Short or Long snorkel?

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AlexD333

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Joined
Jan 1, 2014
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They say its not all about the size :augie

But after a bit of debate ect the family are getting me a snorkel :clap :naughty

Im debating wether I go down banshees route and have a long snork (using the original air intake on front of airbox)

or If I get a shorter snorkel and cut the wing parallel and cut the side of the airbox out (also covering up the original hole of the airbox)

I think perhaps the second idea would be better, just running a tube on the inside of the wing until it meets the snorkel housing, also the air intake hole would be larger than the one at the front of a standard airbox as its more of an oval shape at the front.

Opinions? :nenau
 
Banshee's one in my eyes is easier to fit & takes less mods
 
Banshee's one in my eyes is easier to fit & takes less mods

hmm, the only bit that confuses me was how the hose sits on the front of the airbox. Hose is circular and air intake is oval shaped.
 
The shorter one will give you better air flow BUT you'll loose the extra safety of the Nissan U bend thing. A bit more fiddly for the short one but I reckon it's worth it just so long as you have a working drain flange in your air box. ;)
 
The shorter one will give you better air flow BUT you'll loose the extra safety of the Nissan U bend thing. A bit more fiddly for the short one but I reckon it's worth it just so long as you have a working drain flange in your air box. ;)

As it happens the flange on mine is blocked with muck. Dare I poke it or what? :nenau

Next question is where do I get the cheapest ready made kit snorkels in the land :naughty
 
I think that depends on who you are paying to do it, and what they think...:lol:lol

I think there are 3 things, to take into account, amount of work, cost, and which one you prefer the look of.

Personally, I like the silver and black look of the custom ones, but then I might just be biased....:naughty

As I see it, the shorter one, like the custom ones, will entail a lot more work, and therefore cost, as you need to change the filter to a cone type, and make up a mounting for it, plus modify the filter box, and make up hose mounts on it, etc, etc, where as Banshee's is far more of a plug and play type, utilising the standard parts of the T2 for most of the way, and just needing the specific hose and snorkel, which has got to be a huge "Win" for it, as even you should be able to do that...:lol:augie

Not having seen Banshees close up, and the pictures are hard to make it out, but when you squash a tube into an ellipse, the cross sectional area goes down, so a 3" round pipe is about 7sq inches of area for the air to get through, but squash it flat, to say 3.25 x 2, and that area drops to about 5sq inches. Squash it a bit more, to only 1.5" and it drops to 4sq inches, so a wiggly bit of silicon tube could throttle the engine quite badly, if it gets any kinks, or tight bends in it (Not saying that is what Banshee has done! Before I get jumped on). So you will need to make sure you get the right tube for the job.

The other thing is, the air on the longer one, is having to go round a lot more curves, as it effectively goes past the airbox, turns 180degrees, and then negotiates a chicane before hitting the filter, which I would have though, must have some sort of impact on how much air you can get in, so again, you need to make sure the pipes are big enough all the way through, and not cut any corners on the plumbing.
 
eh ? The cross sectional area does NOT change for a fixed perimeter ! It may restrict good flow though, is that what you meant ?
 
I would go long (f you don't want a 2nd battery) there isn't much room behind the wing. Also means more fixing points along the wing so should in theory be stronger. Although longer may mean you hit it more?
 
I went for the short one but modded the air box so all the pipe work is
3"diameter.
I got the kit from direct 4x4 and bought a metre of flexi pipe to suit.
only thing I used from the kit was the snorkel and rubber hose.the rest was all my own doing.:thumb2
 
eh ? The cross sectional area does NOT change for a fixed perimeter ! It may restrict good flow though, is that what you meant ?

Not quite, if you have a 3" round pipe and squash it into an oval the cross section decreases as I posted. I had to work it out for a container we were building one day and was amazed at how much taller we had to make it so it could hold the same amount of fluid..

sent from my phone, sorry for any typo's.
 
Am I right by saying, in the inside of the wing, the tubing can be cheapy flexy stuff, as long as its waterproof, it dont need to be fancy :nenau

I was hoping to come out the fat side of the airbox (the bit that faces the wing) cutting it open.

then running flexi through until the short snorkel meets :thumb2
 
from a birds eye view (excuse my bad picture)

A = airbox

B = pipe

C = snorkel

:nenau
 

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As the point of a snorkel is to keep the water out, I guess the most important part is making sure every joint is completely watertight? This would lead to having as few joints as possible and making sure they can't vibrate to break the seal. Also the top fitting needs to stop the water being blown in.

A second issue is getting the airflow as good as possible, so again, as few joints and no angles, all smooth curves. :nenau

I am struggling to understand why they vary in cost from under £100 to the Safari at over £300. What can be that different?

Ian
 
I am struggling to understand why they vary in cost from under £100 to the Safari at over £300. What can be that different?

Quality mainly, But the 300 one won't be 3 times better than the 100.
 
Quality mainly, But the 300 one won't be 3 times better than the 100.

Amen, I like the sound of that :D




GET READY FOR ANOTHER SILLY QUESTION
The piping doesent actually run up the tubing of the snorkel does it?
it stops at the bottom of the snorkel :nenau
 
Not quite, if you have a 3" round pipe and squash it into an oval the cross section decreases as I posted. I had to work it out for a container we were building one day and was amazed at how much taller we had to make it so it could hold the same amount of fluid..

sent from my phone, sorry for any typo's.

Well I'll be a dullard :doh I never really worked it out but have obviously applied a womans logic to it and failed :eek:
I'm off for a pint to drown my feminine side :thumbs
 
Got me scratching my head as well.:lol
I would have assumed that if you just change the shape from a round tube to and oval tube of the same overall diameter the volume would still be the same:nenau
 
Got me scratching my head as well.:lol
I would have assumed that if you just change the shape from a round tube to and oval tube of the same overall diameter the volume would still be the same:nenau

No, the circumference remains the same, ie perimeter. The area reduces.

If you reduce the height of the elipse as low as possible, then it would be squashed and nothing would get through, try squeezing your flexible brake hoses.

The formula for area of a circle is... Pi r squared or Pi x r x r. where r is the radius.
The formula for area of an elipse is Pi x a x b Where a is the radius of the vertical component, and b is the radius of the horizontal component.

For the elipse, reducing say the height will increase the width but not by enough to maintain the same area.

To help with understanding this, think of a soap bubble, it has the minimum surface area, but the largest volume, hence it keeps it's shape.

Rustic
 
The largest Cross Sectional Area for a given perimiter is a circle. Any deviation from a circle reduces the CSA. Ie if you take a tube and squash it flat the perimiter has not changedd but it will not flow much air.
Given Alex's diesel motor would suck harder than a lady of ill repute I don't think that a free flowing inlet will greatly reduce his 0-60 time.
Nicely sealed jionts would be prefferable but not a show stopper unless really deep water for extended periods.
I have box section tubes and pushfit joints under my wing and don't notice any difference on my Troll.
 

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