud of you.
:thumb2
:clap:clap:clap
Declaration..
I am no longer under the influence of any pain killers either.:augie

I saw one of Alex's school reports recently...
It said... Alex sets himself a very low standard... and fails to achieve it...:doh
:lol:lol:lol

Well done Alex, some great replies recently.:thumb2
 
Haha I thought it myself :p

Just coincidental that I am able to answer them :lol

I've had so many odds done to my Terrano now I guess there cant be too much left :lol but I am always happy to help where poss, I love it here :D
 
Fitting this tomorrow as I've got the day to myself :thumb2

Replacing looks easy peasy, I'm more worried about the bleed process afterwards.

I presume I'm bleeding from the slave on the bulkhead? Open bleed nipple, press pedal down and hold, re-tighten, loose pedal out slowly, repeat?
 
Fitting this tomorrow as I've got the day to myself :thumb2

Replacing looks easy peasy, I'm more worried about the bleed process afterwards.

I presume I'm bleeding from the slave on the bulkhead? Open bleed nipple, press pedal down and hold, re-tighten, loose pedal out slowly, repeat?

Nooooooooo there is a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, get someone to push the pedal down while you lay under and undo the bleed, hold pedal down tighten bleed then let pedal up, repeat until no air comes out, Rick
 
don't worry about the bleed process. As Rick and Rustic say (I followed Rustics guide and tweaked it a bit).

Very handy having help, but Rustics guide works fine its just a little more moving around haha!

When I did mine, it did take a while, so be patient...:thumbs
 
Nooooooooo there is a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, get someone to push the pedal down while you lay under and undo the bleed, hold pedal down tighten bleed then let pedal up, repeat until no air comes out, Rick

This is how I changed my clutch fluid on my own, so same process should work for bleeding...

See...
http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11341&highlight=bleed+clutch

Wow... that was four years ago...:eek:
probably needs doing again...:augie
where did that time go...:doh:doh

don't worry about the bleed process. As Rick and Rustic say (I followed Rustics guide and tweaked it a bit).

Very handy having help, but Rustics guide works fine its just a little more moving around haha!

When I did mine, it did take a while, so be patient...:thumbs

Cheers guys

I'll be using rustics great guide :thumb2

Rustic, be honest with me though, how many bolts sheared when you removed the tray? :naughty
 
Yeah me and Rick spent quite. While bleeding with both of us, by yourself must be bloody painful :eek:
 
Yeah me and Rick spent quite. While bleeding with both of us, by yourself must be bloody painful :eek:

Shouldn't take too long :nenau

How many bleed cycles did it take before it was done and how did you know when you'd done it, never bled a clutch before, I've done brakes before
 
I think youll find its upwards of 10 cycles or so I think. I used some containers to save the clutch fluid and re used it as it was clean.

I did the top first then the bottom eventually the pedal did what it was supposed to!

As for the under tray, all the front ones sheered on mine and now I have to drill them out...!!!
 
I think youll find its upwards of 10 cycles or so I think. I used some containers to save the clutch fluid and re used it as it was clean.

I did the top first then the bottom eventually the pedal did what it was supposed to!

As for the under tray, all the front ones sheered on mine and now I have to drill them out...!!!

Yup snap on the under tray :lol

Are there any after-market ones we can get like the Disco's?

What clutch fluid do I need? Isn't it just standard DOT4?
 
Rustic, be honest with me though, how many bolts sheared when you removed the tray? :naughty

To be perfectly honest... none, zilch...
But they started to look waisted in the middle, ie the threads had worn, as, at every oil change, I had to remove the lower cover, to empty the old spilt oil out.:doh
But now with care... no spilt oil goes in there now.:thumb2
I replaced the steel bolts with Stainless steel, and coated them in loads of waxoyl.

I can't wait to start redoing the waxoyl, but my shoulder says wait a bit lol...
 

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